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Smith Series II Removable Chute Procedure

Discussion in 'Ice Management' started by Stan, Feb 27, 2011.

  1. Stan

    Stan Senior Member
    Messages: 579

    The inevitable happens when you or a driver backs into a snow bank and the entire truck is shaking like a blender making margaritas due to a bent shaft. This is great update for several good reasons.
    1) discharging material into a uniform pile
    2) being able to tow a trailer without removing the spreader.
    3) ease of summer storage for a flat surface
    4) able to raise the bed of a dump for better results in wash down.

    The following information is pretty much a step by step procedures. While doing this its a good time to replace the gear box seal, bearings, and speed up the conveyor for better material flow. On these illustrations I have a 48" chute.

    PLEASE DO NOT POST ON THIS THREAD UNTIL I AM DONE WITH THE FINAL PIC
     
    Last edited: Feb 27, 2011
  2. Stan

    Stan Senior Member
    Messages: 579

    Step 1

    Remove the entire chute assembly including the spinner shaft. You may need to smoke wrench the shaft if the shaft is severely rusted which is normally the case. Cut the spinner shaft several inches below the conveyor gear. When removing the chains, make sure YOU DO NOT mix them up! Note their location.
    Here is the old 48" chute assy

    old chute assy.jpg
     
    Last edited: Feb 27, 2011
  3. Stan

    Stan Senior Member
    Messages: 579

    Here is the kit for the conversion

    removable  shaft kit.jpg
     
  4. Stan

    Stan Senior Member
    Messages: 579

    Although not necessary I would strongly recommend this step for improvements and preventive maintenance. Unbolt the gear box bearing bracket. Most of the time the set screws that hold the bearing onto the shaft are impossible to remove and the gear set screws as well. DO NOT torch this off. Simply use a cut off wheel on two sides of the bearing or gear using care by not cutting into the shaft. Use a cold chisel to make the final break/separate the cut.

    gear box.jpg
     
  5. Stan

    Stan Senior Member
    Messages: 579

    Once the bearing and gear are removed remove the key way and dress up the shaft to remove rust. Otherwise when you install the new seal it will be compromised. Clean the perimeter on the gear box around seal area. Remove old seal, grease up new seal and install flush to the housing. Now is a good time to change your gear fluid.
    Install smaller gear from spinner shaft as pictured on the bottom of 2nd pic. Install new bearing onto shaft but just snug set screws on gear for final alignment. Don't forget the key way.

    r&r seal.jpg

    gears on spinner.jpg
     
    Last edited: Feb 27, 2011
  6. Stan

    Stan Senior Member
    Messages: 579

    Once the old bearing and old spinner shaft is removed start assembling the new upper spinner shaft as follows:
    Install the bearing onto the top bracket, leave loose.
    Take the upper spinner shaft and install the locking collar, spring, large gear (from the gear box) and the the larger spinner shaft gear (yellow)
    Slide assemble up through the bearing and just snug to hold for final adjustment.

    reloc assy sm spinner shaft.jpg
     
  7. Stan

    Stan Senior Member
    Messages: 579

    If you have a 24" chute skip this procedure.
    The new chute will include the flapper mount which need to cut and ground smooth. No need to remove the upper retainers.

    mod for 48.jpg
     
  8. Stan

    Stan Senior Member
    Messages: 579

    48" chute:

    Measure 1" from the bottom of the new chute and mark. Take the bottom of the old shaft and line up to to the 1" marks. Make sure when doing this the lower chute is tight to both sides and rear. It may be necessary to oblong holes on the lower chute for adjustment purpose. Bolt up upper and lower chute. Remove the return wiper located in the front of the old chute to the new chute.

    drill holes.jpg
     
    Last edited: Feb 27, 2011
  9. Stan

    Stan Senior Member
    Messages: 579

    Next install 2 new bearings into the new upper chute and leave a little snug but loose enough to guide lower shaft through. Install the shaft through the top of the chute, if the shaft does not easily slide through bearing, grind the lower end where the spinner hub is mounted. Once the shaft is through the bearings position the shaft several inches from the top bearing and snug a set screw on a bearing.

    bearing location.jpg
     
  10. Stan

    Stan Senior Member
    Messages: 579

    Time to mount the hinges. There will be a single/long bore and two smaller bore's. Take the longer of the two and mount to spreader frame. Take note on right side where the hinge slides under the gear box mount. It may be necessary to pry the mount and tap the hinge into place. There is an adjustment on these hinges, make sure a flat washer is present on the ob-longed hinge side. The left side is cut and dry.
    Next bolt up the hinge with two bores onto the new chute.

    rs hinge.jpg

    ls hinge.jpg
     
  11. Stan

    Stan Senior Member
    Messages: 579

    Mount the new chute assemble to the spreader. The pic below is a reference where gears should be located. Keep in mind that spring pressure should be applied to the locking collar which is controlled by the position of the conveyor gear on the spinner shaft. Install the chains and adjust. If you are swapping the gears as mentioned it may necessary to add 2 half links. Don't forget to tighten set screws on bearing and gears.
    Start lining up the lower shaft.
    As pictured the lower shaft needs to be adjusted up. Align lower shaft to be able to connect into locking collar. Start snugging bearings, set screws, hinges

    Back of spreader complete.jpg
     
  12. Stan

    Stan Senior Member
    Messages: 579

    To test operation, remove 1 hinge pin and let it swing down

    chute swung down.jpg
     
  13. Stan

    Stan Senior Member
    Messages: 579

    Grab the handle of the chute and start to position into place. It may be necessary to wiggle the chute into the hinge making sure the locking collar is aligned.

    chute swinging up.jpg
     
  14. Stan

    Stan Senior Member
    Messages: 579

    Apply some never seize on each and of the locking collar and or spray with fluid film.
    I would highly recommend a new spinner hub. While striking the old hub to remove from the old shaft it will distort creating an unbalance vibration. Install new spinner hub and spinner. Grease all bearings, check your conveyor tension, adjust if needed and you are done!

    with this completed update there is no need to use blocking for summer storage. Not to mention the other aspects of this concept. If your budget will allow it is wise to keep another completed assembly on hand for those unexpected moments during the middle of a storm. Simply remove the damaged unit and replace with the spare.


    Here is the finished product:

    finished coversion.jpg
     
  15. Stan

    Stan Senior Member
    Messages: 579

    With the swap of the gear ratio it will gain conveyor speed. The is also an option to convert a series II to a dual speed series IV.
    If you are on a budget the conversion on this thread is the way to go. If you are interested in doing this I am a Smith dealer and will offer discounts to members of plowsite. I can supply you with all the necessary ingrediants to convert your tired gas powered Smith spreader to an electric. If you are located on the Island and would like to do this please contact me. I need a donor.
    Thread is complete, post away!
     
    Last edited: Feb 27, 2011
  16. Dstosh

    Dstosh Senior Member
    Messages: 534

    So in essence this changes your series 2 into a series 4?

    If so...awesome thread. I do need parts to convert. Can you pm me a price?
     
  17. Stan

    Stan Senior Member
    Messages: 579

    This conversion is simply a series 2 removable chute with a modification to add conveyor speed. Although more amps are drawn it is not noticeable. I ran 2 of the series II this season. 1 with and 1 without the gear swap. It was quite noticeable on the consumption which resulted in better time to move onto the next job.
    However if you wanted to convert your II into a IV it is more involved using 2 motors than 1 etc. The series IV has the flip up chute design vs the removable. I did use a series IV this season as well which kicked butt.