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Sand blasting MM2

Discussion in 'Fisher Engineering Discussion' started by J_Bowers04, Nov 16, 2008.

  1. J_Bowers04

    J_Bowers04 Junior Member
    Messages: 2

    I'm sand blasting my MM2 and was wondering the best way to do so? I was wondering waht to disassemble and waht to leave attached. My first thought was to take every pin nut and bolt off but its so damn rusted i find that to be quite a challenge. My big thing is how to get the pivoting pin out it seems like the only pin in the plow that is not removable? if i could get any tips or tricks on how to make this easier that would be great!
     
  2. RepoMan207

    RepoMan207 PlowSite Fanatic
    from Maine
    Messages: 5,038

    is it a straight 8
     
  3. mercer_me

    mercer_me PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 6,361

    Take a torch and heat it up and when it's cherry red poor diesle on it then heat it up and repeat until it's loose. I know it sounds crazy but it works every time on rusted bolts.
     
  4. RepoMan207

    RepoMan207 PlowSite Fanatic
    from Maine
    Messages: 5,038

    dear lord, I am glad your not working on my stuff.
     
  5. Mayosnowfish

    Mayosnowfish Junior Member
    Messages: 12

    The center pivot pin on straight blades typically get deformed, and are a real PITA to get out. I just removed one from my 9'HD ... came out real easy but looked like a banana. The holes will egg out especially the top hole of above the A frame. I try to remove and inspect the pins annually and replace as needed.
     
  6. RepoMan207

    RepoMan207 PlowSite Fanatic
    from Maine
    Messages: 5,038

    J...I just broke my down 100% , put it on pallets for a powder coating shop to blast and powder coat, paint, and clear. It was a 96' MM 1. I only took the mini torch to it on the upper and lower headgear bolts for but a minute. As far as the blade it self, they are connected by clevis and cotter pins. Nothing special. The only trick to them is of coarse getting the cotter pin either bent back enough to get back through the hole, or cutting it off, Then simply take off the tension where the A frame and plow meet. Alittle wiggling may be required but tap with a hammer on the under side to get it started. You should be able to get your fingers or pry tool under the head of the clevis pin on the top.

    It all depends how thorough you want to be with it, as far as breaking it down. :nod:

    Check out the break down on this application Fisher
     
  7. M&M

    M&M Senior Member
    Messages: 312

    I mentioned this on another thread but I feel I need to say it again. This process takes a lot longer than you would think. I felt like I was set up with the proper tools, blaster, paint, etc. when I reconditioned my old MMI plow. I broke down every little part off the entire blade. Sand blasted the whole blade and headgear. This was the long part. Maybe I had too small of a blaster but the work got old quick and I spent a lot of money on black beauty (blasting sand.) Painting was more costly than expected but was enjoyable. Overall, I said to myself that I would never do it again. Took too much time. It was 3-4 years ago so I forgot the exact cost but my guess would be around $450 for the whole project. I did replace alot of hardware and cutting edge. Lastly, you are cutting it close if you are starting now. I'm not talking about snow but the cold temps can affect your painting plans. Sorry to be negative but I'm just trying to give a realistic perspective.