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stainless steel skin!?

Discussion in 'Truck & Equipment Repair' started by durafish, Dec 2, 2012.

  1. durafish

    durafish PlowSite.com Addict
    from 02919
    Messages: 1,092

  2. alldayrj

    alldayrj PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,097

    So it just goes over the rusted metal? Not really structural but maybe a nice alternative to redoing a swiss cheese moldboard.
     
  3. Morrissey snow removal

    Morrissey snow removal PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,799

    i saw those on craigslist
     
  4. quigleysiding

    quigleysiding PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,097

    What holds it on?
     
  5. Morrissey snow removal

    Morrissey snow removal PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,799

    sounds like a band aid
     
  6. durafish

    durafish PlowSite.com Addict
    from 02919
    Messages: 1,092

    yea i think it just sticks on. it wouldnt be bad if you took the old skin off then put this on.
     
  7. Morrissey snow removal

    Morrissey snow removal PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,799

    yes that would be nice cut the old one off and weld that on it would be a nice clean looking job
     
  8. A.M.Canfora

    A.M.Canfora Member
    Messages: 47

    Been doing this for years with just regular steel, I have some old posts with pics on here from reskining plows. the correct way is to just cut off the old rusted skin, clean up the supports and weld on the new skin. I have welded a new skin over the old skin if the customer wants to do it cheaper but i strongly discourage doing this. So if they don't weld or bolt the new skin on does that mean they use epoxy to put it on over the old rusty blade? I cannot see it being held on there to long if that is the case
     
    Last edited: Dec 3, 2012
  9. alldayrj

    alldayrj PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,097

    Do you buy prefab skins with the curve rolled in? My boss is shot right above the cutting edge
     
  10. dieselss

    dieselss PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 10,949

    any pics or more info A,M.???
    im also interested in if you get it pre curved as well??
     
  11. jasonv

    jasonv PlowSite.com Addict
    from kannada
    Messages: 1,114

    If it just goes over the surface, it will actually ACCELERATE the degradation, because it will trap moisture+salt in between the two skins.
     
  12. A.M.Canfora

    A.M.Canfora Member
    Messages: 47


    http://www.plowsite.com/showthread.php?t=133858

    Here is a thread from earlier in the year. I make the skins myself I either roll them or brake bend them. I even burn new supports on the CNC plasma table to replace any broken or bent ones. I even make skins for anyone who wants to buy them and do it themselfs
     
    Last edited: Dec 3, 2012
  13. birddseedd

    birddseedd PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,516

    yes....... no point to this post. just want to strongly agree....

    although, if you were to weld the edges and any rusted holes sealed?
     
  14. Morrissey snow removal

    Morrissey snow removal PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,799

    thats a much better way to do it then go over the old one
     
  15. dieselss

    dieselss PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 10,949

    not unless you get the welds checked,,,so theres still no point in welding to to old skin. and how you gunna get all the moisture out from the old skin?
     
  16. birddseedd

    birddseedd PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,516

    as in pressure checked?
     
  17. dieselss

    dieselss PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 10,949

    thats one test,,,theres more that would be needed as well
     
  18. birddseedd

    birddseedd PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,516

    i think it would be more useful to just cut out the rusted parts and weld in new patches.

    or dont buy a rusted threw plow to begin with. i never would. if they dont maintain the mold board i doubte they maintained anything else on it.

    just my opinion
     
  19. jasonv

    jasonv PlowSite.com Addict
    from kannada
    Messages: 1,114

    Lets put it this way; of the two older meyer blades I have, BOTH rusted through, and specifically, they rusted from the inside of the ribs outward. The ribs on those blades form supposedly sealed compartments. My new Arctic plow has no sealed compartments on it AT ALL.

    I believe that any time you have something that is sealed, you are going to trap some kind of contaminant inside it and eventually have problems because of it.

    I suggest that you can patch the steel skin until it can be patched no more. After that, the only solution is to cut it off and replace it.
     
  20. birddseedd

    birddseedd PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,516

    i defiantly agree. you can get covers, plastic or stainless, but its going to always be temporary. with the guy above making the mold board already rolled, it would only take a couple hours to cut off and weld in a new mold board. defiantly the best way to go.

    i wonder if he can do them in stainless?!