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Speedcast lights, etc

Discussion in 'Fisher Engineering Discussion' started by AUB1, Jan 10, 2011.

  1. AUB1

    AUB1 Member
    Messages: 46

    Hi Guys,
    I have a few problems I'm trying to work out, I hope someone can help. I have an '87 GMC Diesel shortie which I bought to restore. I also have a 70's speedcast. I was staying with my Mother for the winter so I didn't need my plowtruck this year but she just passed away so I am now forced to get this together. We finally get the diesel running saturday, [long story], and started putting the plow on, The truck has never had a plow on it so you can emagin the fun we're been having! After hours of finding a spot for the hydrolics under the hood, finding somewhere for the joystick, etc,etc,etc, we're ready to put on the head with the lights. Neither of us took the plow off my old suburban so we have no idea how to hook up the lights. As u can no doubt tell, I am not the best at wireing....I can't even spell it. Are the trucks lights supposed to be on as well as the plow lights? Do you hook the wires from the plow to the wires from the truck? Thoes were just a couple of questions to let you know the level of stupidity I exist at day in, day out. All kidding aside I have to solve this problem somehow. I would greatly appreciate any help you could give me. I have to get up and running tomorrow but the truck is just going to be used back here in the woods for now so for now I just need some lights.
    Thank You in advance
     
  2. RepoMan207

    RepoMan207 PlowSite Fanatic
    from Maine
    Messages: 5,031

  3. chevyzrule810

    chevyzrule810 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,238

    No only the plow lights should be on.
     
  4. AUB1

    AUB1 Member
    Messages: 46

    Thanks Repoman, thoes really helped. I am in the Wolfville area one hour from Halifax.
    Thanks again
     
  5. Megunticook

    Megunticook Senior Member
    from Maine
    Messages: 190

    I have an old Speedcast, too. Basically you want a 2 pole toggle switch in the cab, one position directs power to your headlamps, the other position directs power the the plow headlights. They're never both on at the same time.

    This would be a great opportunity to install headlamp relays in your truck (assuming it doesn't already have them). Brighter, more consistent lights that way. Not a lot more work that what you're doing anyway.
     
  6. sweetk30

    sweetk30 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,588

    yep the relay mod is great for these.

    if you get time and wana try it look on www.ck5.com there is a few good writeups on this.
     
  7. AUB1

    AUB1 Member
    Messages: 46

    Hey Thanks Guys. But due to time constraints and we're supposed to get snow tomorrow another Buddy hooked the lights for me. I wasn't there for most of it but I come back and all the lights come on when the lights switch is turned on. I will do the relay thing but for the next day or two this is what I have. Is there any chance of the wires catching on fire? What bad thing could happen?
    Thank You
     
  8. Megunticook

    Megunticook Senior Member
    from Maine
    Messages: 190

    Aw, c'mon, you've got at least 12 hours until the snow flies...you're supposed to just finish up your truck repair as the first flakes start falling after spending all night at it. I remember replacing some brake lines at 3am once just in such a situation.



    Yikes, don't jinx yourself! I trust your buddy knows enough about electricity not to set up a ticking time bomb. To answer your question, yes, a poor wiring job could certainly get something damn hot in there...resistance=heat, and with high-beams your pulling a few amps through that copper.

    When you do the relays, make sure all your connections are clean and tight, crimp, solder, and shrink tube any splices and terminals, use dielectric grease on any exposed copper, be fussy in other words. Not only will you not be driving down the road and wonder what that hot plasticy smell is and why smoke is emanating from under your dash, but you'll never have to worry about your lights going lame at an inopportune time. You have a wiring diagram for your truck?
     
  9. sweetk30

    sweetk30 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,588

    ya our old style trucks the power goes from battery in to cab. threw old style headlight switch. then back outto each light.

    thats a lot of system to loose power. with the truck runnin just for kicks check the batt volts. then test the headlight volts its reciving when running. you will prob see almost if not a 2 volt drop from the old system.

    the relay mod take the load off the old switch and get direct battery volts to the headlamps via the 30 amp relays . the diffrence at night from what i have read is like a whole new system of lights. much brighter.

    this summer when i redo my k30 its gettin the electric fan modification with a ford winstar setup and the headlight relay mod.
     
  10. AUB1

    AUB1 Member
    Messages: 46

    Thanks alot Guys...this is just great. I guess for now I'll just use low beams until after this storm. I'm not plowing commercially anymore...just my own road which is close to one klick, and 2 other cottages up here at the lake.
    I'm sure this isn't like a Dr's office as in one problem at a time, so I'll ask another question. First of all this new/old truck is so light but that's a quick fix. The big thing is my plow is moving so slow....a couple times last night I didn't think it was going to move. When I had this plow of my old suburban it was 3 times as fast. I topped up the pump...that's full. Could it be that the system needs to be bled? Raising the RPM's does nothing, it's still really slow. I will check around the site, I'm sure this issue has been raised before but if someone has an opinion I'm all ears. By the way, I appreciate all the help.
     
  11. Megunticook

    Megunticook Senior Member
    from Maine
    Messages: 190

    Actually, having the brights on or not is not a big deal, if there was a point of high resistance in either the lowbeam or the highbeam circuit, like a loose connection, it would be the same difference.

