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Silverado 2500HD Off Season Concerns

Discussion in 'Truck & Equipment Repair' started by Dougman, Aug 22, 2007.

  1. Dougman

    Dougman Member
    from MA
    Messages: 83

    I've got a 2006 Silverado 2500HD purchased a year ago this month. For plowing, I installed 265 profile Cooper snow tires, front Timbrens and cranked up on the torsion bars just enough to get the height specified by Boss for my 8-foot trip edge plow. Other than not getting nearly enough snow last season, life was good. Plow on or plow off... and with no towing to do... the truck rode great.

    But now it is the off season... equipment and dump trailer towing season for me... and my 2500HD has been driving terribly. It bounces & wanders all over the place and feels like it has no stability at all, especially when towing. The Coopers are off and the weenie OEM Bridgestone 245 profile tires are back on. Before last winter, these OEM tires rode great when towing or otherwise. Now, I barely want to go more than 30 MPH!

    It occurred to me recently...DUH... that this terrible ride must be related to the Timbrens and/or cranking and/or return to weenie tires and/or SOME COMBINATION OF THE ABOVE! Clearly the first step is to crank down... but how much given the presence of the front Timbrens??? And that raises the next obvious question: Should the Timbrens come off for warm weather use??? And either way, how does one return to the original (or otherwise correct) setting for the torsion bars??? Simply reverse the exact same number of cranks I went up??? Or is there an age/wear factor or Timbrens effect to consider???

    Going up was easy because I simply had to achieve a certain height. Coming back down may not be so easy unless I can find some criteria that will tell me precisely how far to go. Or is it just a matter of trial and errror... with a healthy dose of patience???

    Any advice regarding how to get back to a decent & normal warm weather ride would be most appreciated.

    Last edited: Aug 22, 2007
  2. 06HD BOSS

    06HD BOSS 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,611

    The Timbrens are probably not effecting anything. The purpose they serve is to replace the stock chinsy bump stops and are only doing their job when there is a load on your front end (the plow). Yeah if you go over big bumps youll feel them as stiffer compared to the stock ones. But just being on riding down the road they arent carrying any load.
    As for the T-bars you shouldve counted how many turns you cranked them. I did mine 4.5 turns each. I have the same set up as you with the Timbrens and Tbars cranked and towing loaded trailers with the factory tires...but havent experienced anything you have.
    I dont really know about "an age or wear factor with the Tbars".
    Maybe theres something else going on??:confused:
  3. JD Dave

    JD Dave PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 11,032

    Put the Coopers back on and see if it's better or try rotating yor tires to make sure it's not a rim or tire issue. How many threads on the tb bolt are hanging down. Even when your tb are cranked all the way, it shouldn't do that. Rotate the tires is my first guess and have a good look at the front end while the tires are off.
  4. mcwlandscaping

    mcwlandscaping 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,557

    Get wheels balanced first
  5. flykelley

    flykelley 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,124

    Hi Dougman
    If you are hauling a dump trailer and it has a heavy load I would buy a set of airbags for the rear. If you have too much weight in that trailer it will make the truck drive like crap.

    Regards Mike
  6. kuryssnow5

    kuryssnow5 Member
    Messages: 39

    i would check over all your suspension the t-bars and timberns should not affect it at all. does it only do it while towing or all the time?
  7. WildRidge

    WildRidge Member
    Messages: 80

    When you turn your keys up you limit the travel of your factory shock. Easy fix with extenders or longer shocks. After the shock you loose drop out travel between the UCA and frame stop. A bad ride at that point, metal to metal. You also get a bad factory ball joint angle that binds and will wear out fast. Also the factory UCA does not allow for correct alignment spec. most of the time. Cognito along with a few other companies out there make a leveling kit that corrects ball joint angle and alignment specs which will restore the ride quality and save the front end from the added wear from cranking the t-bars. If you crank your t-bars I also would recomend the pitman and idler arm braces along with the tie rod braces. Just be sure to get an alignment done when you've cranked your t-bars.

    I think stock ride height is around 37-38" and cranked should be around 39-41" depending how much you crank them.
    Last edited: Aug 25, 2007
  8. RLM

    RLM PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,270

    Your torsion bars are the proble, turn them down or deal with it. My 2002 has them turned up, it wanders a bit, more when ballast is in the bed & plow off. Dealer checked it nothing wrong, they said it is very common..
  9. nevrnf

    nevrnf Senior Member
    Messages: 456

    If it were me I would set the ride height where you want it for the plow. Now go and have the alighnment checked and set for the empty height it is at now. You will spend more time with the plow off traveling at highway speeds then you do with it on.
    The other thing to check is the tire runout.
    I have Cooper ATR's on 4 trucks. between the 18 tires i have 10 are defective with major runout. I had them balanced with a Hunter Road Force balancer and they are majorly out of spec. Most will balance but are out of spec with the road force. I am trying to deal with Cooper right now as these tires are only about 5-9 months old.