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Tips on V-plows

Discussion in 'Commercial Snow Removal' started by ICE CREAM MAN, Dec 15, 2001.

  1. ICE CREAM MAN

    ICE CREAM MAN Junior Member
    from MA
    Messages: 29

    Hello everyone, I am new to this forum. For a while I have been reading posts and have obtained alot of information. I have been plowing for 6 years with straight blades, and this year I have purchased a new fisher v for truck. Can any one give me any tips about this plow? I would appreciate it. THANKS!:rolleyes:
     
  2. JD PLOWER

    JD PLOWER PlowSite.com Veteran
    Messages: 751

    ICM, the biggest tip as far as what you'll most likely need to keep handy is a spare fuse. You should familiarize yourself with how to take your controller apart and what tools you'll need (try not to touch the board inside the joystick) to do the job correctly. For myself this has been the only field repair I've had to do to keep the plow running. Also you should change the fluid yearly (but you probably already knew that one). You'll probably start to notice in the future a "dent" in the back of the moldboard, keep an eye on this becuase it does tend to split some of the weld's in the support bracket. When the plow is'nt mounted on the truck you should store it with the wings retracted.

    Go to the Fisher web site and download the manuals and familiarize yourself with the basics of repair and maintainance, they're not much different than a straight blade.

    BTW what dairy maid do you own?
     
  3. ICE CREAM MAN

    ICE CREAM MAN Junior Member
    from MA
    Messages: 29

    Thanks for the tip JD. I own the Dairy Queen in Bellingham, MA.
     
  4. nsmilligan

    nsmilligan PlowSite.com Veteran
    Messages: 704

    This is the start of my 5th season with a Fisher V. Never had to replace the fuse in the controller (plow came with a spare though).
    The most important thing I think is to make sure you use lots of di-electric compound on the plow plugs, a little corrossion here might not show up the first year, but you will pay for it down the road. Double check the routing of the hoses and make sure the front angle cylinder hoses can't get pinched when the plow is in a V or angled to max, a couple cable ties are all that's needed if your dealer didn't install them. If your a little bit of a DIY'er take the covers off the soleniods and use lots of anti-seize on the little screws that hold them on, if not,I promise a couple seasons down the road you'll be drilling and tapping new holes. because these screws are seized. Try the scoop position, you'll be amazed had how much snow you can move, and how high it will stack!

    Bill
    PS I agree with storing the plow in the off season in a V, but for normal off and on keep it straight and if it's not on asplalt put a board under the foot. on soft ground it can sink making hook up a little bit of a pain.
     
    Last edited: Dec 17, 2001
  5. JD PLOWER

    JD PLOWER PlowSite.com Veteran
    Messages: 751

    nsmilligan, its funny you brought this thread back up today. While plowing a skim off a lot today I just replaced another fuse after about 20 minutes worth of use. This is after having the entire wiring harness replaced and a new controller. I've had this plow going on three years and I have replaced about 7 or 8 fuses in about 200hrs of plowing.
     
  6. nsmilligan

    nsmilligan PlowSite.com Veteran
    Messages: 704

    Is it always the same fuse, there are 2, the one in about the center is for the relay and 3 solenoids, the one close to the edge of the controller is for the other three soleniods, these control the angling of the plow and wings, the first one is for raising, lowering, and V. This is NOT NORMAL you've have to have a soleniod with a short. Do you know what plow position causes the fuse to blow?

    Bill
    PS These little fuses are 5 AMP!!
     
  7. JD PLOWER

    JD PLOWER PlowSite.com Veteran
    Messages: 751

    The problem occurs in ALL POSITIONS, up, down, wings out, wings in, angle or straight. I kinda figured it was'nt normal, but even after having it looked at by several techs in two seperate fisher dealers and numerous calls to the factory the best they could recomend was replacing the harness and/or the controller. I'm not surprised that they recomended this since it was out of warranty at that time. Today I replaced the top fuse and everything was fine, but I only plowed for another hour after that though.
     
  8. nsmilligan

    nsmilligan PlowSite.com Veteran
    Messages: 704

    Not trying to out guess the experts but if what you called the top fuse, in the manual is called F1, that is it's more in the center of the controller, then it controls the primary circuit in the relay ( the black gizmo that is attached to the battery) that closes the relay contacts and starts the pump motor, it's the only circuit that is used in every position (except when the plow is lowering). See if you dealer will change it on a trial basis, he likely won't, becuase most dealers are touchy on electrical stuff. But if it is not always the same fuse that blows then it's really weird!

