1. Welcome to PlowSite. Notice a fresh look and new features? It’s now easier to share photos and videos, find popular topics fast, and enjoy expanded user profiles. If you have any questions, click HELP at the top or bottom of any page, or send an email to help@plowsite.com. We welcome your feedback.

    Dismiss Notice

Steel edges on Pro-Wings?

Discussion in 'Commercial Snow Removal' started by JohnnyU, Oct 3, 2003.

  1. JohnnyU

    JohnnyU 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,037

    I chatted about this topic with another Plowsite member, who told me that he can't think of anyone that had done this.

    I know that the rubber edges of the pro-wings fold back very easily, so I thought about adding a piece of 3/8"-1/2" steel plate to solve this problem. I know that manyof you run U-edges and would suggest a piece of Urethane on the wing as well. I'm still in the steel age, and for me, sterrl is by far cheaper, (getting it at cost makes it more economical). SO to save myself some money and solve the problem of the folding rubber, I thought the steel would be a valid solution.

    What does everyone think about that? I know not everyone here runs u-edges, so I know someof you are also still in the steel age. Would this hurt the plow's ability to trip? It doesn't trip often, but in the case that it did, could it still do so?

    Any other suggestions are welcome, I may just have to break down for the urethane....
  2. wyldman

    wyldman Member
    Messages: 3,265

    I run steel edges on my wings,but they are straight,not slightly angled like the prowings.They are also very heavily built,unlike the prowings.

    I think the steel may affect the trip ability of the blade,whereas the rubber can fold back.The rubber is also used to prevent and hard impact with obstacles that may break\bend,or damage the wings.Even the poly edges may be to stiff for this application.
  3. Garagekeeper

    Garagekeeper Senior Member
    Messages: 459

    Pro-Wing Edges

    The Pro-Wing mounting brackets and bracing were really not designed to take the impact that will occur from having the steel edge on them.
    We have even had bending problems with running the poly edges on them after having contact with curbs etc do to the fact there is less flexing of the edge.
    :rolleyes: John.............
  4. JohnnyU

    JohnnyU 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,037

    Thanks for the replies guys, I'll use them as is, and if I break them, I'll use them as a pattern for a heavier design with more bracing and maybe able to withstand a little more impact.
  5. Highpoint

    Highpoint Senior Member
    Messages: 241

    Did not do your homework. We have stated several times that we have been running Pro Wings WITH steel edges for the better part of 10 years now. Yea, we have bent a few but nothing that a good torch and welder could not handle.

    In case your'e interested. Here are the way we mount them.

    It is always best to start this project with a brand new cutting edge. I strongly suggest going to a thicker cutting edge. We have been using 1" thick by 6 inch wide edges made from mild steel.

    Take the rubber off. Put the plow on the truck and park on level ground. Make sure the plow A-Frame is level with the ground with the new edge on. This is very important! You may have to do some adjusting on the truck mount or A-Frame mount. The geometry of the plow when angled will be wrong if this is not correct. One side of the plow will be raised off the ground at full angle if not correct. (you don't want that)

    Take a section of 3/4 to 1" thick material the same as the new cutting edge. (could be thicker or thinner than the actual cutting edge. The name of the game is "Lasting ability before having to replace".) Lay this chunk up against the wing till you have a nice transition from the main blade. (This piece will NOT be set at the same approach angle as the main blade but more laid back at a steeper angle.) Does not matter if you have any extra hanging past the other end of the wing. This will be cut off to length when done. (or not)

    Weld this edge to the main cutting edge thoroughly. (several passes) You can try and fill the space at the meet point for a smooth transition but it is not necessary. Just get it good. Next run a continuous bead the entire length of the wing edge to the wing itself. (Make several passes if necessary, get good penetration) Done with the front side.

    Get a piece of heavy angle (good choice is to get the same as the bottom angle material the plow blade is made off (2.5"?)

    You will need to get fancy with the cutting torch for this one. Fit one end to the bottom angle of the actual plow. (Won't be a perfect fit) Cut this new piece of angle about 1" short of the end of the wing keeping the piece on the same plane as the original angle of the moldboard. (Roughly parallel with the ground) You may have to fudge this depending on the geometry of the wings when originally installed.

    Weld this new (brace angle) to the wing. You will probably only be able to weld on the end, top, bottom and maybe up the angle a bit. More the better.

