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Secrets to mounting the MM II plow in less than 15 minutes

Discussion in 'Fisher Engineering Discussion' started by avjohnson, Jan 12, 2009.

  1. avjohnson

    avjohnson Junior Member
    Messages: 20

    Hi all, I have a 97 F350 dump with a MM2 plow. I just bought it and am having trouble getting it attached to the truck regularly. One mechanic said the plow frame on the truck is somewhat bent, but I'm not sure that's why I'm having a heck of a time getting it mounted. I've had trouble in the past though so it may be me...

    Anyway here's the situation...

    My basic problem is when I take the plow off, I can never seem to get it to stay at the precise height I need it to be at when I need to put it back on. It always goes down a little and when I try to put it back on I can't line the pin up with the hole in a reliable way.

    Here's what I do:
    When I take the plow off I set it on three four wheel dollies: two under the plow blade and one under the main jackstand that props up the plow frame. I try to set the jackstand at exactly the right height so it's propped up at the same level as it sits when it's mounted on the truck. However, the jackstand holes are in one inch intervals and they never seem to be in the right place for me. To try to get around this I cram shim shinges and boards between the jackstand and the rolling dolly. No matter what I do it never ends up at the right height when I try to put it back on again. It always is too low. It has to be a little low because if it's too high, I have no way of lowering it if you knwo what I mean.

    If I try to use a jack on any of the horizontal frame parts to raise it, the plow just folds up and the hole doesn't move up, it just moves sideways. It seems the only way to make the plow move straight up is to jack directly under the jackstand so only the frame of the plow moves up. But this it awkward and its hard to maneuver the plow around to line up the pins while its on a jack.

    The other day when I was about to throw my sledge through a window I tried something that worked pretty well...I had the pins lined up fairly well and hooked up the wires and raised and lowered the plow to see what would happen. In this case that worked and I was able to slip in at least the first pin easily, then the secnd one went in pretty easily. That procedure worked that time but I'm skeptical if this will help every time...

    There has GOT to be a secret to this that I haven't figured out, any pointers?
     
  2. avjohnson

    avjohnson Junior Member
    Messages: 20

    Did some further research and from what I saw, you're supposed to remove the plow by just putting down the jackstand and removing the pins, then push on the headgear to put it back on. In my case there is no slack on the headgear when I take it off, it's straight up and down. Also, since the jackstand can never go in perfect contact with the ground when you take it off (unless you're very lucky) do you need to smack the pin with a hammer to take it off and have it drop down? That's seems kinda like hacking if you know what I mean..
     
  3. bersh

    bersh Senior Member
    Messages: 169

    When you drop the jack, push the headframe/lightbar sharply back so the jack pin engages a lower hole in the jack. Also, when you go to mount it, tip the headframe slightly forward towards the moldboard and that will lift the pins up as well. The problems you are having are most likely due to the fact that you are using the dollys, as that makes it too easy for the plow to move around as you pull up to it. I drop mine on the ground when I'm done, and when I drive up to it it forces the pin plates to slide up and into the pushplates. This is why they have the large lips that are angled down.

    editing to add that more times than not, it takes me about 1 minute to mount the plow. The hardest part is lining the truck up right, and after you do it a couple times you get a feel for it. I can now drive up to my plow now 9 out of 10 times without getting out of the truck and engage the pins into the pushplates.
     
    Last edited: Jan 12, 2009
  4. harddock

    harddock Member
    from mass
    Messages: 67

    I have a dollie made from a 3'x4' 4wheel and a 2"x6" tail and another caster for the jack. I roll it up the truck, drop the plow on it all the way to float. Push the headgear pack, pull the lever, and pull it away a foot. I un a bungee Through the Y back to the plow unhook the wires and push it in the corner,

    I drive in and make sure all 4 wheels are in the garage, push the plow to the truck, hook up the wires, push it into the lower ears, remove the bungee, rock the headgear untol the pins attach, raise the kick stand and go.

    On or off < 1 minute.
     
  5. OSCLandscaping

    OSCLandscaping Member
    Messages: 32

    Make sure you have enough slack in the lift chain. Should be a spring that pulls your lift piston down. If it's not there the spring may have rusted off. Just float the plow and push on the lift bracket until the piston is fully compressed. This should allow enough slack to be able to move the head gear back and forth.
     
  6. BigDave12768

    BigDave12768 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,446

    Was this plow new? I think I know your problem is. I had same issue and pissed me off for a couple storms. Is the return cable for head unit still there? it goes from triangle to A frame. Its right were the chain is. My cable rotted out and broke. That stopped the head from floating all the way down. Cheap fix Fishers sells for like $20.

    But my way of putting on is get out of truck and push head gear over a bit. You will see it teaters on the jack stand a bit. Drive truck into frame. Get out make sure its lined up. Now I can muscle my plow around a bit becuae it sits on clean cement. Then walk around front grab handle with right hand. Left hand push on the top crossmember. Shake the had unit till pins pop in. Raise jack, connect cables, pray it works, plow snow!
     