    Bill
     
  9. JD PLOWER

    JD PLOWER PlowSite.com Veteran
    Messages: 751

    Thanks for the response Bill. The fuse I replaced was the F1 fuse, but in the past I have replaced the bottom fuse (F2) and the first year I replaced the relay but this did'nt seem to help for all that long (if at all). In the morning I plan checking all connections and the wiring to the solenoids (but I've done this in the past with no luck).
     
  10. nsmilligan

    nsmilligan PlowSite.com Veteran
    Messages: 704

    OK the F1 fuse controls the 3 solenoids on the back (truck side), although the cartridges are different, I think all 6 solenoid coils are the same, you only have to disconnect the wires and take off the center nut. I'm sure it's likey an intermitten short, but you might try checking the resistance of each coil ( should be 7 ohms), or buy a new solenoid coil and replace one at a time till the problem hopfully goes away--kinda like I just had to do the find which christmas light in a string was brunt out!
    Good luck.

    Bill
     
  11. Camaro SS Mike

    Camaro SS Mike Junior Member
    from NJ
    Messages: 23

    damn christmas lights!!! they never work right, especially those little sets that get used on the indoor christmas tree. almost every year i buy new sets and throw the old sets away to avoid trouble. my brother bought 8 new sets for his tree, 7 out of 8 worked when he took them out of the packages, the 8th set he wiggled it and they went on, LOL LOL
    sorry to get off topic but when i read about christmas lights i had to chime in, cause i just got done doing my tree over the weekend. Mike
    MERRY CHRISTMAS AND HAPPY NEW YEAR EVERYONE!!!
    GOD BLESS AMERICA!!!
     
  12. ICE CREAM MAN

    ICE CREAM MAN Junior Member
    from MA
    Messages: 29

    :confused: Thanks for your info NS. I am a little confused as to where to apply the anti seize. On which screws? Also overall how would you guys rate the v-plows. I'm waiting for snow to find out how good it is. I plow lots and streets, however I have read on other posts that the snow does not roll of that well. Is this basically comming from the guys who are straight blade die hards or what? Basically what I am getting at is that there should not be a problem plowing streets.

    Happy Holidays Everyone!!!
     
  13. ICE CREAM MAN

    ICE CREAM MAN Junior Member
    from MA
    Messages: 29

    Hey guys I also have one other question. My truck is 2500HD GMC, do I need a ballast to offset the weight of the v-plow.

    Thank You
     
  14. Randy Scott

    Randy Scott Senior Member
    Messages: 142

  15. nsmilligan

    nsmilligan PlowSite.com Veteran
    Messages: 704

    Icecream man, there are 3 plastic covers on the hydro-pak that cover the solenoids. one on the truck side, and an upper and lower one on the front where all the hoses connect. Each cover is held on by two screws were the dimples in the covers are ( I think they are # 10x1/2"), and have 1/4" hex head with a slot.
    I also replaced these 6 screws with the same size allen head screw, because I couldn't find a 1/4" socket small enough on the outside diameter to get on the original screws if the straight screwdriver wouldn't work.
    I haven't noticed any real difference in plowing a road with way it rolls snow off when angled compared to a straight blade, but I know for a fact that there are roads I couldn't have plowed AT ALL, if I didn't have the V position to open the road up! With the plow in the V position the truck will stay straight when opening a road in heavy snow, where the straight blade angled will push the truck sideways, and that usually means shovel time!

    Merry Christmas to all.

    Bill

    PS The Fisher site also has ballast recomendations, I have a tailgate salter and usually carry 500-1000 #'s of salt on back, my 98 GM 2500 does carry the plow better with weight in the back.
     
    Last edited: Dec 22, 2001
  16. ICE CREAM MAN

    ICE CREAM MAN Junior Member
    from MA
    Messages: 29

    Thanks for all the help NS. I'll get to work on that project right after Christmas. I would also like to thanks everyone else for all the good info. Once I finish rigging up the truck with all the lights
    I will post a picture on the site.

    Happy Holidays Everyone!