    Slow plow may mean your fluid pressure is not up to par. Bad pump possibly, although you said it worked fine before. How long ago was that?

    Change the filter recently? I'm assuming you have the belt drive system. Probably not the problem, but flushing each year and changing the filter helps avoid hassles.
     
  12. sweetk30

    sweetk30 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,588

    or if the install guy helpin didnt hook up the belt drive pullys right. then pump to slow of speed no pressure.
     
  13. sweetk30

    sweetk30 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,588

  14. AUB1

    AUB1 Member
    Messages: 46

    I just bought a new belt and it's good and tight. It's been a couple of years since the fluid was changed, and I have to admit that I can't remember when the filter was changed last. This plow was never used much, it sat most of the time....I will change the fluid and filter tomorrow. OK here goes...I don't know where the filter is...how stupid is that? I guess I neglected this plow...it just always worked when I needed it...I only used it up here at home and it got overlooked, I had a newer truck with a new plow that I used to do driveways. This one is a speedcast from the 70's. When I bought it the hydrolics were outside on the frame with 2 cables in the cab to operate the up/down, side to side. Last year I picked up a joystick system with the hydrolics under the hood. Without laughing at me TOO much, and I'm sure I could find it, but maby someone could tell me where the filter is. So there, that tells you that I have NO pride at all! Thanks fellas
     
  15. Megunticook

    Megunticook Senior Member
    from Maine
    Messages: 190

    There should be a filter on the low-pressure return line to the pump. And yes, you should change the fluid annually. You're using ATF, right?

    Is your belt running off a crankshaft pulley (down at the bottom of the motor)? The pumps are designed to operate at a certain RPM, check the Fisher specs for your truck but I would guess yours is supposed to run off the crank. When I originally had my system installed by a shop (bought it used), they messed up some stuff, including running the plow pump belt off the water pump pulley. I since fixed it by installing a special drive sheave from Fisher onto my crank pulley, so now the pump is at the correct RPM. It's a tad slow at idle, but not too bad, and if I give it a little gas to bring the idle up to 1000 or so it's plenty quick.

    That was some serious plowing last night--down here on the west shore of Penobscot Bay we got a good 14" and fairly heavy stuff. How did things shake out in NS?
     
  16. sweetk30

    sweetk30 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,588

    he sent me a pm message on the speed issue of the pump.

    basicly his mechanic tryed his best to hook this thing up fast for him.

    and as i figured the setup was from a gas motor vehicle last NOT a 6.2. this means gas is crank add on pulley driven. and 6.2 is water pump add on pulley driven. so its not in the right place for correct speed. and the 3 bolt gas pulley wont fit cause the 6.2 is 4 bolt and harmonic balencer crank pulley in 1 . thats prob why fisher went for the water pump area.

    he used a extra pulley on the engine. NOT the correct fisher addin pulley. so i told him the pump is prob being fed to little rpm speed from the wrong size / used pulley.

    gave him a few tips to look at and try.

    let us know buddy we got ya covered on what to try next. Thumbs Up
     
    Last edited: Jan 13, 2011
  17. AUB1

    AUB1 Member
    Messages: 46

    Thanks..and last night

    Thanks for that....yes, the belt for the pump is on the crank pully and I'm going to the parts for trucks store to get the filter. Yup, I use ATF in the system.
    Last night was the biggest dump of the year so far, and it's still snowing out there. Since my truck isn't legal yet I have to haul fuel up here, and last night I had to keep a real close eye on the gague. We just spent quite a few days getting this truck running. Long story but we had to completly bleed the fuel system. One of the tanks had a pin hole in the line and was sucking air and you know how much diesels like air. So we didn't have time to fix the line, we just went to the other tank and since I don't know the truck yet I was quite concerned about running out of diesel on a dark deserted road at 4am in a blinding snow storm especially after the reports of coyotes eating a few people around here lately but, I guess thats why we Love plowing so much....right?
     
  18. AUB1

    AUB1 Member
    Messages: 46

    Hey Guys, it's me again. I just read your post SweetK. I PM'd you cause I didn't really want to bother everybody and you seem to know 6.2's and all. I won't do that again after reading your last reply. Everybody seems to be interested and helpful and I'll just ask away when I have a problem. Hopefully I'll be able to help someone out myself in awhile after some of this stuff soaks into my brain, [or whats left of it after the 70's]
    So I need to upgrade the pully system with this speial drive sheave which goes on my crank pully? If that means I'm not back dragging half of the snow I just plowed I'll do anything!
     
  19. sweetk30

    sweetk30 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,588

    if you can find one you need #24 in the blowup. its the add on pulley for the water pump to drive the plow pump.
     
  20. Megunticook

    Megunticook Senior Member
    from Maine
    Messages: 190

    Warning: potential sticker shock ahead. I had to get the drive sheave for my Dodge 318 motor crank pulley, Fisher still had a few in stock but they charged $175 for a part that probably cost all of $50 to manufacture. Ouch!

    If for some reason Fisher doesn't have one, call around to dealers that specialize in old Fisher parts (Storks Automotive in Pennsylvania, for one), or junkyards. I had to call around boneyards to locate the proper mounting bracket for my pump...