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throw out bearing or cluth

Discussion in 'Ford Trucks' started by dany, Apr 13, 2002.

  1. dany

    dany Member
    Messages: 89

    In my 75 f-250 the clutch I believe the clutch is now totally gone. But iam not sure. The clutch does not slip at all. What it does is it does not like going into the gears exspecially 2nd to first. When u chumb down on it it does not slip it will just not come out of gear. could this be a throwout bearing problem instead of the clutch inself. A clutch will run me about 209.00 from napa. If it is a throw out bearing how much does one cost. I do realize the throw out bearing has a slim chance of being the culpret. to get it to go in and out of gear i have the mechanicial adjustment cranked up now.

    thanks and sorry about the long post

    What does the pressure plate do also?
     
  2. DaveK

    DaveK Senior Member
    Messages: 420

    The pressure plate is on the opposite side of the clutch from the flywheel. I had a pressure plate cause the same problem you are having. A couple springs/pins were broken and it wouldn't disengage.

    Here is an exploded view :
    http://www.howstuffworks.com/clutch2.htm
     
  3. Pelican

    Pelican 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,075

    If you've got the tranny down, it would be silly not to replace everything, Disc, pressure plate and T/O bearing. check your flywheel for bluing from heat, this indicates high spots and it should be cut. It will engage much smoother if cut.

    Just thought of something:

    Before you drop the tranny, check that the t/o bearing fork ends are not worn and jumped the track. That would cause the condition you describe too.
     
  4. dany

    dany Member
    Messages: 89

    how do you check the t/o bearing fork ends with out droping the tranny? is it hard to check or replace and what do u mean by they could have jumped the track.
     
  5. Pelican

    Pelican 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,075

    I don't know your tranny specifically, but these are generic instructions:

    The T/O bearing has a slotted ring on it, or sometimes ball joints with spring clips to hold the clutch fork to the bearing. If either of these get worn, broken or rusted, it can cause the symptoms you describe.

    Remove your adjustment rod and work the clutch fork by hand, it should be smooth on the whole length of travel. There is a collar on the nose of the tranny that the T/O bearing slides on, this can get worn too.

    Next pull off the rubber boot the fork goes through and look at the T/O bearing with a flashlight. The fork should be centered on the bearing evenly, not leaning to one side or the other. If it is, here's your trouble. Pull off the fork to see if it is worn or the T/O bearing is.

    Also inspect the fulcrum point of the fork to make sure the geometry is correct. If this is worn excessively your clutch won't function properly. Some of these fulcrum points are adjustable, if you are out of spec, your clutch won't disengage either.

    If all this stuff checks OK, then your pressure plate is probably broken like Dave suggested. You'll have to remove the items I spoke of to drop the tranny anyways, so the work won't be for nothing.
     
  6. dany

    dany Member
    Messages: 89

    the clutch was fine until i put a 3 inch bodylift on the truck and welded in a exstention piece. Ever since it has been goin down hill. the clutch does not spring all the way back up either it just stays hangin off the floor alittle but if u help it out it will stay at its normail possition.
     
  7. 75

    75 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,382

    Well, 3" body lift and the extension of the linkage could certainly change things.

    Couple questions: Is the piece that has been added to the clutch linkage the correct length, and was that extension added to the correct part of the clutch linkage?

    Also, is there considerably more body "flex" than before the lift kit went on? Since one end of the clutch linkage is up in the cab, and the other down on the frame, a cab that's moving around more than normal can have an effect on things too.
     
  8. dany

    dany Member
    Messages: 89

    the exstenton piece was exactly the right size 3 in. It was included in the kit. and i welded it in the up and down section of the lingage that comes out of the cab.
    I do not believe flex has much to do with it since it will do it goin down a flat straight road and sittin level in the garage.
     
  9. Pelican

    Pelican 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,075

    Rob is right, you've opened up a whole new can of worms here. When you change the geometry of the clutch linkage, anything can happen.

    I've been kicking this around in my head today and I believe you would have to extend the swing arm to the clutch and the adjusting rod too. I think I remember you asking about the pedal problem before. I believe your pedal is going past center of the spring load, this is why the pedal won't return. By lengthening the swing arm, you've changed the amount of travel the clutch pedal will have. You must lengthen the adjusting rod to compensate. I'm still not sure the clutch will work right since the swing arm is working at a different radius now.

    It might be easier to find a hydraulic or cable clutch linkage and adapt it to your truck, these would compensate for the lift kit much more easily.

    By the way, you might want to reconsider your signature...;)
     
  10. dany

    dany Member
    Messages: 89

    i exstended the lincage up in down were else do i need to exstend it ? How long of a piece should i add? Iam about ready to just get read of the body lift any way and just do a flip flop the shackels in the rear and buy some positive arch springs for the front. This body lift is causin nothin but problems for me. One good thing is that its a lot easier to work on stuff now.
     
  11. mud_man93

    mud_man93 Member
    from maine
    Messages: 49

    when i was using danys truck and it was tiped up on the banking i had no problem shifting it but when i was on flat ground it would not work
     
  12. Phil Egnatz

    Phil Egnatz Junior Member
    Messages: 4

    your clutch is shot i would a berfore trying anything else bleed the clutch and a throw out bearing is about 3.00-9.00 at auto zone here well i just packed a 5.0 in my 88 f150 with new clutch and trow out its a pain to take the trow out bering out to do it you need to take the engine tranny or both out i did it befor i put it in after the engine was it the clutch was sticky i stuck to the floor also after repacint if and bleeding it it works like a champ before it was grabby not it is smooth as silk
     
  13. Phil Egnatz

    Phil Egnatz Junior Member
    Messages: 4

    your clutch is shot i would a berfore trying anything else bleed the clutch and a throw out bearing is about 3.00-9.00 at auto zone here well i just packed a 5.0 in my 88 f150 with new clutch and trow out its a pain to take the trow out bering out to do it you need to take the engine tranny or both out i did it befor i put it in after the engine was it the clutch was sticky i stuck to the floor also after repacint if and bleeding it it works like a champ before it was grabby not it is smooth as silk:drinkup: :drinkup:
     
  14. Pelican

    Pelican 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,075

    Dave K, where are you????

    Any hair left?
     
  15. tuna

    tuna Senior Member
    Messages: 488

    Dany ,Your clutch is not shot and there is no bleeder on it its not a hydraulic clutch.Add a piece of steel tubing to the endof the adjusting rod where it contacts the fork you will have to experiment with lengths and adjustment untill you get it right.You best bet is get rid of that dam body lift they are nothing but trouble.