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Sno-way 26 won't raise - troubleshooting

Discussion in 'Residential Snow Removal' started by ghlkal, Dec 12, 2013.

  1. ghlkal

    ghlkal Member
    Messages: 83

    (A long time ago there used to be a sno-way forum here - maybe an expert is still around to help out :nod:)

    I have a Sno-way Series 26 with down pressure and wired controller, circa 2008. It's worked well with the only issue being mice chewing the wires 2 seasons ago.

    It currently won't lift. It will angle left and right, float (I think), and down pressure works too. The motor/pump "seems" to run when I press up on the controller, but it won't raise. I have two wired controllers and tried each one.

    I've checked all the usual stuff ... fluid level is good; connections are good; no new frayed wires, etc.

    Solenoid C controls the raise function (along with F). I swapped wires from solenoid A (angle right) and solenoid C (raise) and interestingly the plow will raise when I press right. It will only lift once, though. I imagine this might have to do with another connection that needs to be made (maybe solenoid F needs to be energized too :confused:)

    Anyway ... I was wondering about checking the tan wire leading to solenoid C. I've checked it for continuity to the plug (before the "black box") and that looks fine.

    I'm not sure how to check the voltage to the solenoid and ensure it's getting at least 10 volts. Where do I hook up my meter (both solenoid leads? one lead and one to ground? or ?? -- sorry for the dumb electrical question)

    Any advice and/or ideas would be appreciated.

    TIA,

    Gary
     
  2. ghlkal

    ghlkal Member
    Messages: 83

    These images may help

    Motor / Solenoid wiring diagram:
    [​IMG]

    Motor / Solenoid group:
    [​IMG]
     
  3. seahawk

    seahawk Junior Member
    Messages: 13

    usually another solinoid needs to be activated to release the line pressure. I am new to SnoWay myself but I have used this motor manufacture on different equipment. You only are getting one lift on the angle because you have maxed out the pressure. if you find the solinoid to release that I would bet you would get another lift from it. As far as the lift solonoid goes it looks like it works in conjuntion with the float/ down as well. Oh ya check for a stuck valve on the raise solinoid. Any time you move fluid in any direction it has to be able to dump fluid somewhere else, either in the reservoir or another cylinder. So solinoids need to be actuated and in this case two. Just look at the lower left of the diagram above. Looks like C and F with the motor solinoid are activated. Test is done on one wire,or terminal,and the other on the chassis. Anyway, good luck.
     
    Last edited: Dec 12, 2013
  4. ghlkal

    ghlkal Member
    Messages: 83

    Thanks, seahawk, I agree. What -I think- this means is that the hydro and coil for lifting are fine, but there's a problem with the wiring. The tan wire looks OK and has 0 resistance back to the connector. From that connector it goes into a sealed black box, so I'm not sure how to test it from there.


    I'm not sure how to remove the coils (solenoids).

    Thanks again for the help
     
  5. Rick547

    Rick547 Senior Member
    from Indiana
    Messages: 535

    Unplug the tan wire on coil C and tan/white wire on coil F. connect the negative lead of your volt meter to ground and the positive lead to the tan wire. Press the raise button on your controller. Check for voltage. Do the same thing for the tan/white wire. Another way is leave everything connected and take a screwdriver and push the raise button on your controller. Touch the screwdriver on top of the coils and see if holds down the screwdriver tip by magnetism.

    Be very careful operation the blade while you are behind it.
     
  6. ghlkal

    ghlkal Member
    Messages: 83

    Thanks Rick. There's no voltage from either the tan wire (coil C) or tan/white wire (coil F) when raise is activated.

    There is battery voltage from the control terminal (where the tan wires connect) of coil C and coil F to ground.

    I also did swap coil C and B just to see if it was a coil problem - but no luck.
     
  7. seahawk

    seahawk Junior Member
    Messages: 13

    I have a suspision is is the controller. Not to often two wires go out at the same time. Just my thought.
     
  8. ghlkal

    ghlkal Member
    Messages: 83

    There is battery voltage to both connectors of coil C with controller on.

    When I ground the tan wire and activate raise, the plow does raise.

    I have good connectivity on the tan wire from the coil connector to the first wire pack. From there it goes into the "black box."
     
  9. ghlkal

    ghlkal Member
    Messages: 83

    problem solved

    It turns out the problem was a bad control module. (Those things are expensive! :eek:) I replaced it this afternoon and everything works as it should.
    Thumbs Up
     
  10. seahawk

    seahawk Junior Member
    Messages: 13

    Ha....intuition is a wonderful thing!!xysport
     
  11. seahawk

    seahawk Junior Member
    Messages: 13

    Double posted for some reason.
     
    Last edited: Dec 16, 2013
  12. ghlkal

    ghlkal Member
    Messages: 83

    Good call Thumbs Up

    I need to write this up in one clear post; I always appreciate that when I'm searching for something online.
     
  13. ghlkal

    ghlkal Member
    Messages: 83

    Problem solved - for future reference

    December 2013

    Problem: Sno-way series 26 plow would not raise (lift).

    Solution: replace control module (p/n 96105084)

    Background: I have a Sno-way Series 26 with down pressure and wired controller, circa 2008. It's worked well with the only issue being mice chewing the wires 2 seasons ago.

    Detailed Troubleshooting:

    While plowing, I pushed snow up on a stack. When I backed up, the plow would no longer raise (lift). Every other function (angle left and right, float, and down pressure) was fine. The motor/pump runs when I press up on the controller, but it won't raise.

    I have two different wired controllers and tried each one. The plow would not raise.

    I checked all the usual stuff ... fluid level is good; connections are good; no new frayed wires, etc. (Remove the plastic housing over the motor/pump using ½” wrench; there are 4 bolts to loosen)

    Coil C controls the raise function (along with F). I swapped wires from coil A (angle right) and coil C (raise) and interestingly the plow will raise when I press right. It will only lift once, though. I imagine this might have to do with another connection that needs to be made (maybe coil F needs to be energized too).

    I checked the continuity of the tan “control” wire from the coil C terminal back to the connector and it was fine (0 ohms). This is a ground activated system, so the red wires to all coils have a constant 12V and the circuit back to ground on the “control” wire (eg, tan for coil C) completes the circuit and causes the requested action.

    With the power on, there is battery voltage (12.8V) at both terminals of coil C. (Meter leads from the coil to chassis ground)

    I swapped coil C and coil B (removed with ¾” wrench) with the same result – the plow would not raise. (I also kept the wiring constant, ie power to the same terminal).

    I grounded the coil C connection (tan wire) and the plow does raise when commanded by the controller. (A large gauge wire from coil C connector to chassis ground was used).

    I checked voltage from the tan wire to ground with raise activated. There was no voltage (tan wire unplugged from coil C).

    From this I surmised that the hydraulics were fine (motor, pump, etc), but there must be some sort of wiring or control problem – likely between the controller and the coils.

    I purchased a new control module (“black box”) from my local dealer (p/n 96105084) for $350. (Remove the holding bolt above the black box with a 7/16” wrench.) There is a ground lug to be connected to the motor frame.

    There is a connector pack to be connected to the coil wiring. The connector for the controller is taped to the main power cables.

    After installing the new control module, everything functions as it should.

    :waving: