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Sno-Way Plow Questions

Discussion in 'Sno-Way Discussion' started by Krieger91, Jan 1, 2009.

  1. Krieger91

    Krieger91 Senior Member
    Messages: 353

    I know y'all are tired of these, and I'm not even a newbie to the site, but here we go.

    As some of y'all know, I'm looking for a small (6'8" or 7'), lightweight plow for my 1994 S10 4WD Blazer. My options, thanks to low front-end rating, and dealer issues around me, are down to a SnowBear or a SnoWay. I could possibly got with a Fisher Homesteader, but a Fisher dealer, same as SnowBear, is a good hour drive away from me. SnoWay is 15-25 minutes depending on traffic.

    When doing my original research, using SnoWay's QuickMatch setup on their website, they didn't offer a mount for an S10 Blazer, BUT they do offer one for a 4WD S10. Does anybody know if the frame is the same between the two?

    I used their system, saying it was a '94 S10 (because I'm 95% sure the front axle ratings are the same), and their system recomends the ST and MT series, along with the newer 22 Series. I originally wanted to go with the ST 6'8", but when I called my dealer, they told me the ST and MT series are being de-commed and replaced with the 22. Is there a big difference here? Because according to their specification list, the 22 is actually lighter than the comparable-sized ST Series plow.

    My question is do y'all think a 22 Series plow would be a good bet for my little truck IF there is a usable mount for it?

    Also (this question has nothing to do with my truck or the plow): I was looking at the specifics of their plows, and I noticed that most if not all of SnoWay's plows have a chainless lift system. Can somebody explain to me how exactly that system works?
     
  2. toby4492

    toby4492 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,513

    Yes the 22 series will fit your S-10 and takes the same mount as the S-10 Blazer.

    The plow is lifted through a direct linkage system rather than with a chain. This is much easier on the front end of the truck as you are not subject to chain slap that you would normally see when going over bumps during transport. Direct link lift will also allow for higher lifting and stacking then the chain lift models on the market.
     
  3. Krieger91

    Krieger91 Senior Member
    Messages: 353

    Thank you sir. But, if I may probe a little deeper into your knowledge: I don't understand what "direct link" is or how it works? Do you know how it works?

    I guess I could've been more specific: It's obvious how a chain-lift system work. But it's no so with the direct link system. It would seem the system would have to have a pivot point and something to push off/against to lift the plow. Does that make any sense?

    And, finally, does the 22 Series come with DP or is that an added option? If it's an option is it something worth adding?
     
  4. toby4492

    toby4492 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,513

    DP is optional on the plow. IMO it is an excellent tool for the smaller plows. Since they are lighter in weight than commercial plows, the DP will allow you to run comparable cutting edge weights to them. If you choose a gravity system you can not upgrade to DP without purchasing a different power pack.
     
  5. Krieger91

    Krieger91 Senior Member
    Messages: 353

    So, the hydraulics are basically a big scissor jack on the A-Frame of the plow?

    So, from a plowing standpoint, the DP would be a good idea, but I have to get the upgraded power pack, and not the Gravity system?
     
  6. toby4492

    toby4492 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,513

    The DP system is not retrofittable in the field so if it is something that you are interested in you need to purchase the plow with it.
     
  7. tjthorson

    tjthorson Senior Member
    from IL
    Messages: 126

    When I first bought my MT in 2003 - it went on a 1994 Blazer with 165,000 miles on it. I had the 4 door model. That thing was a plowing machine. Eventually the rust got to the blazer too much - and I bought a Wrangler and moved my sno-way plow over to it. I have since bought a larger, more capable Wrangler and moved the plow again.... For summer I can have the entire plow frame off in 20 minutes for off-roading....

    The 22 series is a great plow. i highly recommend the wireless remote AND the DP option.

    On your 94 - if you dont travel far distances - just crank up the front torsion bar adjustments as far as they will go, and put air shocks in back to level the ride out.... be sure to realign the front once you crank up the front. If you are planning lots of extended driving with the plow mounted - investment in some Timbrens will be a wise purchase.

    I would also see if your dealer can put on a poly scraper instead of the metal one. Not sure if you are doing driveways - but the poly scraper is lighter - and more driveway friendly.

    The sno-way people are awesome - and very helpful.... So far I have only been changing fluid on my plow for 5 years now. When it comes tme to purchase again - a Sno-way it will be for sure! As far as downpressure and why you want it - Im sure Basher or Tom can fill you in on the "techy details" - but - when I hit the DP button - the front of my jeep comes up about 2 inches (putting that much force DOWN on the blade for scraping and backdragging. That also shifts some weight to the rear wheels for traction. Some people do - I have never added any ballast to any of my vehicles... Doesnt seem to need it. I am usually plowing typical Chicago 4-10" snowfalls....

    Good luck - and ask away if you have any more Qs. here is my MT on my current Jeep - an 05 unlimited.....

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 1, 2009
  8. Pearcelawn

    Pearcelawn Senior Member
    Messages: 368

    I have been running a 22 on my 01 Ranger for 3 years. Great plow. Buy the DP and the remote.
     
