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Steel or Poly?

Discussion in 'Commercial Snow Removal' started by wxmn6, May 3, 2001.

  1. wxmn6

    wxmn6 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,037

    I am new to snowplowing. I am planning on to operate my own small plowing business for residental area. The brand of plow that I want to use is 6.5' Meyer snow plow. It is because it weigh 125 pounds less than Fisher 6'9" plow. I have a small pickup truck so that is why I am being careful with the weight of the plow. I am not sure whether to chose steel or poly. I know that the advantage of poly plow is that the snow does not stick to it and that it wont rust and don't need painting. But I noticed that many people stick to steel plow. I wonder why. Is there a disadvantage of poly plow? Which kind of plow, steel or poly, is stronger? Which one last longer? Which one would you suggest?
     
  2. 75

    75 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,382

    Hi wxmn6 - welcome to Lawnsite! A very helpful tool for finding information here is the "Search" feature, click on the word "search" in the top right corner of the screen, then enter the keyword(s) you wish to look for.

    Does Fisher make a poly plow? I took a look at a Fisher brochure and didn't see any poly plows listed. Probably because I'm a welder by trade, I'm inclined to say a steel plow is my preference.

    The term "poly plow" only applies to the moldboard surface itself, the moldboard frame and rest of the plow is still steel and therefore will require painting.

    IMO, the biggest advantage of a steel plow over a poly one is ease of repair - read "welding"! Granted, when used properly (not abused) your plow shouldn't require much in the way of welding repairs, especially if you buy new.

    Poly plows generally weigh as much as, or even slightly more than, their steel counterparts. This is because on a steel plow, the moldboard surface forms part of the structure (in essence, "unibody") while the poly plow moldboard frame has to be strong enough to carry all the load itself, therefore it's built heavier.

    I don't want to start a brand war here, but the reason the Fisher plow is heavier than the corresponding Meyer is because the Fisher is a more robust plow overall - better suited for commercial ("business") use.

    Another important factor in deciding which brand to buy is dealer support - especially after the sale. You want to be sure that your dealer will be there to help you "keep pushing" when the snow is falling. Downtime is costly.

    There's a lot of good people with good info that post here - and while you're waiting for replies give the "Search" feature a try too!
     
  3. Alan

    Alan PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,393

    Pass on the Meyer plow. Go with a 6'8" Sno-Way with the Lexan moldboard skin. You get downpressure with that setup and can scrape much cleaner.
     
  4. MJ

    MJ Senior Member
    Messages: 129

    What type of truck are you going to put it on? How many accounts of what size do you expect to have? That's going to make a lot of difference in the advise you get. You might want to do more research this summer before you decide definitely what type of equipment to use - especially if you'll be doing some plowing as a business. That's not to endorse any brand - just make sure what you get will fit your needs.

    Luck,
    Mick
     
  5. wxmn6

    wxmn6 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,037

    I have a 1989 Toyota Pickup 4WD truck with 22RE engine. This is a down-sized truck. I plan on to plow for about 10 to 15 customers. A Fisher plow would be nice, but the specification for Fisher Light Duty 6'9" steel plow weigh 525#. Thats sound a bit too heavy for my truck and would put alot of stress on my truck, would it? So that's why I thought about Meyer 6.5' plow since it weigh less. I know that it is good idea to buy a snow plow during spring and summer since the price is lower, and it give snowplowers the time to plan and get all questions answered before the arrival of winter. What kind of plow do you think is suitable for me?
     
  6. Michael F

    Michael F Senior Member
    Messages: 203

    No matter what plow you put on the truck it will stress it, it does to all trucks. Toyota makes a good little truck though, I had a '82 4x4, had to get rid of it- to much rot(it was 15+yrs old)still ran perfect though. My advise go with a Fisher, much better plow, go look at both, look at the difference in amount of steel in A-frame alone. Also with that truck make sure to put weight in it and run narrow tires.
     
  7. Deere John

    Deere John Senior Member
    Messages: 410

    Welcome. I don't run them, but for your situation with only one truck and one attachment, I too would look at a Snow-Way first. Particularly for residential work where back blading will be done often. Pump stays with the blade, making your year-round weight less.
     