    You can choose to leave the rest of the original wing mounting the same with just the pins in or you can remove the pins and weld at those points. (The key is to be tight)

    I recommend running a bead at least 2-3 inches long in front where the wing meets the actual moldboard (to keep something from wedging itself between the two causing excess stress on the other welds.

    Paint and your done!

    We have been running this way a long time. Works well and does not seem to affect the plows ability to roll forward when hitting something. Actually seems to help cause at rollover, the main edge raises up clearing the obstacle. This configuration WILL affect the way the plow rolls the snow off the edges but you can live with it.

    I know, the next question you have is: How do you change a cutting edge?

    Pretty easy. You'll need a torch and welder again.

    Start by raising the plow in the air. Put a block under the middle of the plows A-Frame and lower so old cutting edge is several inches off ground. With your torch in hand, lay the head of the torch against the wing and cut the top bead out facing the flame straight done or parallel with the wing face. You most likely will NOT get into the wing itself due to the angle of this piece of edge. Then just cut the wing edge off the main edge. Replace the regular edge just like old times. Repeat the same procedure as listed above for installing the wing edges. You will not have to do anything to the back side of the wing.

    We can do this procedure in 1 to 1.5 hours IF we have all materials ready, IE: holes in new cutting edge, wing pieces cut to approx. length, plenty of welding gas and rods or MIG wire.

    We MIG all of our stuff. Never had a failure.

    Any Questions? Good Luck.
  6. JohnnyU

    JohnnyU 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,037

    Actually, I saw that, but thats way to permanent for my tastes. My question, which should have been better stated, was how might my idea work, while still being able to remove the wings. But thank you for the advice. I now know I will probably have to run something thicker than 1/2", just for strength. I may adopt that design, but keep the wings removable.

    Do you have any pictures of these plows?
  7. Highpoint

    Highpoint Senior Member
    Messages: 241

    ACTUALLY, we do have a set up on one of our plows that has a POLY blade. Set up the cutting edge the same, welded the angle brace the same.

    Difference, we put large washers on the wing pins that protrude through the poly to absorb the load better. The welded wing cutting edge holds the majority of the force. IF you wanted to take them off you could with less effort but you would still need a torch.

    You could probably do a variation of the two and NOT weld the wing edge to the main edge. Then only weld the angle brace on one end and set the other end up with some sort of receiver situation. Then you could take the wings off regularly, just be heavier. Would also probably lessen the overall strength of the wing taking a hit, but you would know where you are going right!

    It's a thought. :)
  8. BRL

    BRL PlowSite.com - Veteran
    Messages: 1,277

    The Pro Wings & others like them are supposed to be temporary additions to your plow. So they are set up to be removed easily. So whatever method you use to mount the edge on the wings, just attach the steel to the wings. There's no need to permanently attach them, or their cutting edge to the plow, so if you don't want to use Highpoints method that's fine.

    They are plenty heavy duty enough as they arrive in the box. I have slammed them into things, etc, over the years and they have survived the abuse well. They don't look so pretty anymore & required the BFH here & there, but they work fine. If you hit something hard enough that the wings become damaged enough to require welding & torching, be happy that the wings absorbed that damage & not your plow or truck, because to do that much damage to the wings would surely be detrimental to those items for sure.
  9. Highpoint

    Highpoint Senior Member
    Messages: 241

    Sorry Snowybowtie, I just now noticed the question about pictures of my plows. I'll see what I can do. I've been needing a good reason to buy a Digital Camera. You will be the first to know. It may be a few weeks.

    Regarding the last post by BRL. He is right, the steps I listed may be on the extreme side. I never wanted the wings to be removed and was going more for strength.

    One other option that I tried in the beginning was to get a piece of steel the same thickness as the original wings. I got a piece of cardboard and used it to make a template for adding steel to the bottom of the wing, there by giving the rubber edge more backing and less room to roll back. This worked OK for a while. I think I ended up with roughly 2 inches of rubber below the steel. Less bend meant more scraping ability.

    It's another thought.:p
  10. JohnnyU

    JohnnyU 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,037

    That's something else I had thought of Highpoint. I'm glad that you tried it, and that it worked, I will probably make a template for each of them when they arrive, so that I can make replacements when or if they bend and break. I will also try the extension piece to prevent to much rubber from rolling backwards, Thanks to everyone for the great suggestions/testimonials. I plan to finalize my order this weekend.
  11. Santo

    Santo Banned
    Messages: 255

    2 Things come to mind.

    Inlets and manhole covers = moldboard folding into shapes you've never dreamed of.

    Been there , done that.