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Some more help...

Discussion in 'Chevy Trucks' started by cward05, Sep 18, 2004.

  1. cward05

    cward05 Senior Member
    from CT
    Messages: 113

    Hello again everyone, thanks for your help on the hubs issue. I have some more questions now that I think of it. As mentioned before, I have a 1983 chevy k10 shortbed pickup with a lift kit (not sure how much-how do I find out?), and 31" tires. Its either a 305 or 350 (if someone knows how to find out, that might help I looked on door jamb, but can't find the info), a 3 speed with granny gear, and has headers and dual exhaust. My first question is, are there any relatively cheap products that actually work to improve gas mileage such as the tornado (does it actually work?)...because now, it seems very low, probably less that 10 mpg. My second question is: I cannot seem to find the windshield wiper fluid button to activate it, I know where the switch for the blades are, but not the windshield wiper fluid button. Where is that located? My last question is, i have a 7'6" fisher plow for the winter and one of the hoses to the pistons is cracked (only the plastic), is it cheap to replace, or can I just tape it up using electrical tape (I know that is a sin on this site, lol). Also, to replace the fluid in the plow motor, I should just use All transmission fluid? How do I do that, is there a plug on the motor to drain? THANKS SO MUCH!! I TRULY APPRECIATE IT!
     
  2. cward05

    cward05 Senior Member
    from CT
    Messages: 113

    Answers

    P.S. If people can't answer all of these questions at once its ok, but any answers would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
     
  3. derekbroerse

    derekbroerse 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,377

    I don't remember if 83's have the dash switch or on the turn signals. Dash switch, push the same knob as the wipers inwards. Turn signal style is standard 80's GM issue, push the paddle on the top of the signal lever towards the dash.

    305 vs 350 is tricky, as parts can be swapped over time and will interchange. Probably the quickest way is to look at the harmonic balancer on the front pulley of the crankshaft. Look at the width of the balancer, TYPICALLY 350's are about 1" or so, and 305's are more like 1.5" thick. 305 exhaust manifolds are like a tube that runs backwards, then down at the rear, while 350 manifolds have more of that 'Y' shape to them (still exiting near the rear). The only real sure-fire way to tell is to look for casting numbers (on the block on the driver's side of the bellhousing flange) or application ID numbers (stamped in a pad behind the alternator) as they cannot be easily changed.

    I have heard (but have no experience with) the tornado is useless. Most of these things are gimmicks. Do you have a tach? About what is the RPM at 60mph? If your axles have enough gear in them (or you have the 350 rather than the 305) you can lower the cruise rpm with a taller set of tires, say 33". If the proper conditions are not met first you may actually LOSE mileage due to the engine lugging.

    I have no experience with Fisher plows. ATF works in plows but isn't usually recommended. Best be safe and use the proper low-temp hydraulic fluid for plows... also then you don't have to worry about a reaction with mixing fluid types.

    Hoses are usually under $20 and are no different than any industrial hose supplier can give you. If you want to replace it now, go ahead... or you can buy a new one just in case and keep it, the required tools, and plow fluid with you. :D
     
  4. cward05

    cward05 Senior Member
    from CT
    Messages: 113

    Thanks/ one more question

    Thanks for the reply! I do have a tach, and it is a 4 speed manual. It is probably around 2100 or so, but I forget since I have not been on the highway in a while (it is mostly a work truck around the house). As for the ATF, I said that because that is what the cap to the plow motor says. If so, should I still switch to the low-temp plow fluid? Also, one last question. After taking the truck in for a tune-up, a few weeks later (I had been driving it regularly in between), when I started it, it was idling very fast, around 1800 to 200 rpm, which was way higher than what it used to be at, and now, everytime I start it, it remains at a fast idle, even if I rev the engine, but this helps bring down the idle a little lower, say 1500 rpm. When I switch to first gear and drive normally for a few feet and stop, it idles normally. Can you help? My friend who is a part time mechanic said it was because it is an electric choke, but I don't know. Thanks for any help.
     
  5. derekbroerse

    derekbroerse 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,377

    RPM sounds pretty low already... probably not a lot of gear in the axles, so the larger tire idea isn't going to help, probably only make things worse. The standard gear ratio in these trucks was 3.07 and I doubt you are far away from that. For comparison, my K35 has a 4.56 gear and turns over 3000RPM at highway speeds, therefore putting 33's on instead of 31's dropped the rpm by almost 300... less throttle required for constant speeds means less fuel, right? In your case, I suspect the engine will bog requiring more fuel.

    As for the electric choke, it should kick off if the engine is warmed up and you give it that quick 'kick'. As long as it idles down when you drive away, I wouldn't worry much. I don't know what that could be.

    Check to see what fluid is in the plow currently and use the same stuff. ATF is always red so its easy to tell if it is ATF or something else. Whatever the previous owner used will probably work fine for you too. Just FYI, my dump box has an electric powerpack that calls for ATF. Thats what I used and have yet to have an issue with it.