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So whats a good ball joint to put in a 09 diesel thats tough enough to live

Discussion in 'Ram Trucks' started by cl733, Dec 12, 2015.

  1. cl733

    cl733 Senior Member
    from Canada
    Messages: 252

    So I got a little play in an upper ball joint, and a cup on a axle joint with a bit of play showing up, so its time to get in there and fix it before something comes apart Ive been reading through the cummins power forums and most people are against using MOOG, the Carli joint are supposed to be the best but at 1000$ I cant see that being an option , XRF give you a million mile warranty but that's only if you break one, they are supposed to be on their 4th generation and people swear by them so maybe they got it figured out , Mcquay-norris was supposed to have a pro line that is supposed to be really tough, but they are taken over by Raybestos and supposed to be offering the same part, and sealed power offers the exact same part numbers as Raybestos. And whats the easiest way to remove a axle joint cap , those 1.375 caps aren't the easiest , and pounding on them cant be good for the yoke ears either, Ive done them before where I had to zip cut out the cross and still had a tough time removing them , is there a pitman arm puller or something similar that could possibly work.
     
  2. rjigto4oje

    rjigto4oje PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,294

    I have used a ball joint press. Clamp the ball joint press in a vise, then use some sockets or if the ball joint press kit has some adapters use them. Fyi you may need to hest up the u joint a little. And you may need an air hammer . Depending on how frozen it is.
     
  3. rjigto4oje

    rjigto4oje PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,294

  4. peteo1

    peteo1 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,659

    We put a set of xrf in my brothers 08 dodge ctd and they wore pretty quick, like less than two years quick. I'm not sure what he replaced them with though. I put moog in mine about 18 months ago and haven't had a problem with them yet (knock on wood). Fwiw I used moog u joints on the front end too. The Carli stuff is nice but its a little too expensive for me
     
  5. Whiffyspark

    Whiffyspark 2000 Club Member
    from SOMD
    Messages: 2,402

    Just use moog. Ball joint press for the u joints. Lately I torched the centers out to make it go faster
     
  6. SnoFarmer

    SnoFarmer PlowSite Fanatic
    from N,E. MN
    Messages: 8,540

    They think carli is a god on that fourm.
    I use moog.
    Never used a press....;)
    Axels for just a littel more than u joints you can get
    A rebuilt or a new one from a driveline shop.

    I know on the drive shafts they use this one time nylon locker.
    You will need to use heat befor you can press or drift the cups out.

    The biggest trick is getting the hub loose.

    Ps but then I get 80 a 100k or more out of ball joints and I hop curbs;)
     
  7. jimmycrackcorn

    jimmycrackcorn Member
    from boston
    Messages: 57

    Say, what do you mean a rebuilt or new for just a little more than u joints? I'm sure it's demographic dependant, but how much more?

    I haven't heard anything about the Raybestos stuff, for some reason I've always got the vibe that they are a bottom of the barrel aftermarket manufacturer. I don't know why, just always thought that, maybe it's the name. Kinda sounds like something a China company would come up with. (Yes. I do judge things by the cover,lol)

    I've always thought that the Dynatracs seemed like a good middle if the road option if you couldn't afford the uber hyped $800 SoCal option.
     
  8. Whiffyspark

    Whiffyspark 2000 Club Member
    from SOMD
    Messages: 2,402

    You're wasting your money in my opinion. Anything is going to wear out. We had a carli joint snap in half on a Chevy truck. He got one for free and had to pay for the other one because it didn't break.

    It's a wear item. I used to do my dodge every two years. Just what it was lol. Hub is easy to get off with air hammer.

    Raybestos, like everyone else has several lines. Even the cheapest ones are decent
     
  9. Randall Ave

    Randall Ave PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,980

    Never had a bad problem with Moog. Just sometimes they can steer a little stiff when new. Check Autozone after you figure out the Moog number. Some of there heavier parts are Moog reboxed.
    The best u-joint for my money, Spicer if you can find them.
     
  10. LapeerLandscape

    LapeerLandscape PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,610

    Lots of goos advice, buy the moog. Never buy from someone thats a reboxer like car quest and all the others. They dont make parts they box parts from the manufacture with the lowest bid. Moog is a manufacture and they put their name on the box.
     
  11. jhenderson9196

    jhenderson9196 Senior Member
    Messages: 615

    I put over 250,000 on my Dyna Trac ball joints and they were tight when I sold the truck. I have no idea what he means by buying a new or reman axle for a little more than the price of a joint. Unless he means the one he's smoking.
     
  12. jimmycrackcorn

    jimmycrackcorn Member
    from boston
    Messages: 57

    No kidding, that's a first that I've heard off. I know there is a specific install procedure involved with them & if they aren't done correctly it will result in aggressive wear. Anything is possible I suppose but like I mentioned before, I've never hear of catastrophic failure like that with the $800 SoCal option, they also stand behind they're stuff 110%, you sure it wasnt a Chevy with Dynatraks or something?
     
  13. jimmycrackcorn

    jimmycrackcorn Member
    from boston
    Messages: 57

    Hahaha.. I know, right? I mean a complete axle rebuilt has gotta cost more than a set of u joints, no? Significantly more, no? I'm thinking at least 3 or $400.

    There's a place down the road from me that specializes in driveshafts, maybe I'll look into this. I know come spring I'm prolly gunna want to do ball joints & u-joints.
     
  14. Whiffyspark

    Whiffyspark 2000 Club Member
    from SOMD
    Messages: 2,402

    It was either one. 99% sure it was carli. It snapped clean off and upper control went into the tire. I'll see if I can find a picture maybe you can identify them.
     
  15. SnoFarmer

    SnoFarmer PlowSite Fanatic
    from N,E. MN
    Messages: 8,540

    And there is ...........
    I see your still all butt hurt, you'll get over it.

    Ah Geee Wilber, what does he mean that for a littel more you can get one...?
    I


    Yea, by the time you find a decent u-joint and do the work ,for just a littel more you can get a axel that has been allready rebuilt , ballanced, a true center line, from a drive line shop. They take my core and I get a shaft with a warranty

    So go a head dropthat cap to n the ground,
    , ho did that needel bearing fall in the dirt, ho that bearing was what stoped the cap from going on, is that dirt in there, so you decide.
    I don't like yanking out axels ,
     
    Last edited: Dec 12, 2015
  16. jimmycrackcorn

    jimmycrackcorn Member
    from boston
    Messages: 57

    Huh? Did I miss something?

    You lost me on that one.

    That one that snapped had to have been some off brand or something, Carli doesn't make anything for Chevy. Carlis are stout, I'd expect other things to break before they do, especially in a shear scenario.
     
  17. jhenderson9196

    jhenderson9196 Senior Member
    Messages: 615

    I was only kidding about you smoking but it's obvious your reading comprehension has severely deteriorated. He said front axle joint, not front drive shaft joint. The only butt hurt around here seems to come from you.
     
  18. Whiffyspark

    Whiffyspark 2000 Club Member
    from SOMD
    Messages: 2,402

    He's saying replace the axle shaft. Not have the whole axle rebuild
     
  19. Whiffyspark

    Whiffyspark 2000 Club Member
    from SOMD
    Messages: 2,402

    I texted my old boss.. It was congito uniball. My fault on that
     
  20. Maleko

    Maleko Senior Member
    from Ct
    Messages: 778

    Carli. Bullet proof But very expensive.