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Toro 1128 Starting

Discussion in 'Truck & Equipment Repair' started by gravelyguy, Dec 18, 2010.

  1. gravelyguy

    gravelyguy Member
    from Indiana
    Messages: 92

    I have a brand new Toro 1128 OXE. It is a real pain to start with the pullstart. You have to pull lightly to get the piston passed TDC and then give it a tug to get it going. I thought the engine might loosen up, but at 10+ hours already nothing has changed. I tried running thinner full synthetic oil and it didn't help.

    The other day the paws snapped off in the pull start and it had to be replaced. The delaer agreed that is was hard to pull and they tried adjusting the valves, no difference.

    They are going to call Briggs next week to ask them, but they think that it may be due to the size of the engine.

    I have always hated Briggs, not many choices with snowblowers:mad:


    misc 114.jpg
  2. leon

    leon Senior Member
    Messages: 872

    snow blower trouble

    Your synthetic oil is going to be cold and thick too


    Assuming they checked the flywheel position, and flywheel gap, and the ignition sequence is

    at T.D.C., choke is working fine, and the fuel valve is fully open if it has one and the tank

    inlet is not plugged with crap from the new tank- the plastic tanks sometimes have large

    lengths of plastic left in them after they are blow molded, (been threre done that PIA)

    and the fuel line has no junk in it (we have an original Troy Built Rototiller

    that was always giving us fits until I saw that it had NO fuel filter and when

    I spliced in the fuel filter this last year it runs fine now)

    A small Hatz or Lomabrdini deisel with recoil start automatic decompression would work fine, but the

    salamander trick is less costly as you have a new motor and snow blower and it is just a very

    cold engine.

    And as I hope they readjusted the valves with the engine cold I hope;

    and as its a high compression engine with

    no compression release the only thing that will help is heat from a small

    propane or kerosene salamander.

    The minute that engine is stopped the components starting sucking in

    the cold temps and every inch of the engine is cold right up to the cylinder head

    and as its cold the bearings are not able to spin quickly when the crank is rotated

    with the starter rope.

    We have this issue with a big

    14 horse power horizontal Kohler

    on a Toro walk behind mower and it

    cools down so quickly that its a bear

    to start.

    There is nothing wrong with the engine at all

    as its just a big high compression engine without the

    automatic or manual decompression and converting

    it to electric start is too much money for the time its used.

    Ten minutes with the salamander and it will fire like

    its 90 degrees out.

    They have to reset the valves back to spec., when its cold

    and you can use ether if you have to, but the small salamander

    is easier to do by simply heating it up. The magnetic block heaters

    are worthless in this respect as you need to heat up the entire engine.

    They have the small propane salamanders

    on sale at Tractor Supply Co.

    By the time you have the 110 volt electric starter

    kit installed you would have much less money invested

    in a propane salamander and 20 pound tank; of course

    if you use bottled propane for anything its a win win as

    long as you have access to an outlet for the salamander

    or a generator.

    I would not want to use "Ether"as its a new motor,

    but its an option.

    My first thought is setting the plug at 25 thousandths gap

    as it will fire just bit sooner, and using Seafoam in the gas

    and buying high octane fuel. I use high octane in all my engines.

    I dont know if you would want to bother with taking the belt cover off

    and removing the belt, starting the engine and letting it warm up,

    then stopping it to put the belt back on it to use it.

    I know my answer is not much help, but I have been using the same salamander for

    heating up my engines and deicing stairs and rain gutters for 16 years now and its a time saver and

    a shoulder saver too as I use it on my firewood processor the year round to heat up the

    25 gallon hydraulic tank and the Honda engine that powers it.
    Last edited: Dec 18, 2010
  3. White Gardens

    White Gardens 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,665

    You need more wesport
  4. gravelyguy

    gravelyguy Member
    from Indiana
    Messages: 92

    I know that heating it will help it start, but I don't have access to heat it while I'm out all day. I've been leaving it running all day and night for the last 3 storms. I turned it off for lunch and when I went to start it again is when I broke the pull start.

    This is a POS design IMO. Why no compression release?

    Like New Toro 1128 OXE for sale:rolleyes:
  5. leon

    leon Senior Member
    Messages: 872

    snow blower

    I wish I had a better answer but the engineers simply design and spec. the machine and the Toro buyer found this B+S engine and bought it for price.

    You will be money ahead if they will give you your money back or a portion of it and-
    A small BCS will cost more money with a 24 inch blower but the indirect gear drive and engines either gas or diesel are excellent machines and the single and two stage BCS snow blowers are gear driven and over built and designed for use in the Swiss alps mountain country.

    I am genuinely sorry for your trouble. I guess you will have to lay in a supply of ether and sea foam.

    As you are not that far from earth tools in kentucky I would be beating feet to thier shop if they have a small BCS and a blower or have it shipped to you.

    He carries the Kohler/Lombardini engines which have the decompression I am unsure if its manual with the pull wire or automatic though, and I know my suggestion does not help you now but a small salamander and even the smallest generator wil work for you.

