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spreader rebuild

Discussion in 'Ice Management' started by karl klein, Mar 7, 2002.

  1. karl klein

    karl klein Senior Member
    Messages: 557

    i own a old swenson v box and the bottom end is open so salt flows out the bottom and i was wondering if i can weld a plate across the bottom

    i am also planning to rebuild the bearings and motor controls
     
  2. 75

    75 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,382

    I'll admit to not being too familiar with V-boxes, is the bottom end open due to rust? If it is, whether or not it's feasible to weld a plate in depends on how bad the rust is.

    Having had to work on quite a number of "(expletive deleted) rustbuckets" over the years I can say that I HATE rust in all it's forms! :mad:
     
  3. karl klein

    karl klein Senior Member
    Messages: 557

    as far as i can tell it never had a bottom
     
  4. landman

    landman Senior Member
    from NJ
    Messages: 185

    the purpose for no bottom plate is for a couple reasons, th let any big pieces or obstructions to fall out and not jam the machine, and to clean and service the conyeyor chain.
     
  5. CT18fireman

    CT18fireman Banned
    Messages: 2,133

    The bottom should be open and the spreader should be lifted a bit off the floor of the bed.

    If the piece the conveyor runs on is rusted then that can be replaced. Most are bolted in.
     
  6. Eager Beaver

    Eager Beaver Senior Member
    Messages: 104

    I also have an older swenson Vbox salter. There was never a bottom plate on these boxes. As far as repairing I just had mine rewelded on the bottom with new metal coming 4 inches down the side and including a new lip that the chain rides on underneath. They unfortunately are not bolted on this unit. You can glue strips of marine grade plywood on top of that lip to help wear from the chain and also it keeps salt from laying on the lip underneath that will eventially rot it off if not protected. The plywood is a lot cheaper to replace than replacing the lip. Also make sure if you fork the salter out of the truck or store it on pallots etc. keep it off the cement and the ground as this will also help eliminate the bottom from rusting. If it gets weak it will collapse the lip and the chain will bind or break Just my two cents!!
     
  7. karl klein

    karl klein Senior Member
    Messages: 557

    i have got the back end off of my unit and ordered all new bearings but i was wondring how you get the chain off of the unit
     
  8. karl klein

    karl klein Senior Member
    Messages: 557

    PLEASE!!! i need help i no it comes off becuase you can order replacement ones
     
  9. CT18fireman

    CT18fireman Banned
    Messages: 2,133

    Are you talking about the drag chain??? It is held in place by pins at one of the links. Rotate the chain until you fine it. Then pull/cut the pins and the chain should seperate and roll right out.
     
  10. Eager Beaver

    Eager Beaver Senior Member
    Messages: 104

    What I did with mine was take a cutting torch and cut it at the open end instead of trying to get the pins out. It will then just pull out. A lot quicker and less frustrating. You may have to cut it at the front also so you can pull it from the top and the bottom as it rotates around the front spindle gears and gets hung up.
    Hope this helps
     
  11. CT18fireman

    CT18fireman Banned
    Messages: 2,133

    Usually you have to cut the older chains. If the unit is running the motor will turn the chain right out. If not it will be a bit more work. I have had to take them out link by link after they broke and jammed in the tray. Not a fun job.