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Solenoid Wiring. Does it matter what wires go where?

Discussion in 'Fisher Engineering Discussion' started by beatle78, Nov 28, 2008.

  1. beatle78

    beatle78 Senior Member
    Messages: 175

    Hi guys,

    I just finished up installing a wiring for my '03 Chevy K1500 and I have a question a out the solenoid.

    There are 2 control wires (brown/red & black/orange). Does it matter what wire goes to which control pole?

    And does it matter what pole of the solenoid I put the battery cable and what pole I put the battery output on?

    Attached a pic of the solenoid.

    Thanks,
    beatle78

    fisher_solenoid.JPG
     
  2. Gicon

    Gicon Senior Member
    from MA
    Messages: 989

    Beatle, I hope you are joking. Thats like asking if it matters what wires you hook up to what sides of your battery terminal. If you just installed an entire plow set up, I would hope you know how to wire, or find a wiring diagram, for that selenoid.
     
  3. wls

    wls Senior Member
    Messages: 319

    I don't think it does on the small wires
    (battery wire goes on the bat side)
     
  4. beatle78

    beatle78 Senior Member
    Messages: 175

    Do you? If so post it instead of making stupid comments like that.

    There are no markings on the solenoid. Which pole is the battery side?

    The solenoid came in a fisher package. There was no paperwork with it and when I looked on their site, I could not find a wiring diagram for the solenoid.

    AND the installation manual for the iso module was no help either.

    I've got 2 big poles (battery) and 2 little poles (control). I figured that much on my own. So fisher's lake of documentation on their products either means that the hookup doesn't matter or they need to fire their tech writer.

    If anyone has a link to the wiring diagram for that solenoid, please post it.

    Thanks,
    beatle78
     
  5. beatle78

    beatle78 Senior Member
    Messages: 175

    wls,

    How can I tell which side is the battery side?

    Thanks,
    beatle78
     
  6. festerw

    festerw Senior Member
    Messages: 986

    Shouldn't matter for any of the wires, that said the way I've usually seen it done is with the small terminals facing you. Trigger wire to the small left, ground to the small right, battery to the large front and plow to the large rear.

    That's the way my Western and Snoway are done.
     
  7. wls

    wls Senior Member
    Messages: 319

    is'nt the top studs, take the red (pos) cables, just a continuation of the hot positive battery wire. If nobody explains it, I can take a pic of my boss setup, and my western setup, believe its the same.
     
  8. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    It makes no difference which battery power cable you place on whichever large terminal. As long as each one is connected to a terminal, your good to go.

    Same with the small gage wires that are placed on the small terminals....either one on either terminal, makes no difference.

    Thats why it isn't specified in the instruction manual, because it does not matter.


    Info provided should help Gicon out as well. :salute:
     
  9. beatle78

    beatle78 Senior Member
    Messages: 175

    Thanks B&B. I was hoping that was the case, but I had to ask just in case the solenoid was sensitive to current direction on the battery poles and if polarity mattered on the control poles.
     
  10. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    It's always best to ask if unsure beetle, even on a question thats most basic to many, no sense in taking an unnecessary risk...especially with wiring. :waving:
     
  11. wirenut

    wirenut Senior Member
    from nh
    Messages: 513

    those relays suck...you'll be replacing it
    i use ones out of fork trucks...all metal heavy duty
    jmo
     
  12. MeeksCo

    MeeksCo Senior Member
    Messages: 214

    It's the same as mine. Self-tap the solenoid into your sidewall of your truck near the battery so that the two small posts are on top horizontally and the large posts are vertically. Keep the big post with the 'BAT' sticker on the top.
    1. From your controller, run the wire that comes out the back of it to the small post on the right.
    2. Then take a 3" wire and run it off the small post on the left to the 'BAT' big post on top.
    3. Then run the positive cable coming from your pump to the big post on the bottom.
    4. Run the negative cable off of the pump directly to the frame or the engine block.
    5. Done!!
     
  13. 978dakota

    978dakota Junior Member
    Messages: 12

    Who needs a good laugh? I just finished putting the wiring harness in my truck for my MM1. Hooked everything good and snug, hooked up the solenoid...blade won't move! The solenoid was kinda rusty and old looking, so I jumped it...everything moved, so i got a replacement...not an original Fisher one. Why won't it work now?! I double and triple checked everything, nothing. I measured resistance across the poles, tested the connections with a test light while operating the joystick, checked the pump, checked the valve connections...I mean EVERYTHING! We're talking a good 3 hours of pulling my hair out. Here's the laugh...Did you know that some solenoids have to be grounded to work?
     
  14. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    Actually they all have to be grounded to work. Some just ground through different ways. Some through the mounting bracket, and some need an actual ground wire on the second small terminal. Bummer you had to discover that the hard way. :realmad:
     
  15. RepoMan207

    RepoMan207 PlowSite Fanatic
    from Maine
    Messages: 5,036

    Seems every year or so I am replacing mine. I keep a back up in the tool box.
     
  16. MeeksCo

    MeeksCo Senior Member
    Messages: 214


    This post made me laugh...:D
    The best part was 'did you know that some solenoids have to be grounded to work?'...that made me laugh so hard. I can imagine you saying that and being appauled or so surprised. Its funny.

    The other guy is right...they all are grounded. When you screw them into your firwall/sidewall...they immediatley ground themselves to the frame.

    Repoman is right...always keep an extra solenoid on hand. They are easy to replace real quick and even if the solenoid is not whats causing the problem...replacing it usually tapes up the problem long enough to get home or even a couple of weeks. I've owned quite a few cars that had wiring problems....let me tell ya.
     
  17. 978dakota

    978dakota Junior Member
    Messages: 12

    The weird thing is, I had the harness partly installed the other day (original solenoid, no lights...just enough to operate the plow and bring it home) and that solenoid wasn't grounded. That's why I didn't ground the new one. Hence, "some solenoids."
     
  18. Brian Simmons

    Brian Simmons PlowSite.com - Sponsor
    Messages: 196

    None of our module wiring systems need to be grounded. On the relay systems some did require them to be grounded depending on the revision.
     
  19. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    Probably should detail that a little Brian just so there's no confusion. :waving:
     
  20. wirenut

    wirenut Senior Member
    from nh
    Messages: 513

    the solenoid is nothing but switch, a relay non polarized allowing you to control it remotely with
    smaller conductors (sm terms) needs 12v to to pull the contacts together...(big term= switch)
    hope i dont screw you up more after you read this....