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Sod pipe/saver

Discussion in 'Western Plows Discussion' started by thebeave, Dec 27, 2011.

  1. thebeave

    thebeave Member
    Messages: 32

    I am looking at making some kind of sod pipe. sod saver whatever you want to call it! I only do my driveway and 3 or 4 more in the area all of which are gravel and I go on the grass alot to make room! I was wondering if instead of having a pipe slit to go over the cutting edge, could I just weld a solid round bar to the edge of it instead? We have quite a lot of freeze/thaw cycles so can go long times without really frozen ground!
     
  2. MLG

    MLG Senior Member
    from WI
    Messages: 179

    Interresting post. I too would like to work on a sod-saver system. Can't wait to hear solutions.
     
  3. 06Sierra

    06Sierra PlowSite.com Addict
    from Maine
    Messages: 1,329

    A guy I work with set his plow down on a 1 1/2" pipe, centered on the pipe. He welded 4 tabs on to bolt it on using the holes in the trip edge. I cut the pipe so the trip edge sits in it a little and welded tabs on.
     
  4. MLG

    MLG Senior Member
    from WI
    Messages: 179

    How well does it plow snow on gravel? Does it keep from throwing gravel all over the place?
     
  5. x.system

    x.system Senior Member
    Messages: 368

    They work great for gravel, grass, stone. I wouldn't weld direct to the cutting edge, you run the risk of it cracking, ask me how I know lol.

    I know another guy who runs rubber, cutting edge, rubber. The rubber is 2" lower behind and in front of the cutting edge and it acts like a squeegee and lasted a whole season on all surfaces. I want to try this on my next plow.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  6. basher

    basher PlowSite Fanatic
    from 19707
    Messages: 8,992

  7. meborder

    meborder Senior Member
    Messages: 142

    I was thinking about doing this next summer. I will never plow anything except for gravel, so the need to make it removable is moot for me. i dont see a time were i would ever not want to have it on.

    i was thinking about removing the old cutting edge and replacing it with new steel the same thickness, and then welding a solid bar stock to the bottom.

    I can see how i should try to get the cutting edge at the right height so the A-frame stays level, that makes sense, but i dont understand what would crack. The welds from the pipe to cutting edge?

    If i do this i would really like to do it right!
     
  8. basher

    basher PlowSite Fanatic
    from 19707
    Messages: 8,992

    Cutting edges are a little (OK a lot) different then mild steel they are much harder in an abrasion sense. There's more graphite on the molecule surface so the joint is brittle.As for a solid bar; you need some approach angle and the unit gets heavy and expensive as the diameter increases. The greater radius of two and a half or three inch pipe slides and spreads the load with less weight and the slot method provides a cantilever between load and attachment points to lessen the load on the fasteners (be they weld or hardware)

    If you use an attachment method shown on my facebook page (link above) you can attach it in a number of places across the face of the plow in the future it would be fairly easily to remove
     
    Last edited: Dec 28, 2011
  9. NickT

    NickT Senior Member
    Messages: 707

    Looks good basher subscribed for future modification
     
  10. meborder

    meborder Senior Member
    Messages: 142

    I'll check out that link when i get home.

    For me, the solid bar would be much easier to construction. I dont have good equipment with which i could split a hollow pipe as you have shown above.

    I can see your point about welding to the cutting edge and how that might be brittle. I guess i was thinking about using a 1" dia A36 bar stock and 1/4"x4 (or 5/16") A36 flat stock, in leu of the cutting edge. I figgured the 1"dia bar stock would add 20 lbs (+/-) to the weight of the cutting edge.

    I was thinking a full fillet weld on both sides of the bar stock/pipe would be a great plenty, but Maybe this is just a bad approach?
     
  11. thebeave

    thebeave Member
    Messages: 32

    I'm getting a 1 1/2" piece of pipe tomorrow and hope to get it cut and have my buddy weld the tabs on it this weekend! The link above link doesn't appear to work!
     
  12. basher

    basher PlowSite Fanatic
    from 19707
    Messages: 8,992

    IMO one inch isn't enough surface area to make the unit perform much differently then a standard wear edge. I'd be inclined to use 3/8 x 3" flat stock and a 2 1/2 schedule forty or better. The standard wear edge is 6" tall so a 2 3/4 "+ pipe and and 3" flat would give you your proper height.
     
  13. meborder

    meborder Senior Member
    Messages: 142

    if i'm reading this right, we are thinking along the same lines. You are just recommending a larger diameter pipe stock instead of bar stock, to reduce weight i assume.

    If i were to make one that is removeable, as you did above, what is the best way to split the pipe?

    I could get it done with my angle grider, but wow ... not sure how fun that would be.

    thanks!

    thinking this is a project i could probably tackle.
     
  14. basher

    basher PlowSite Fanatic
    from 19707
    Messages: 8,992

    Couple options, we use Plasma but a steel blade in a circular saw works well too.
     
  15. thebeave

    thebeave Member
    Messages: 32

    Got my pipe today, checked with a machine shop and they wanted $140 to put the slit in it! I did it myself at work with the grinder! I used 4 cutting wheels but got it done! Just marked a line with a chalk line and followed it! Will have to fix it up on the weekend as I forgot that there is 2 spots on my cutting edge that have extra thickness that I will need to notch around!
     
  16. JimACM

    JimACM Junior Member
    Messages: 23

    I wonder how it would work to fasten the same way on the ends but use a length of pipe between the cutting edge and backdrag edge . There is a pretty good sized v there to support the tube
     
  17. Boomer123

    Boomer123 Senior Member
    Messages: 340

    Why not just buy a rubber cutting edge. I had one on my plow from the previous owner it worked great.
     
  18. thebeave

    thebeave Member
    Messages: 32

    Thought I had the slot cut wide enough but I was wrong lol! Ground the hell out of it and its close but still tight! Got too dark to keep working at it tonight so will wait till tomorrow if it's not raining too hard!
     
  19. meborder

    meborder Senior Member
    Messages: 142

    I'm kinda new to this, so to be honest, I didn't even know that was an option.

    how well does a rubber cutting edge hold up on gravel? I'm probably plowing 90% gravel and 10% sod.