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strobe problem

Discussion in 'Strobe Lighting' started by sangerlawn, Dec 12, 2009.

  1. sangerlawn

    sangerlawn Junior Member
    from indiana
    Messages: 20

    I bought the sho me 4 head strobe kit several months ago. It kept going out and the shop kept repairing it. After the third time fixing it they said the only thing that it could be was a bad strobe light causing the pack to act up. I bought another kit because I wanted to upgrade to a 6 light kit. That was about 2 months ago. I turned them on today and now that kit isn’t working. 3 out of 6 strobes barely flash. I double checked all wiring and then had someone else triple check it for me to make sure I didn’t do anything stupid.

    Could there be something wrong with my truck causing this problem? I also have LED lights on this truck. I never had a problem with the LED and or the light bar. Just the strobe kit
     
  2. fireboy6413

    fireboy6413 Senior Member
    Messages: 396

    You need to be more specific, also their is your first mistake you should of spent the extra money and bought whelen
     
  3. Dissociative

    Dissociative 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,066

    i know a guy with several new whelen 6 outlets.....e-mail me.

    i bet your box is crap.....i hate those kind
     
  4. sangerlawn

    sangerlawn Junior Member
    from indiana
    Messages: 20

    Lol.on the wheelen.

    Not sure how much more specific I can be? When I had a 4 strobe kit 1 channel (2 lights) would not work. Now I have a 6 strobe kit and 1 channel (3 light) don’t work. Tell me what else you need to know and ill do my best to find out

    When I say don’t work I mean you can barely see the light come on. It is coming on but not even close to being bright. In the daylight you cant see them at all. At night you have to turn the lights out and then you can see a faint light come on.
     
  5. fireboy6413

    fireboy6413 Senior Member
    Messages: 396

    The second line is what I needed, since you have been through 2 packs already, first how do you have it wired, and second where is it mounted, and third where did you ground the pack
     
  6. sangerlawn

    sangerlawn Junior Member
    from indiana
    Messages: 20

    I spliced the ground wire. 1 wire goes to the battery then I have the other 2 grounds going to the screws where it is mounted. Screws go into the cab, cab is grounded to frame

    It is mounted under the back seat, there is approximately 3 inches between the box and the seat. I also tried to mount it as close as I can to the front of the seat to get air flow but still may not be enough?

    I wired it according to the paperwork. All numbers matched up on the connectors along with the color codes for wiring on the box. I know I am not very electrically inclined so when doing something like this I have the directions in hand. I did skip out on wire nuts though…..i did use electrical tape….lots of electrical tape….everything is covered. Im gonna try and take a pic for you

    Let me throw something else into the equation. I have a cb in my truck with a 750 watt kicker. When the first pack acted up I asked the shop if my cb could short something out…they said probably not. At this point I am thinking the shop has no clue on whats going on?
     
  7. sangerlawn

    sangerlawn Junior Member
    from indiana
    Messages: 20

    I never attached files before here so not sure if this is going to work. I posted 2 pics showing the screws that the pack is grounded to..plus I have a ground wire going to the battery.

    Other picture is showing the clearance between the pack and the seat. 3 fingers fit comfortably

    stobe.jpg

    strobe 1.jpg

    strobe 2.jpg
     
  8. fireboy6413

    fireboy6413 Senior Member
    Messages: 396

    Ok first, go to home depot and pick up 14-16 Blue butt end connectors, 14-16 Blue ring terminals, 18-22 Red butt end connectors, and 18-22 Red butt end connectors. Netx re do the ground before anything. Take a nife and cut a little piece of carpet out, then take the ground wire throw on a Blue 14-16 round ring terminal, then take a piece of sand paper and clean all the paint and primer of the surface where you cut the carpet. Take the ground and screw it to the area where you cleaned. Next make sure you have the right gauge wire for the power and switch wire, remember the longer you travel away from the power source the larger the wire needs to be, so use 16 gauge wire, take a 16 gauge wire from the batt and run it to the power supply, don't forget to put an inline fuse about 6-8 inches from the batt in that line. Now all the splices you make to join the two wires use the butt connectors, don't just tape them. make sure what ever switch you have, 1 doesn't need to be grounded, and 2 make sure it can handle the load. Oh and do not ground the wire to the supply it self like you did, ground it a few inches from the power supply. You wont need to use this many connectors, but these are the most common you will use so make sure you get a bunch. Also make sure you use the specified fuses that are recommend in the install manual. here are the items I use when installing lights into vehicles

    When running anything in the engine compartment I use these type fuse holder :http://cgi.ebay.com/5X-NEW-Auto-Car...emQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item414542e284

    When tapping into a vehicle fuse for an accessory I use these, this way what I add has a fuse and the existing has a fuse : http://cgi.ebay.com/Lot-of-5-ATC-Ad...emQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item2557c96f01

    Here are the butt end connectors : http://cgi.ebay.com/14-16-Gauge-Vin...emQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item4838979c34

    And here are the ring terminals : http://cgi.ebay.com/100-BLUE-16-14-...emQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item1c0e87b5e5

    Who ever you brought your truck too call them and tell them they are a bunch of retards, they should have put proper connectors on their before letting you leave.:nono::nono::nono::nono:
     
    Last edited: Dec 13, 2009
  9. CityGuy

    CityGuy PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 16,985

    1 other thought and Dissociative feel free to chime in, if it is like the Whelen I have you may be able to figure out or elimenate where the problem is. Unplug all the strobe head leads. Plug them in one at a time and see if each one works independently, If not you have elimenated which one to look at further. I am not sure if that will work with that brad or not. Just what I have read in the Whelen manual that came with my set.
     
  10. fireboy6413

    fireboy6413 Senior Member
    Messages: 396

    I cant see it being a bulb, its something with the pack, my bet is do what i said in the previous post and i think youll solve the problem, it must be the wiring
     
  11. fireboy6413

    fireboy6413 Senior Member
    Messages: 396

    Here is the install instructions in case you don't have them,

    http://www.able2products.com/pdfs/21_t9460_instructions.pdf

    I was reading and noticed if you don't have the control wires spliced properly the power supply goes in to low current/ shut down mode. Take care of those connections and you should be fine
     
  12. Dissociative

    Dissociative 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,066

    that symptom is not because of installation of the pack. The packs has a dead capacitor. Why?..because it's a cheap pack and they don't last.

    If one entire half is dead it's always the pack 9 out of 10.

    Stop using the sho-me junk.
     
  13. Dissociative

    Dissociative 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,066


    this is a good idea.....but not for this problem....this pack is just one of the smallest most cheaply made ones around....Get a good one and re-wire properly. I also do not aprove of the wires run the way you have them. Ground them better FIRST....then replace pack.