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Thermocoupler install

Discussion in 'Ram Trucks' started by TEX, Dec 30, 2007.

  1. TEX

    TEX Senior Member
    Messages: 606

    For anyone who cares

    Wear safety glasses

    Gather all the tools you will need.

    Drill
    proper size bit
    tap
    grease
    EGT probe (thermocoupler)

    NOTE: In some pics you will see 2 thermocouplers, in this write up im talking about the pre turbo one in the exhaust manifold.


    Locate the spot that you want to put the probe.

    [​IMG]

    If you have a punch you can tap a small spot where you want to drill for the bit to sit in. If not just start drilling.

    [​IMG]

    After drilling for a bit and BEFORE you drill all the way threw start the engine. This will blow out any shavings.

    After drilling threw leave the engine running. Get the tap and put a bit of grease on the end of it. Start threading the hole and be sure to thread the entire hole deep enough. Just bc the tip of the tap is threw the hole dosent mean that the threads are actualy deep enough. you can shut off the engine after you finish tapping.

    Try and thread the probe fitting in for test fit.

    [​IMG]

    If it works your done. Just put the probe in and snug everyhing up, connect the wires, srink the heat shrink and bam.

    [​IMG]

    If i forgot something im sorry. Anyone else feel free to give pointers that may help.:thumbsup
     
  2. ProSeasons

    ProSeasons Senior Member
    Messages: 624

    Okay. Now do the other five cylinders and then drill the drive pressure ports next to the thermocouple holes.

    THEN your'e done.:D
     
  3. TEX

    TEX Senior Member
    Messages: 606

    im guessing your joking...................
     
  4. exmark1

    exmark1 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,321

    I hope so... becuase what sense would that make!
     
  5. Camden

    Camden PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 6,598

    That's one clean engine, how many miles do you have on it? Looks new...
     
  6. TEX

    TEX Senior Member
    Messages: 606

    have 20,500 on it now. got it in march of 06.............
     
  7. Camden

    Camden PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 6,598

    She's not even broken in yet. I would quit running Amsoil though and switch to Rotella if you're going to keep that truck for awhile :waving:
     
  8. TEX

    TEX Senior Member
    Messages: 606

    and what did you base that statement on?
     
  9. Camden

    Camden PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 6,598

    I drank the kool aid and tried some when it first came out. I was told I wouldn't have to change the oil for some ungodly amount of time (like 15-20,000 miles or something like that). Well, after bypassing my regular maintenance schedule of 5000 miles I started to get nervous and I ended up changing the oil at 7500 miles and I couldn't have made a better decision.

    You should've seen the condition of the oil. It was more black than crude oil and it didn't drain out of my oil pan - it FELL out! I couldn't believe I had done that to my truck and more importantly I couldn't believe I got talked into using it.

    I easily took 50000 miles OFF the life of the engine by using it just 1 time for 7500 miles.

    You know what else is a big kick in the nutz? I paid triple the amount per gallon than I would've paid if I had just stuck with Rotella.

    I mentioned my problems to the salesman who suckered me in and he had some lame excuse that the oil was "cleaning" my engine...blah blah blah. What a joke, he had an excuse for everything.

    Sorry for the long reply but talking about Amsoil gets me all fired up. Bottom line is that I wouldn't run that junk even if I got it for free.
     
  10. SnoFarmer

    SnoFarmer PlowSite Fanatic
    from N,E. MN
    Messages: 8,489

    Good advice..;)

    I didn't think ALoil was certified for oil-burners.....
     
    Last edited: Jan 2, 2008
  11. TEX

    TEX Senior Member
    Messages: 606

    how many miles were on the truck when you switched over. diesel oil is black period. mine turns black right after i change it no matter what oil i use. and yes if you have a dirty engine to start with it will clean out the gunk i have seen it. and i dont think a company that has been around since the 70's and still going would be here if they were selling crap oil.

    maybe there is more to it. bc on my 06 you can go 15K on reg oil and 7500 for sever service. thats from dodge/cummins. amsoil is a great oil and there is no way that it can turn to stright crap without something else being wrong. it doesent just break down and turn to tar in 7500 miles.

    did you try and find out why it did that or if there were any other factors to play?

    everyone has an opinion and if you dont like amsoil thats fine with me. im just wondering what happend in your case. you should have saved a sample and taken it to the person who sold it to you and have it tested.
     
    Last edited: Jan 3, 2008
  12. TEX

    TEX Senior Member
    Messages: 606

    i guess we should start a new thread instead of using the EGT probe one.............
     
