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Super Duty sway bar bushings

Discussion in 'Ford Trucks' started by porabjr, Jun 4, 2013.

  1. porabjr

    porabjr Member
    Messages: 73

    Anyone have any experience replacing these bushings. I don't have access to a press so not to sure it is a job i can/want to do myself. Aside from clunking and darty steering, any issue with just leaving them alone?
     
  2. got-h2o

    got-h2o 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,439

    Sway bar bushings are split in half to slip over the bar, and bolt on with 2 bolts and a u shaped bracket that slides right over the bushing. Super easy job. No pressing involved.

    An old mechanics trick/repair for worn ones is to cut a piece of hose and slip it behind the bracket and tighten it up in there. Works well on cars typically, but on the Ford SD's it doesn't last too long.

    Although there may be more to your clunking. SD's are rattle boxes up front. As much as everyone praises their front ends ruggedness, theres a price to pay for that and they wear out hard parts like crazy. I'd check your front shocks as well as the sway bar end links while you're under there. Chances are they're banging around too.
     
    Last edited: Jun 4, 2013
  3. porabjr

    porabjr Member
    Messages: 73

    Actually just had shocks replaced at all 4 corners and allignment. Had them check ball joints at same time and looked good. i have a feeling that end ling bushings are shot also. Maybe i need a press to replace those?
     
  4. got-h2o

    got-h2o 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,439

    Nope they're the whole replacement arm, bushings installed. They bolt on.
     
  5. MickiRig1

    MickiRig1 PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,617

    The frame mount bushings are split. Just unbolt and slide off, then replace. The links and bushings at each end need replaced. Don't even try to tighten them, just replace them. Make sure you use Silicone grease on the contact points. Unless you like squeaks. This is just one of the things plow trucks need replaced. I don't even think of JuryRigging it. I just replace them!
     
  6. TJS

    TJS PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,339

    To get the old link bushings out I did not have a press at the time. I used an OTC ball joint tool I had and pressed the old ones out, but first I turned an adapter on the lathe. The replacement bushings I used were from energy suspension. Been good ever since.

    [​IMG]
     
  7. got-h2o

    got-h2o 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,439

    ^^^ So if you don't have a $250 press, buy a $5,000 lathe! Lol just messing, good idea.
     
  8. MickiRig1

    MickiRig1 PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,617

    I have a way to get them out. Put the piece in a vise. Take a 1/4 drill bit in a drill motor. Drill down in the rubber on the edge close to the steel. Drill down and let the drill bit circle once around area between the bushing and housing. This breaks loose the bushing. On the second circle pull upward. It walks the bushing right out! I can do 2 in 90 seconds. Grease the bushings and press in with the vise.
     
  9. porabjr

    porabjr Member
    Messages: 73

    Got some prices from local auto parts store. Moog end links w/ bushings installed $85 a side. Store brand made in China $22 w/ bushings installed. Although I prefer made in USA Moog, hard to justify price difference, especially since store brand is lifetime replacement also. For that price seems to make sense to replace the entire end link rather than waste time just doing the bushings.
     
  10. got-h2o

    got-h2o 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,439

    Try Rock auto they have them cheap online
     
  11. porabjr

    porabjr Member
    Messages: 73

    Thanks for reco on Rock Auto, about half the price. Bought the Moogs. Sway bar bushings and drive side link no problem. Of course, no repair can be event free. How does one remove the upper bolt on the pass side. I am hoping there is some alternative to trying to loosen those rusty nuts on the exhaust. Any ideas would be appreciated. thanks