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To repair or not to repair

Discussion in 'Truck & Equipment Repair' started by Motoman242, Jul 29, 2009.

  1. Motoman242

    Motoman242 Junior Member
    Messages: 3

    Hey guys, I have been watching this site for a long time now and I thought that I would get your input on the matter. My uncle has given me a 94 F350 with a service body for free. It runs and drives but needs its share of work. It has been sitting for about a year now and has become a little rusty underneath, but no rot...yet. The frame is still solid, but the utility body is not. The floor of the service body is gone and some of the boxes are rusted out. It needs rear brake pads (the drums are good) and wheel cylinders. Now for the worst part....one of the spark plugs on the drivers side of the motor (a 460FI) had the insulator blown out of it and just the base of the spark plug is rusted in there. My uncle put a bolt in the plug so that there wasn't a hole left in the motor. This is the reason why he parked the truck in the first place.

    Now I have been told to soak it with PB Blaster for awhile, and then heat the cylinder head around the spark plug and use an easy out to get it out. Any thoughts on this? I was also planning on masking off the motor and the rest of the truck and sandblasting around the spark plug first to get it clean, and soak it and heat it. Do you guys think this will work? Has something like this ever happened to any of you guys, and if so, how did you fix it? If I can get that fixed, then everything else will be easy.

    The truck on has 69000 miles on it and he just had the transmission redone before the insulator blew out of the spark plug. The cab and everything are still in awesome shape and has minimal rust. It also comes with a 8' Fisher conventional plow (and I can get a complete other one for free). If I can get it fixed, my plans would be to do some residential plowing with it for some friends and neighbors.
     
  2. 2COR517

    2COR517 PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 7,115

    Sounds like it's definitely worth fixing up. Probably get rid of the service body and put a flat bed on. As for getting the plug out, do some searching. It sounds like you can still get a socket on the hex. You're in good shape, just need some patience. Heat the PLUG cherry red, as quickly as possible. Spray some cold water on the plug. The idea is that the rapid heating and cooling will help break the corrosion between the plug and head. After doing this several times over the course of a couple hours, spray some Fluid Film or PB around the threads. Come back in a couple of days and it should come out pretty easy. Make sure your socket has a good grip on the plug, and a nice long bar so you can apply nice steady, strong pressure. Keep us posted.
     
  3. scottL

    scottL PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,603

    The plug on a ford breaking off in the cylinder is actually common on many of the engines. Last I checked there are kits available for just this issue. Your local ford service could probably name the kit for you.
     
  4. Motoman242

    Motoman242 Junior Member
    Messages: 3

    well, I am definitely going to give it shot. I have plenty of time to do it and almost all of the resources available. I posted a few pictures of it so you guys can take a look at it.

    I cut the rear gas tank out of it yesterday and when it stops raining, I am going to cut the front tank out too. Once I get that out, I am cutting the service body off. Once that's all done, it's on to the spark plug issue. I think once I do that, I am going to take off the hood and the LH fender to gain easier access.

    I have a pretty good plan for the truck, but lack of funds is what's really stalling me at the moment. Let me know what you guys of the pics!

    DSCF0240.jpg

    DSCF0234.jpg
     
  5. mvhauler

    mvhauler Senior Member
    Messages: 170

    Doesn't look too bad. I've had worse shape vehicles in my time. Like mentioned before, a flat bed or maybe a good pickup box can be found for little money. Good unit at the right price to start with. You can afford to throw a few dollars at it.
     
  6. no lead

    no lead PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,308

    i would asses the motor first. if it cant be saved i would look at all of the options. new motor/flat bed/gas tanks/etc. then look at stripping plow off and a better truck. which way will be cheaper in the long run? because something if "free" doesn't make it good.
     
  7. Flipper

    Flipper PlowSite.com Addict
    from CT
    Messages: 1,180

    That a relatively easy fix for a common problem. As stated above you should be able to heat and remove the plug then repair the threads as needed. Even if you had to remove the head it would still be well worth it if the frame and cab of the truck are solid.
     
  8. 2COR517

    2COR517 PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 7,115

    Did the dog pee on all the tires, or are the hubs leaking? The service body looks pretty decent from here, I bet you can get a few bucks for that. I would agree with removing the fender. You will get that time back working on the engine. Depending on how the hood hinges are attached, you might be able to leave the hood on.