  8. CT18fireman

    CT18fireman Banned
    Messages: 2,133

    I ran a fisher on my old toyota and just purchase another. The Toyota will hold up to a fisher with normal mantainence. That plow is perfect for the size and power of the toyota. Excellent truck for small driveways. One of the reasons I am going back to one even though I have large fords for commercial accounts.
     
  9. Doc L.

    Doc L. Member
    Messages: 38

    I ran one of those Meyer 6.5 footers for a couple of years awhile back on a S10 and it was a good set up for me as it was 4 cylinder. Nothing heavy duty by any stretch. You have to plow about 95% of the time going forward though as it weighs so little that when backplowing it goes about 1 foot and then rides up so you have about a 2" smooth packed mess to break up, usually by turning around and getting behind it and pushing to the street. It was great for 6' sidewalks though as you just angle it all the way and make one pass. In the right environment it can't be beat, but for residential service with lots of backplowing you may want to plow the very end first to have room to turn around and start pushing to the street.
     
  10. wxmn6

    wxmn6 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,037

    I noticed that Fisher 6'9" plow do not have shoes on bottom of the plow. Meyer does have cast runners on bottom of the plow. Several of driveways that I would be plowing are gravel, so I guess it is important to have something on the bottom of plow to support it, right?
     
  11. 99SDPSD

    99SDPSD Senior Member
    Messages: 118

    My assoicate that I plow with runs a Toyota V6 with a 7' Western on it. The capabilities of the truck impress me.
     
  12. 75

    75 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,382

    Hello again - looking at the Fisher brochure I see the 6' 9" LD series plow listed as being equipped with a polymer cutting edge (Dino - how does that compare to the urethane ones, or is it the same thing?) which I think will tend not to dig into gravel as much as a steel edge. Plus it states that a bolt-on shoe kit is available.

    However, I think you'll find the majority of people don't run with shoes on their plows - even on gravel. (I know I don't!) Until the gravel driveway freezes up to provide a good base, the shoes will tend to dig in. Plus, the shoes work best on a smooth, level surface - something not found very often in the "real world"!

    One trick that helps with gravel/dirt driveways and lots is keeping the blade just above the surface when plowing if it isn't frozen (use the "Hold" rather than "Float" position for this)

    Again, a search under "shoes" here in the snowplowing forum will turn up some good info in previous threads.
     
  13. GeoffD

    GeoffD PlowSite.com Veteran
    Messages: 2,266

    I have some 10' polly blades. When you get a 10' blade the plow is going to heavy either way.

    Fact: Polly blades have less paint maintmance
    Snow rolls better

    False Statement: They aren't always lighter than steel blades.

    If your running at high speeds, polly is probably a good choice.

    Geoff
     
  14. plowking35

    plowking35 2000 Club Member
    from SE CT
    Messages: 2,923

    The polymer edge that fisher runs on th smaller plows, is not at all like u than. It wears very fast and has no tripping ability.
    Dino
     
  15. wxmn6

    wxmn6 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,037

    If the polymer edge wear out fast, what do you suggest? Should I replace it with a steel cutting edge? Exactly what do no tripping ability mean? Does it mean that with the polymer edge, the edge is not likely to trip if it hit an object, correct?
     
  16. plowking35

    plowking35 2000 Club Member
    from SE CT
    Messages: 2,923

    Email me off forum, or call me at 860-859-0739 and I will go over the details of urethane vs polymer or steel. No I wouldnt install a steel edge either.
    It just that this topic has been covered alot in the past and I dont want to waste more space with it here again.
    Thanks
    Dino
     
  17. diggerman

    diggerman Senior Member
    from Ames
    Messages: 700

    Just remember always get a second opinion!
     
  18. CT18fireman

    CT18fireman Banned
    Messages: 2,133

    To say a polymer edge does not trip is misleading. The plow is set-up like all Fisher plows. Just has a piece of fast wearing plastic attached to it. Easiest fix is to have the local steel shop punch an edge to fit the hole pattern (mine cost $60 I think). This will allow for ability to cut through heavy snow as well as not wearing as fast. Most people I have seen make this modification.