  13. SnoFarmer

    SnoFarmer PlowSite Fanatic
    from N,E. MN
    Messages: 8,489

    lol I hear ya....;)
    I'm surprised Mr delete has not removed our off topic conversation:waving:


    Anyway... Nothing personal.......


    FYI,
    http://www.weareoil.com/amsoil_api_licensing.htm

    Why Some AMSOIL Synthetic Motor Oils Are API Licensed And Some Are Not

    1. Full API licensing puts AMSOIL INC. in an inflexible position. Not only would we find it necessary to buy formula components from specific vendors and be at the mercy of their pricing, we would not be able to make any major improvements to the lubricant formulas for 2 to 3 years, without new testing and the associated costs. To solve this problem, the API must establish basestock interchange guidelines for synthetic basestocks just as they have for other basestocks, as well as develop interchange guidelines for other components too.

    2. Full API licensing would impose strict phosphorous limitations on our motor oils. This limitation is the main reason most AMSOIL motor oils are not API licensed. AMSOIL INC. currently disagrees with this limitation and feels strongly that the reduced wear and longer oil and additive life achieved through higher levels of properly balanced phosphorous content is more important than the arbitrary API phosphorous limit that does not give any consideration to the NOACK volatility level of an oil. When chemistry is developed that will provide superior engine wear protection with reduced phosphorous levels, or Noack volatility considerations are put in place, then the phosphorous level will become a non-issue.

    Warranties And API Licensed Motor Oils

    Fortunately, the law does not allow manufacturers to "void your warranty" simply because of the brand of oil you use, the specifications it meets or the miles you drive between oil changes. To be specific, they cannot deny to fix your broken radio, faulty valve or cracked piston because you used an AMSOIL non-API licensed motor oil, or because you've gone more than 3000 miles since your last oil change. Denial of warranty coverage must be specifically due to an oil related failure. All courts of law will find against any manufacturer or dealership that tries these warranty shenanigans. If any automobile dealership insinuates that your warranty will be void if you use AMSOIL products or utilize extended drain intervals, let AMSOIL INC. know the name of the Dealership, the address, the owner's name and the name of the employee that made this statement. Mail to:

    AMSOIL INC.
    Attention: Technical Services Department
    AMSOIL Building
    Superior, WI 54880
     
    Last edited: Jan 3, 2008
  14. dakotasrock

    dakotasrock Senior Member
    from MN
    Messages: 260


    HAHA Mr. delete.......... that made me laugh
     
  15. SnoFarmer

    SnoFarmer PlowSite Fanatic
    from N,E. MN
    Messages: 8,489

    :rolleyes:lol,,,,,,
    http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html

    Beware the fake API symbol
    Some unscrupulous manufacturers (and there's not many left that do this) will put a symbol on their packaging designed to look like the API symbol without actually being the API symbol. They do this in an effort to pump up the 'quality' of their product by relying on people not really knowing exactly what the proper API symbol should look like. - it looks similar but as long as you remember what to look for, you won't get taken by this scam.
    Amsoil are one of the biggest inadvertent offenders of the fake API symbol. Take a look at one of their labels here on the right. See that little starburst that says "Fuel efficient formula SL-CF"? It can say all it likes, but the fact of the matter is that this is absolutely not an API-certified SL or CF oil. That doesn't mean it doesn't perform to those levels, but for warranty purposes, this is not an API certified product. To be fair, some Amsoil products are API certified and they do have the correct labelling, but their top-tier products do not. The issue of fake API labelling and non-compliance has caused such a stir at Amsoil that they had to put an entire page up on their site dedicated to answering this particular question.
     
  16. TEX

    TEX Senior Member
    Messages: 606

    so ill start a new thread. where should i put it????
     
  17. TEX

    TEX Senior Member
    Messages: 606

    ok go to commerical snow removal for the oil thing............


    and get this one back to EGT probe.
     
  18. Camden

    Camden PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 6,598

    Yeah, nothing I said about Amsoil should've been taken personally by you. As a huge fan of Dodge trucks I hate seeing yours getting abused :D

    You're absolutely right, I should've had that oil sampled but that was honestly the last thing on my mind as I watched it drain from my oil pan that day.

    And sorry for the hi-jack, I thought if you were a new diesel owner you might not know the adverse effects of using Amsoil but it sounds like you've had some success with it which is good to hear.

    :drinkup:
     
  19. ProSeasons

    ProSeasons Senior Member
    Messages: 624

    Joking?

    About what? Why did you put the EGT probe in there in the first place? And knowing what your drive pressure is is just cool!:cool:
     
  20. ProSeasons

    ProSeasons Senior Member
    Messages: 624


    Amsoil is fine. It is diesel certified.

    And diesels don't 'break in'. Their rings seat in the bore.