    Keep us posted how it goes.
     
  9. polarvend

    polarvend Junior Member
    from Alaska
    Messages: 24

    Not a bad looking truck I have a 93 just like it with the 460 gas hog but great for plowing with the c6 trans,
    anyway when I bought it the emmisions pipes that get bolted into the back of the exaust manifold had broken off due to rust so I wound up having to make my own fabricated deal for it because the ford parts were not available, and livivng in Alaska we don't have well any emmisions testing where I am so its not a big deal.
    My service bed is rusted also, I had thought about taking it off but those cabinets are awesome for your tow straps and tools and tire chains, etc.
    All in all it sounds like you have a pretty decent truck watch it though if its drivable now and you are almost at your mechanical limit do yourself a favor find a shop to take it to and do the spark plug problem.
    I almost had to have mine towed to a shop before but then again time or money!
     
  10. Flipper

    Flipper PlowSite.com Addict
    from CT
    Messages: 1,180

    C6 in a 93? I think the C6 was out of F350s by 90 0r 91.

    My 92 and every one I have owned newer then that has/had E4ODs.
     
  11. Milwaukee

    Milwaukee 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,180

    They stop in 96 or 97 that what I read at ford truck forum.
     
  12. polarvend

    polarvend Junior Member
    from Alaska
    Messages: 24

    C6

    I had one in my 91 f350 with a 460,
    and I am pretty sure its the same in my 93 460 with a c6.
    Jeff:waving:
     
  13. Motoman242

    Motoman242 Junior Member
    Messages: 3

    well, I am currently waiting for my uncle to get his 45 gallon diesel fuel tank out of the service body and then I am going to move it to a garage where I can start doing the work. But you guys have convinced me that it's worth fixing, so I am going to have at it.

    The service body is pretty much junk. The bottoms of the cabinets are rusted out and the center floor isn't in very good shape either. Also, the bumper on it is rusted and bent. I am probably going to put a flat bed on it unless I can find a decent bed for a good price.

    And no, a dog didn't pee on the tires! it's just PB blaster that I sprayed on the lugs. I sprayed almost all of the nuts and bolts on the truck just to be sure they aren't locked up. Have any of you guys ever used the automatic trans fluid and acetone combo as a penetrant? I read good things about it.
     
  14. 2COR517

    2COR517 PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 7,115

    Good idea to spray stuff down. I have used the ATF/Acetone combo with good results.

    If you have the time, Fluid Film is also a very good penetrant. It's not quite as fast as a PB or ATF, but it does work. And it works very well. It's nice because when you spray it on, it just stays there. You can go over on the weekend, spray everything down, and the FF will work all week. I have actually salvaged some really nasty tools with FF.
     
  15. bigbadbrad

    bigbadbrad Senior Member
    Messages: 835

    where do you find ff in maine?
     
  16. 2COR517

    2COR517 PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 7,115

    John Deere dealer should have it. Their website also has a locator. Threre's a guy in PI with it. I don't know just where you are in The County.

    http://www.fluid-film.com/shop/index.html
     
  17. basher

    basher PlowSite Fanatic
    from 19707
    Messages: 8,992

    Maine as succeeded from the union?
     
  18. 2COR517

    2COR517 PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 7,115

    Mainers fondly refer to Aroostook county as The County. Look at a map and you'll understand why. I believe it is as large as Rhode Island. Which is neither a road, nor an island. Discuss.
     
  19. basher

    basher PlowSite Fanatic
    from 19707
    Messages: 8,992

    Rhode was the the oldest Oceanid, a daughter of Tethys and Oceanus.

    Oceanus give her the entire American continent (including north and south America) the area was known as Rhode's Island (a printing error in 1710 dropped the 's and it never reappeared) as a graduation present. Unfortunately by the early 1700's divorce settlements and gambling debts had reduced her holding to a sliver of it's former self . She lost the remainder in a craps game with some early settlers and the rest is in the text books.
     
  20. 2COR517

    2COR517 PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 7,115

    Paging Warren...........

    There's a guy wearing pleated khakis and loafers who needs help with the W/D bars for his Sequoia. He probably needs you to show him how to run his B/C. Again.