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snow sub contractor questions and parts list

Discussion in 'Commercial Snow Removal' started by golfmanres, Oct 23, 2002.

  1. golfmanres

    golfmanres Senior Member
    Messages: 150

    Hello guys and gals. Well today I did preventitive maintenance on my rig and I think I am ready. But i need some advice. I have been offered to sub contract to a rather large company here in Northern Virginia under these conditions:

    The guy told me he has enough work to keep about 140-150 trucks busy. He said about 85 huge accounts here in the area, all commercial lots some totaling 100 acres. He has offered me 55 per hour with a 12hr minimum (i think) and we start at one inch pushing. How does this sound it kinda sounds too good to be true but the other side says that i should be geting more per hour. I need some input.

    Second question.. .
    I have a 7.5 meyer plow with the e60 pump and the mdII mounting system. The guy sugested that i put together a little kit of spare parts (solinoid, springs, hoses) does anyone do this if so what do they keep on hand? what do i need to include in the kit and what breaks the most.:confused: :drinkup:
     
  2. Chuck Smith

    Chuck Smith 2000 Club Member
    from NJ
    Messages: 2,317

    Meyer..... definitely:

    C Coil and valve
    Spare hose with 90° swivel end
    Spare 90° swivel end
    2 trip springs
    3 trip spring adjusters
    2 spare plow mounting pins, with locking pins (not the cotter type)
    2 quarts of Meyer hydraulic fluid
    2 hydraulic couplers
    1 spare solenoid
    Assorted fuses
    1 spare plow guide
    Spare lift chain
    Assorted bolts for the plow
    Wrenches large enough to replace bolts on the plow
    Pipe wrench
    Pocket torch (or propane torch, carried with torch removed from bottle)

    That should keep you covered. Remember, if you are going to be expected to plow in 12 hour shifts, having all this will ensure you can get roling ASAP if a breakdown occurs.

    Look at the motor on your E-60 pump. See if it has a power lug, and a ground lug on it. Meyer changed the design due to the fact that the aluminum pump housing is a bad grounding point for the motor. If you have only a + lug on the pump motor, i would remove and clean the ground wire from the pump housing now, and add some dilectric grease on the connection.

    Definitely change your hydraulic fluid now before the season too.

    ~Chuck
     
  3. golfmanres

    golfmanres Senior Member
    Messages: 150

    i know i have a ground that i put to the mount just to the left of the pump but i am unsure if it is on the motor it self. also how do i change the fluid? can you help? and how much does it take? i got it last year and used it once for five hours.
     
  4. Chuck Smith

    Chuck Smith 2000 Club Member
    from NJ
    Messages: 2,317

    The pin in the bottom of the photo (with the locking ring) is the type you want to use. If you have the type in the top of the photo now, they can be kept as spares.

    ~Chuck

    plowpins.jpg
     
  5. Chuck Smith

    Chuck Smith 2000 Club Member
    from NJ
    Messages: 2,317

    Here is a good overview of how to go about changing the fluid.

    http://www.snowplowing-contractors.com/snowplows.html

    From your description, you have the ground attached to the pump housing. It could become a problem in the future (not to try and jinx you!). 2 (1 qt.) bottles of Meyer fluid should be enough to change your fluid. Buy 3, so you have a spare.

    ~Chuck
     
  6. golfmanres

    golfmanres Senior Member
    Messages: 150

    i see your picture but i dont have any of these pins on my plow i have 4 blue pins and two yellow pins that hold the rig to my truck it is the MDII system from meyer. please inform me where those pins you show are located.
     
  7. Chuck Smith

    Chuck Smith 2000 Club Member
    from NJ
    Messages: 2,317

    These are the pins that hold the A frame of the plow to the vehicle mounting frame. You know, like when you want to remove only the blade from the truck? These pins hold the blade on.

    Maybe they are different on the new design.....

    ~Chuck
     
  8. Triple Amp.

    Triple Amp. Junior Member
    Messages: 19

    I thought I would jump into this one. I just purchased a new Snoway 7 1/2 HT90. I know from other posts on this forum that there were some issues with certain hardware on the plow. What type of spare parts should I keep on hand for this plow in case it breaks down?
     
  9. Ohiosnow

    Ohiosnow Senior Member
    from Ohio
    Messages: 415

    Golfmanres

    Chuck gave you a full list but it all depends on how handy you are or if you need to take it in to the dealer for your repairs. ;) Plus it also makes a BIG difference if you are a cowboy plow idiot or as you should be a more carefull snowplower ;) you should only need just a few of the parts listed (just remember you are being paid by the hr. ). In 25 years of plowing with Meyer plows I needed C-coils, & lost a couple of the old style mount pins with cotterpins & needed some Meyers fluid when I was out plowing.

    It makes a BIG difference if you replace everything that even looks questionable before the plowing season & then check everything before you go out the next plowtime.:waving: And yes you need to check everything each & every time you plow as then you have a 90% chance of not having to try to repair things when you should be plowing ;) .
     
  10. Triple Amp.

    Triple Amp. Junior Member
    Messages: 19

    I think the list that Chuck gave was for Meyer. My understanding is that the Sno-Way is very different because of the down pressure on it. Am I correct to say that?
     
  11. digger242j

    digger242j Senior Member
    Messages: 672

    I'd add to Chuck's list a 1 1/4" wrench, either a deep socket or box wrench. That's the size you need to fit the C valve. If I'm remembering the size correctly....(and I'll be reminded real soon here, cause I need to replace a C valve on my truck.) It needs to be a deep socket or box end because there's not enough room for an open end or big Crescent wrench to fit in there.

    And I can vouch for the fact that *every* part Chuck lists (and some he doesn't), might need replaced in the middle of your route.
     
  12. plowking35

    plowking35 2000 Club Member
    from SE CT
    Messages: 2,923

    Mills catologe and CPW catologe both offer emergency kits for most makes of plows.
    Dino
     
  13. landman

    landman Senior Member
    from NJ
    Messages: 185

    the MD2 plow does not have those pins chuck mentioned dur to the new design the lowe pins is what disconnects the plow from the truck. Also note carry many extra bolts that hold the plow frame together on the truck, the MD2 mounting frame(truck side) is all bolted together in pieces and after a few plows they tend to loosed and wear and eventually snap when you least expect it. We experienced this last year with a MD2 plow we bought for a truck and after this happened as well as the fact that some of the pieces bent on the frame we ordered a ez mount frame and switched over the pump, blade, and made the ploe an ez mount now and we didn't have any problems this year.
     
  14. HandyHaver

    HandyHaver Senior Member
    Messages: 279

    I beleive the pins Chuck was refering to are the pivot pins. They attach the moldboard to the sector. They should be removed, greased & re-installed. I also have they MD2 mount and love it. I put a wrench on "every" nut & bolt when I'm getting ready for the season and them check things out after every use, (only takes a few minutes) Have yet to have a problem with the mounts.

    Try to get yourself a manual or even alot of the parts supplier catalogs have a good breakdown of the whole unit along with the names of everything, very helpful!! Good Luck

    Mark
     
  15. HandyHaver

    HandyHaver Senior Member
    Messages: 279

    After reading Chucks original statement, landman is right, this set up does not have those pins. They have spring loaded pull pins (color coded). You can remove everything by pulling the blue pins, or just remove the blade by pulling the yellow and the head gear stays on the truck. Very simple one man operation.

    :eek:

    Mark