  9. Krieger91

    Krieger91 Senior Member
    Messages: 353

    OK, so what would y'all suggest as a medium? I do all kinds of traveling, odd for a 17 year old I know.

    Most of the time, I just stay around town, the furthest I go is maybe 50 miles. However, I also occasionally go as far as Minneapolis, Minnesota. Now I doubt I would make that kind of a trek with the blade on.

    If I jack the torsion bars up, and beef up the rear shocks, is that gonna make my truck ride funky in the summer? It's already rather stiff, especially in the rear. I probably should've mentioned that it's got the Tahoe LT towing package. Class II hitch, bigger tranny cooler, and I'm pretty sure it's got some beefed up springs.

    And, one other thing, could anybody give me a ballpark figure of the 22 with the Remote and DP? Am I looking at a grand or four kinda thing would be helpful.

    P.S. Thank you all for the valuable information. I've learned more here than from my dealer. They know how to sell their product, but I like having the opinion of guys who actually plow with them.
     
  10. toby4492

    toby4492 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,513

    If it were me I would just throw a set of Timbrens up front and you should be good to go.
     
  11. basher

    basher PlowSite Fanatic
    from 19707
    Messages: 8,992

    Timberns are a must. The shock situation is your call. A good set of HD shocks is never a bad thing in a plow truck, particularly if you carry ballast (as you should). Remember shocks contain motion while timbrens carry load. Another thing to consider is tires. run a good heavy tire, run the highest load rating possible on your vehicle. Often the SUV tires are specified for ride not load.
     
  12. tjthorson

    tjthorson Senior Member
    from IL
    Messages: 126

    Basher is correct in retrospect.... If you are going to drive with the plow on more then me (a few miles at most, I pretty much plow my block - and my inlaws across town) - you will want the Timbrens....

    To answer your questions, cranking up the torsion bars doesnt really affect stiffness of ride, as the "spring rate" of the bar doesnt change - just ride height does. What is can affect when they are cranked up is the ability of the suspension to "drop", since you will be near the end of the suspension flex. if you run the timbrens, you should just adjust the torsion bars to relevel the truck after adding the plow frame.

    For tires, I ran an LT tire - specifically Bridgestone Dueler A/T Revos in the LT flavor. Nice sturdy sidewall, and great all around tire. Check the reviews on tirerack.com - its usually number 1 or 2 in that category. They make a "P" flavor too - get the LTs....
     
  13. s_melchi

    s_melchi Senior Member
    Messages: 183



    I sent you a PM.
     
  14. Krieger91

    Krieger91 Senior Member
    Messages: 353

    So, to summarize your posts: I need to look into a set of Timbrens for the front, and some HD shocks for the rear, and need to look at tires. I'm currently running some Liberator Light Truck All Terrain tires, in the stock size (which I have no idea off the top of my head what that is), and I love them. They've got good tread still, they don't make alot of extra road noise, and I've never had a problem with winter traction (though, sometimes 4WD is necessary).

    Obviously ballast will need to be there, in a small truck like that. Would you guys suggest actually getting ballast blocks, or (to steal somebody elses idea off this site) fill a couple of big Rubbermaid tubs with sand and put them over the axle? Sno-Way says their 22 weighs between 275 pounds for the 6'8" (I don't think a 6' would be a great idea on my truck, seems mighty small), up to 284 for a 7'6", which I would look into. With that in mind, is there any idea of what an acceptable amount of weight over that rear axle would be?
     
  15. Ctll

    Ctll Member
    from midwest
    Messages: 82

    I'd start with however much the plow you select weighs and add more until you feel the traction is right. equal to the plow weigh will help the whole truck squat down instead of just the front form the plow.
     
  16. s_melchi

    s_melchi Senior Member
    Messages: 183

    I have one of these in the back of my Ranger. They work really good. Easy to add and subtract weight.

    http://www.shurtrax.com/

    I wouldn't try and make the counter weight too complicated.
     
  17. Krieger91

    Krieger91 Senior Member
    Messages: 353

    Can't remove post: I answered my own question,
     
  18. larry newman

    larry newman Member
    Messages: 45

    Sno-way is twice the plow that my Western standard was...especially on a liteweight Wrangler setup. The scissor lift is a multiple point action that allows a central hydraulic cylinder with a very short ram to do all the work. Chain slap is gone...I've ripped a mount off of a Jeep this way.

    Down pressure is great. Wireless controls I'm afraid of...see the reports of them not working... I've run Timbrens before, but my Sno-Way dealer says they're not needed with my liteweight setup. Go with what your dealer says. Remember in the long run, it doesn't cost money... it MAKES money !

    This fall there'll be a second Jeep with another Sno-way plow.
     
    Last edited: Jan 3, 2009
  19. tjthorson

    tjthorson Senior Member
    from IL
    Messages: 126

     
  20. JeepTJ

    JeepTJ Senior Member
    Messages: 225

    Hope this helps out!

    Fran
     
    Last edited: Jan 4, 2009