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Swapping Blades

Discussion in 'Fisher Engineering Discussion' started by mayhem, Oct 27, 2010.

  1. mayhem

    mayhem PlowSite.com Addict
    from Peru MA
    Messages: 1,016

    My 2000-ish 8' MM1 blade is in bad shape. Couple holes in the moldboard, rust forming everywhere. Buddy of mine cut the rust around the holes and welded in some patches for me, but my brother in law says he has 3 spare blades that are all in good shape and I can have my pick...obviously I'll take him up on that offer. Question is, whats involved in swapping blades? I plan on keeping my old one for a backup/spare just in case...at least for now. Eventually my wife will make me get rid of it I'm sure.

    Before I put the new one on I plan on sanding it to roughen up the powdercoat and put a couple coats of paint and wax on there...or maybe encase it in spary on bedliner material.
     
  2. plowguy43

    plowguy43 PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 5,269

    I wouldn't do the bedliner, it won't let the snow roll off very well.

    Its simple to remove the blade- Undo the 3 Pin's on the moldboard- 2 angle cylinder pins, then 1 long/large center pin. Back the headgear and A frame out and your done.
     
  3. justme-

    justme- 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,138

    The powder coat on the blade is better than paint- don;t scuff it just wax it if you feel the need. I bought a HDPE cover sheet (from Buyers) for blade trip plows to put on mine since I had to do some skin repairs as well and the powder coat is long gone from my moldboard. Will be installing this season but I expect good things with evidence from all the poly blades.
     
  4. Big Dog D

    Big Dog D PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,134


    Depending on what series the plow is you may have an issue with the drop leg for the head gear hitting the brace that goes across the A-frame. You may have to have to remove it and weld in a new one.

    Definitely no beadliner spray for the plow face.
     
  5. mayhem

    mayhem PlowSite.com Addict
    from Peru MA
    Messages: 1,016

    Thanks, I'l check it out.

    Why not? My drop in liner is about the slipperiest thing this side of teflon, is the spray on stuff not like that? The rhino sales rep (predicatably) said you can mix it so its very slippery.
     
  6. plowguy43

    plowguy43 PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 5,269

    The easiest way is the way I outlined above- no modifications needed. Spray bedliners are like sand paper in texture.
     
  7. justme-

    justme- 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,138

    If the OP follows Plowguy's directions the A-frame will remain in the lift frame thus jack leg will not have an issue.

    If you change the A-frame with the moldboard you will need to pull the 2 pivot pins there they join, undo the torsion spring there, disconnect the angle cylinders from the hoses and drain the hydraulics (or disconnect the angle cylinders from BOTH sides -the moldboard pin AND the a-frame pin...
    double the work to just swapping moldboards on the end of the a-frame.
     
  8. Big Dog D

    Big Dog D PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,134

    That is correct only so long as he swaps it out with the same series blade. If it's not the same series he will have to swap the A frame and I was just throwing a cautionary note out there, that's all.
     
  9. mayhem

    mayhem PlowSite.com Addict
    from Peru MA
    Messages: 1,016

    Went to my brother in laws place yesterday...he has 3 spare 8' Fisher blades to choose from. Found the one that seemed to be in the best condition and he's going to haul it out of storage for me, pressure wash it, check for any obvious problems we couldn't see and let me knwo when to bring my current setup by his garage to swap the boards. I do not know what series this plow is, other than its NOT a MM2 series...could be a MM1 like mine, could be a 30 year old speedcaster, there are no stickers on it, nor the splat logo. So I guess we'll find out and go from there. All 3 boards he had there had the lower subframe and angle cylinders still attached and there was a complete MM1 headgear in a few pieces laying on top of the blade I chose, so I'm hopeful that the one I'm getting is a MM1. All 3 blades are in better condition than my old one, despite the face that they've been laying face down out in the woods for some time now...all 3 have good, solid coats of paint (not sure if its OEM powdercoat or if they've been sprayed) Startling how quickly a moldboard can rot right through.

    Thanks for the advice guys. Hopefull it'll be hedagear and jack compatible and we cna just pop it on there...if not, well I could probably do with a fluid change anyway, right?
     
  10. plowguy43

    plowguy43 PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 5,269

    Check the very top edge of the plow, they like to rot there the most. Probably because of all the welding that's up there that over the years they rot. Anyways, of the 5 Fishers I've owned, this is the spot that goes first. Good luck.
     
  11. mayhem

    mayhem PlowSite.com Addict
    from Peru MA
    Messages: 1,016

    Do you mean on the upper edge where you might bolt on a snowfoil or on the inseam where its welded together. I didn't see any obvious rust or rot on any seams when I looked it over, but it pays to be sure.

    Mine had alot of the powdercoat come off in small sheets and started rotting first on the back rib weldseams and then smack in the middle of the moldboard. Its been patched together, but its not even and given the opportunity to put a smooth blade on there I'll take it any day.

    I should look into a cover sheet like justme mentioned. Be nice to give Jim@ESI a little business if I can.
     
  12. plowguy43

    plowguy43 PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 5,269

    The metal on the "face" of the moldboard at the very top where it meets the top edge. All the way across the top is where I've found it to rot first. Just give the blade a good check up there- hit it with a hammer.
     
  13. mayhem

    mayhem PlowSite.com Addict
    from Peru MA
    Messages: 1,016

    Gotcha, thanks.