  7. avjohnson

    avjohnson Junior Member
    Messages: 20

    Hmm, things are making a lot of sense now. The plate that lift the plow doesn't look right, the piston is always extended out quite a bit. I didn't see any spring there, indeed it is an older plow so may be gone. Soon, I'll take it in to get it checked but it's pretty far away so I haven't done it yet. Thanks so much for the help!
     
  8. BigDave12768

    BigDave12768 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,446

    Dont pay to have anyone look at it. I will snap a pic of the spring return. just go down to your locla Fisher dealer and buy one. $20 part and 10 min fix with simple hand tools, Gota head now will post pics in a couple hours look at page 13 that might help ya

    http://www.fisherplows.com/pdf/26157.09_080106.pdf
     
    Last edited: Jan 12, 2009
  9. BigDave12768

    BigDave12768 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,446

    Are you sure this is a MM2 and not a MM1? can you post a pic?
     
  10. avjohnson

    avjohnson Junior Member
    Messages: 20

    I will post a pic when I get home in a few hrs. On the plow lift plate it says Minute Mount 2, but it is a 97 so must have been added later I guess? Make no mistake this plow was used a LOT based on the amount of rust under the truck. I really like it though so far it's a beast.
     
  11. bersh

    bersh Senior Member
    Messages: 169

    Does it have a single lever to engage both pins, or do you have to do each pin separately? I do know that my MMII is a LOT easier to mount/unmount than my buddy's MMI.
     
  12. avjohnson

    avjohnson Junior Member
    Messages: 20

    I have to do each pin separately. You mean on some you don't have to do that?
     
  13. bersh

    bersh Senior Member
    Messages: 169

    That is a Minute Mount I system. On the MMII there is a single lever that engages both pins, which makes life a LOT easier as you can push on the head unit and get both pins to click all from the front of the plow. Also, as was mentioned above, there is a return cable & spring that attached from the a-frame to the lift plate. When you drop the plow, this will pull down the lift plate and provide the slack you need. You can retrofit this cable to your system pretty easily.

    If you look on the Fisher site, you'll see what the new system looks like.
     
  14. bersh

    bersh Senior Member
    Messages: 169

  15. BigDave12768

    BigDave12768 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,446

    Ok since we now know its MM!. Here is how to take it offf properly. Lift plow up a bit then drop it down and hold down the joystick for about 5 seconds after plow hit the ground. Now hop out and go push down on the triangle so it compress down the lift cyclender. Now you will see the chain is loose. Drop the jack down. Now its always good to have prybar with ya. Stick the prybar into the handle of the pin. Now one or tways to do this. One way you can do it is grab the cross member where lights are and shake head gear while prying out pin. Other is go around plow and use your shoulder to push up on plow and pull pin out.

    Couple things you should also. Put some wheel berring grease or some 5th wheel greese in the pin holes and on the pins. as for putting it on check post above. But yes a small hammer is necissary for taping pins in. Not that they require tons of force. But it gives you that extra reach fromt he front of plow when you pushing up and shaking it

    If your close to Weymouth I can come over and show you

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 12, 2009
  16. avjohnson

    avjohnson Junior Member
    Messages: 20

    BigDave I appreciate your help very much! I'm in Scituate so I'm pretty close if that works out I'd owe you!

    I took some pictures and lets see if I can post them...this is why I thought it was a MM2:

    [​IMG]
     
  17. avjohnson

    avjohnson Junior Member
    Messages: 20

    Here's more:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I appreciate all the help I've gotten (and so will my wife since she's tired of the swearing and hammering in the garage...)
     
    Last edited: Jan 12, 2009
  18. BigDave12768

    BigDave12768 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,446

    Is that a gravel type driveway? is that where store the plow outside. You might be sinking a bit. I am in North Weymouth and my buddies own Marias Sub shop. But I could help you durning the day on Tues/Wed/Thurs this week. I will PM my number to you. I am only 15 mins down the road.
     
  19. avjohnson

    avjohnson Junior Member
    Messages: 20

    Yeah it's a gravel driveway, but I store the plow in the garage (which will help once I figure out how to do it right.) Maria's is the best! It's a small world! My wife taught with Marianne/Mary Ann? last year. I'm probably not going to be around this week during the week days--I have another job in addition to plowing but I hope to catch up with you when possible..I'll talk to you later!
     
  20. snow game

    snow game Senior Member
    from RI
    Messages: 255

    I have always found if you move the plow after dropping it off the truck it is harder to put it back on. If its on gravel or dirt I always put a plank under the "kick stand" length wise so if the plow pushes forward as you are driving into it, the kick stand will stay on the plank yet it will not sink into the dirt. It is necessary to have the lift cylinder all the way down, especially the last time you take it off this spring. You should also have a second chain on the MM1 set up. I always tightened that so the head gear wouldn't fall back if you move it around.