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Starter Problems 85 K-5 Blazer

Discussion in 'Chevy Trucks' started by Willie, Feb 6, 2003.

  1. Willie

    Willie Member
    Messages: 32

    In all my years of working on Chevys I have never had this problem.
    Yesterday After I had been out cutting wood. I turned off my Blazer. Decided I need to move it. Restarted the Engine the starter made a loud clunking noise. And would not reengage.
    So I could move it to my shop I went and got my special tool (hammer) to see if the starter went bad. Sure enough a couple of whacks and it started right up. I moved it in the shop and took out the starter. Well the Nose cone on the starter was busted off.
    So I went to town and bought another starter. Re installed the new starter and sure as **** it did the same exact thing.
    Flywheel looks find. Never had this happen before.
    It's a 85 k-5 blazer at with a 700r trans and a350 motor.
    AnY Ideas?
     
  2. wyldman

    wyldman Member
    Messages: 3,265

    Is there a starter brace on the back side of the starter ? If not,get one,or make one.It will help prevent that problem.

    If it did it again that quickly,then there must be something else wrong.Does the motor turn over easily ?
     
  3. Willie

    Willie Member
    Messages: 32

    Wyldman it's never made any nose what so ever.The klanking noise is what has me worried. It runs great timing is on. I'm thinking ring gear. The only problem is I can't break lose one bolt to get off the inspection cover.
     
  4. CARDOCTOR

    CARDOCTOR PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,310

    if you didnt get the cover off maybe the starter was cocked

    or maybe it needed to be shimed the bracket on the rear of the starter is a must
    the worst part is know you have to pay the core charge for both starter since you broke of the nose


    cardoctor
     
  5. Willie

    Willie Member
    Messages: 32

    CarDr. yah it does suck. The bolts weren't lose when it came out and it's never had a brace. What I don't like is both starters made the same noise. Then locked up. I was able to get it freed up. And I think if the ring gear was bad I would not have been able to.
     
  6. Willie

    Willie Member
    Messages: 32

    Well the parts store gave me the wrong starter. But now that I have installed the correct starter? I have no power to the small lead to the starter. Now I've had that dam thing in and out 4 times. And I'm wondering if I could have made a mistake and connected the small lead to the wrong side of the solenoid.
    I did check the wire for power and there was none even with the key on. If you laying on your back looking up at the starter I have the small lead connected to the left side.
    Any Ideas??? HELP???
     
  7. paul soccodato

    paul soccodato Senior Member
    Messages: 430

    on the starter, there are two small terminals, R + S.
    if you only have one small wire, connect it to the S terminal.

    that wire should only have power while you are cranking.
     
  8. Willie

    Willie Member
    Messages: 32

    Paul it will not crank and I had the wife turn the ign. while I had a test light to it. Still no power.
     
  9. Willie

    Willie Member
    Messages: 32

    I did trace the wire all the way back to the Alt. No power. From the alt. to the ign. I do have power but it is very faint.......???
     
  10. Willie

    Willie Member
    Messages: 32

    Also I have power every were else....
     
  11. SCFALL

    SCFALL Member
    Messages: 47

    That wire should have a fusible link in it that may be blown, check for that next. You said you had faint power at alt. are you useing a test light, not to reliable for diagnostics use a volt meter ( multimeter) you might have a shorted wire causing a volt drop. Also you should have disconnected the batt. before you replaced the starter check the connection there too. Hope it helps Scott
     
  12. Willie

    Willie Member
    Messages: 32

    Thanks SC. I did disconnect the battery. I'll check it out tomorrow with my Fluke meter. but looking a the wiring diagram it's hard to tell were the fusable link would be at. One thing I hate is ripping into a wiring harness.
     
  13. SCFALL

    SCFALL Member
    Messages: 47

    Fuseable link

    The link is normally down by the starter it looks like a peice of rubber hose over the wire. GOOD LUCK Scott
     
  14. wyldman

    wyldman Member
    Messages: 3,265

    Check for power first at the battery positive cable at the starter.If the old starter(s) siezed,it may have fried the big battery cable.

    There should be 3 other wires going to the starter.Two larger red ones,with fusible links,and a smaller wire (usually purple or blue,sometimes it's pink or tan) which should go the the small solenoid terminal.If you looking at the back of the solenoid,the "S" terminal is usually on the right side,or closest to the motor.

    When checking for power on the solenoid trigger wire,you must have all the other wires connected to the big lug on the starter,or you will have nothing.The other wires at the starter feed the ign switch,so if they are disconnected,or the starter is out when you are testing,it will not work.

    To check the fusible links,connect everything up,inc the battery cables.Now check for power at the junction block.That tests one of the fusible links at the starter.Now check for power at the small white two prong alt plug,on the rd wire.That will check the other.

    There are also two links at the junction block,which you can check right there.

    You may have connected the solenoid wire to the wrong terminal,or maybe shorted or broke one of the fusible links at the starter.

    I'm still curious to know what broke the nose cone on TWO starters.
     
  15. Willie

    Willie Member
    Messages: 32

    Sc and Wyldman Thanks a lot for all your help.I'll check out all the connections today and I'll let you know the outcome.

    Wyldman The first starter I pulled out looked like it had been cracked for a long time. There was grease down in a part of the crack and the rest was a clean break. The second starter was the wrong part. I know all Chevy starters are about the same from about 68 to 88 but the nose cone was different. I've had this truck for about 6 years and have done a lot of work on it. But have never had to replace the starter. It doesn't look to pretty but I live by Mt. Shasta in Ca. and I do a lot of hunting and wheeling.
    I spend a lot of time on a Raider board. yah I'm a Raider fan since 68 I should have told you all that first........<snicker>....
    But hay I yam what I yam....:)
     
  16. Willie

    Willie Member
    Messages: 32

    Well it was a fuse able link. Now I tired shiming the dam thing 10 ways to sunday and I can't get the whine out of it. Going to have to live with it till next payday.
     
  17. wyldman

    wyldman Member
    Messages: 3,265

    Glad to hear you got it going.

    Maybe it doesn't need shimming,and it's too far away from the ring gear now ?
     
  18. paul soccodato

    paul soccodato Senior Member
    Messages: 430

    also, make sure your starter bolts are'nt bent.

    i've seen bent bolts cause the starter to make noise.
     
  19. plowking35

    plowking35 2000 Club Member
    from SE CT
    Messages: 2,923

    I would suggest that you take the red wire leads that go to the big positve connector at the starter and re route them direct to battery. There should be two fusable links at the starter. One has a single wire running in and out, the other has two wires in and one out. The single fusable link is the same one that burnt out on my 84 on Monday. Chris saved my but then as well. We rerouted direct to the battery and that will solve alot of power problems.
    Dino
     
  20. Willie

    Willie Member
    Messages: 32

    Wyldman tried that to didn't help.