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Those Dang brake lines!

Discussion in 'Chevy Trucks' started by BPK63, Aug 22, 2012.

  1. BPK63

    BPK63 Senior Member
    from CT
    Messages: 244

    First of all do they make a pickup that doesn't rust out brake lines? Blew a rear on my 92 K1500. By the looks of underneath I need to replace everything in the rear to the front including wheel cylinders. Doesn't look like those bleeders are gonna move. Anybody have any advice I would appreciate it. At least I don't need this thing until the snow flies.
  2. crazyboy

    crazyboy Senior Member
    from NJ
    Messages: 296

    PB Blaster everything!
  3. GSS LLC

    GSS LLC Senior Member
    Messages: 637

    cut the lines by the fittings and use a socket on a ratchet to get them off. a lot easier than fighting a wrench/line wrench and youre replacing them anyways. pb blaster everything. buy a line bending tool so you dont kink the lines when you bend them.
  4. BPK63

    BPK63 Senior Member
    from CT
    Messages: 244

    I have a bending tool and flare set. Can anybody tell me what the size of that line is to the two rear wheels and the one going up to the front? Looks like 2 different sizes. Also looking at stainless so I don't have to revisit this in 2 years.
  5. Holland

    Holland Senior Member
    Messages: 605

    I buy a coated line. Cheaper then stainless and it holds up well. Just cut a section out and take it to the parts store with you. I cant remember the sizes off hand. And by flare set i really hope you mean DOUBLE flare!! Thumbs Up
  6. BPK63

    BPK63 Senior Member
    from CT
    Messages: 244

    Yeah I mean double flare. It's just a pain to get a good flare unless you have a very expensive tool. I have the typical tool that comes in a small case. I stopped at my local hole in the wall parts store asking if they have a source for stainless lines and he showed me this Cunifer stuff he carries. He said it won't rust and it's very easy to bend. I guess I'll go with that.
  7. RLM

    RLM PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,270

    We use some type of copper alloy, probably what your refering to. Brake lines are a constant problem on the Chevy's. I guess Dodge has standard stainless lines, I'm told. One of the shops I use keeps up on all the new technology that comes out, he has a vinal line for transmission lines now, never rusts, would be nice to see a similiar product for brake lines in the future.
  8. crabbybob

    crabbybob Junior Member
    from 01440
    Messages: 27

    I just replaced 3 brake lines on my 2004 Silverado. I tried to buy pre-made lines but couldn't find any with the correct size/thread connectors so I bought a roll of 1/4" brake line and a cheap double flair tool. The flairs aren't pretty, but they're working.

    One of the bleeder screws was rusted too badly to get off without damaging it. Replacing it was expensive. For some reason the parts list calls for a coarse thread screw but the screw on the truck has a very fine thread. I tried all the parts stores in town, including the dealer, but no one sold them individually. I had to buy an assortment pack of bleeders to get 2 matching screws. The pack cost $20!

    Take all the parts with you when you go to the store to make sure the new parts match up.
  9. brad96z28

    brad96z28 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,526

    I Only use nickel copper lines now.
  10. Snowzilla

    Snowzilla Senior Member
    from Iowa
    Messages: 397

    I blew out rear brake lines so many times I can't remember on an '89. Seems like when you suddenly need to hit the brakes in traffic is when mine bursted. The last 2x I replaced the line I cheated and skipped routing through the orignal path because it was too much work. I finally sold the truck.
  11. 2COR517

    2COR517 PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 7,115

    Nickel copper x2. The lines across the axle are 3/16. The line coming down the frame is 1/4. If the nuts won't come out of the wheel cylinders, just replace the cylinders. $10 each, and they come with a new bleeder at no charge.
  12. mercer_me

    mercer_me PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 6,358

    X3 on the Nickel Copper lines. That's the only brake line I will use now. I also agree on replacing the wheel cylinders.
  13. BPK63

    BPK63 Senior Member
    from CT
    Messages: 244

    I got the nickel copper stuff and replaced the line coming from the front. Took me half a day with putting the right bends in it with a bender so it conformed to the curves of the frame and zip tied it all over. Got 3 footers for the axle and replaced the wheel cylinders and all the brake hardware and parking cable while I was there. This thing is a rust bucket but saves me tons of time clearing my driveway when it snows. It will be up on stands a couple more weeks before I have time to finish but basically new everything back there and then I'll check the front. Thanks for the info.
  14. 2_Djinn

    2_Djinn Senior Member
    Messages: 157

    Ugh, crawling around getting ready to change my starter I noticed how shot every line on my truck is ...better get it in to the shop before plow season.
  15. marylandbigb

    marylandbigb Member
    Messages: 86

    go to inlinetube.com you can get a stainless set fairly cheap all pre bent
  16. brad96z28

    brad96z28 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,526

    If you want to blow 300 or more I bet.