    I carry the Coleman Powermate around in my truck when I need to and it fires right up for me as long as I shut the fuel off and starve it to shut off and I Have had zero problems except for using a squirt of ether when its left in a cold shed with a concrete floor after being left for 2 weeks unused.

    I know you should not have to spend the money for the propane salamander or gen set believe me, but owning them for 16 years on my part made life a lot easier for me. I can vouch for the Coleman Powermate and its reliability as it is what I use.

    The fellow that owns www.EarthTools.com does not let a machine out of its sales room before it is run for several hours with the attachments as he does not wish to see his customers have problems; he also fixes the problem before the customer take ownership of the 2 wheel tractor and attachments.

    I have no affiliation with earth tools or BCS tractors.
    Last edited: Dec 18, 2010
  6. White Gardens

    White Gardens 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,665

    The BCS is a good idea. Isn't that just a tiller with the swivel handle and multitude of attachments such as a sweeper, rotary plow, cylce mower, etc...
  7. leon

    leon Senior Member
    Messages: 872

    snow blower troubles

    The BCS and Grillo are not just tillers and they can use a herd of attachments including single and two stage snow blowers, rotary mowers, sickle bars, flail mowers, mini hay balers, powered carts to make a 4 by 4 tractor, sweepers, fertiliser spreaders which can be used for salt and sand, rotary plows, and rototillers as well as rear seeders and many other attachments like stone burriers, sprayers, spaders, wood chippers, etc.

    You can also purchase a sulky to ride behind it while blowing snow or mowing.
    Last edited: Dec 18, 2010
  8. leon

    leon Senior Member
    Messages: 872

    snow blower

    Thinking more about this I would see if you can trade that engine for the smallest Briggs and Stratton V twin and you will have fewer problems. The self contained Briggs Vanguard series have an excellent reputation and decompression.

    I would seriously suggest that you are experiencing what is referred to as the "nozzle effect" where the carburatuer is icing up as due to the cold and the heat transfer.

    I always starve my engines dry in all weather even though I use Sea Foam.
  9. gravelyguy

    gravelyguy Member
    from Indiana
    Messages: 92

    That BCS looks like a pretty handy tool. I've never heard of them.

    I have a converter that plugs into the 12 volt in the truck, but I think I would be over doing it if I try to electric start the snow blower.

    Thanks for the all the info.
  10. White Gardens

    White Gardens 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,665

    Ya the BCS is a pretty neat machine. I was highly considering getting one for the work I do, but I decided on a mini-skid instead. I figured I get just that much more versatility out of a mini-skid than I would have with the BCS.

    That might be something to consider too, a mini with a blower, or a snow blade. Just all depends on where you are using it.
  11. leon

    leon Senior Member
    Messages: 872

    snow blower

    greetings, if you have a 12 volt to 110 volt inverter you can start it that way qiuickly with the 110 volt starter motor option for the briggs engine- you just have to find out from briggs if your model can have the 110 volt starter motor for it- they do kick ass!! as Kenny Cartman would say.

    If you look up your engine model, serial number, type and series that will lead you to the parts section and it wil tell you if this motor can be fitted with the electric starter we have one on our troy built and its saves on the arms and shoulders for sure.

    I have to log off now
  12. mayhem

    mayhem PlowSite.com Addict
    from Peru MA
    Messages: 1,016

    Looks like the starter right there in the pic.

    I have kept my simplicity 860 in the basement lately so when I needed it I just wheeled it out of the 65 degree room into the 5 degree weather...started on the second pull, easy as pie. Did the job, shut it down and left it outside. Went to start it the next day and I couldn't pull that cord hard enough to even think about getting it going...plugged in the starter motor and BOOM!...sucker fired right up.

    On a blower that size you could probably mount a small battery and run the starter right off it, no plug.
  13. leon

    leon Senior Member
    Messages: 872

    snow blower tantrums

    Your right he does have an 110 volt AC electric starter!!
    I did not see it at first as our plug in point is on the top of the engine cowling on our older troy built 2 stage.

    All you need is an extension cord and a Coleman Powermate or something simular as they sip fuel.

    The smallest Honda gen. sets will fit in the car or truck cab but I would be worried about the fumes if you leave it in the car or truck for extended periods with the windows shut.

    My apologies to you for not noticing it sooner.:waving:
  14. leon

    leon Senior Member
    Messages: 872

    snow blower

    I had forgotten that you mentioned you had a inverter- all you need now is a 12 gauge extension cord and a a portable GFCI The Hubble portable GFCI is the best and the industry
    leader, they cost about 64 dollars and change at an authorised Hubble electrical supplies retailer.
  15. gravelyguy

    gravelyguy Member
    from Indiana
    Messages: 92

    My dealer called me and told me that they talked to Briggs and they said to give me a new engine block. They will use my engine internals, carb, etc. I really hate the idea of the dealer doing a total rebuild. They are admitting the engine has a problem. I say new engine.

    This thing is brand new and cost $2000!
  16. gravelyguy

    gravelyguy Member
    from Indiana
    Messages: 92

    The new engine block fixed it. It starts just like any other engine that size now. Briggs must know there was a problem becuase they didn't argue with the dealer and told them exactly what needed to be done.