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Sno-way ht series questions

Discussion in 'Truck & Equipment Repair' started by affekonig, Sep 26, 2014.

  1. affekonig

    affekonig Senior Member
    Messages: 909

    I picked up an old ht series and have been having some problems. I thought I had it all figured out today when I hooked up the second brain box that came with it, replaced the motor solenoid removed the pump motor and hooked up a test light in its place. The controller powered up, the solenoid clicked, the test tight lit up...all was good. I pulled the motor because I'd jumped it previously and it didn't turn so I figured it was dead. I have another one on order, but wanted to try the old one one last time as everything else was now working. I hooked it all back up, hit the up button, the solenoid clicked and nothing happened. I tried it one more time for fun and now nothing happens. Is it possible for a bad motor to back feed into the control box and burn something up? There's only one fuse and that's battery power to the module which is still good. No voltage at either signal wire to the solenoid or the red/white wire.

    Main question is: did I fry the control module? Oh, solenoid still works when jumped (removed signal wires and tested straight from a battery). Thoughts?
     
  2. dieselss

    dieselss PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 11,003

    If the motor is bad as you say, it wouldn't do anything in the plow either. As far as blowing the brain....maybe it could.
     
  3. basher

    basher PlowSite Fanatic
    from 19707
    Messages: 8,993

    Does the controller fire up?
    wired or wireless?
    does the red wire w/black stripe have power?
    does the red wire w/white stripe have power?
    A bad motor should not fry a receiver module but back feeding a ground or a bad coil will, particularly a bad lower coil (closest to truck passenger side.)
    Remember that unit is ground side switched, if the receiver module is active there should be power going to all the coils and the 12 volt motor solenoid.

    If it's an old unit, poorly maintained you should remove all the coils from the valves and clean the valve stem and inner barrels on the coil. That white (galvanic corrosion) creates an insulator requiring more power to operate the unit.
     
  4. affekonig

    affekonig Senior Member
    Messages: 909

    The black/red wire has power and the fuse is still good, red/white doesn't, but did. The only variable is the motor. Everything worked fine when the test light was taking the place of the motor. The I hooked up the motor, tried it and lost signal to the solenoid. It's a wired controller that still powers up and blinks when a command is given. Are the two signal wires that go to the motor solenoid vbrown and red/white) supposed to have voltage at rest?
     
  5. basher

    basher PlowSite Fanatic
    from 19707
    Messages: 8,993


    Yes, as I said before this is what they call a low side switched system, that means grounds control everything. you should have 12 volt all the time until you give a command.

    Testing low side switched is reversed from test high side controlled. if it is working properly the test light will be lit when open and go out when closed.
     
  6. affekonig

    affekonig Senior Member
    Messages: 909

    Guess that answers the question and something is wrong in the module. There's definitely no voltage at either signal wire now. If I just wouldn't have tried the motor that one last time... On another note, do you have a Snowdogg mount for a TJ handy? I picked up a nice md75 setup from a 12 Sierra that it looks like I'll be installing on my Jeep.
     
  7. basher

    basher PlowSite Fanatic
    from 19707
    Messages: 8,993

    No on the MD mount, try Jim Corrbett at ESI.

    testing a motor SHOULDN"T burn up a module. check all your power supplies and look for blown fuse or broken wire. is the LED diode on the module lit?
     
  8. affekonig

    affekonig Senior Member
    Messages: 909

    I wouldn't think so and that's what I was hoping to hear, but that is the only thing that changed. It's the 96105084 and I don't see a light on it, but it's getting power (red/black wire, good fuse) and the LED on the controller lights when powered on and blinks when given a command. The two signal wires on the motor solenoid have no voltage and there are no more fuses in the wiring.

    Have any of those 96105084s around?
     
  9. affekonig

    affekonig Senior Member
    Messages: 909

    That reminds me, the red/white wire that connects to a small post on the solenoid is supposed to have 12v at rest and across all the valves, correct? Is the brown wire that goes on the other small solenoid post is also supposed to have 12v? If so, one of those wires would switch to ground when a command was given to activate the solenoid, right? Is it always one that switches or can it be either depending on the command? Thanks for the help!