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Same old E47 angling problem

Discussion in 'Commercial Snow Removal' started by hot_raud, Jul 19, 2004.

  1. hot_raud

    hot_raud Member
    Messages: 39

    Wont go right - goes left instead. Now, I've read as many posts here as I could find. I get power with the green wire, the C solenoid is magnetized. And I can hear the motor running. I pulled out the c-valve and am able to open the valve easily by sticking something up into the valve.

    Here is some more info - maybe someone can diagnose:

    Over the winter, it would go left when attempting to angle right - but usually only a few inches and then jerk back angle right. Sometimes, it'd go all the way left before hitting the truck bumber and then jerking back angling right. During extreme cold, the right side coupler would stick - I figured freezing up. I'd poor hot water on it, and it'd work fine.

    So, I tried changing fluid in the pump and the angling rams. with the moldboard face down and A-frame in the air, I could not budge the A-frame in either direction (hose connected between angling cylinders). I took off the hose and all couplers - still could not budge. I disconnected the angling cyls from the A-frame one at a time and I could move both as long as only one was bolted on at a time. I reconnected the couplers and hose, positioned a hydraulic jack between the moldboard and the a frame. It moved, no problem, but the right coupler was leaking a bit. I also noticed a lot of hydraulic pressure on the right side after attempting to angle right - so much pressure that it was difficult to disconnect the coupler.

    Does this sound like the problem is in the angling cyls, the couplers, the c-solenoid, the c-valve, the crossover valve or something else?

    Thanks
    Al
     
  2. Jerre Heyer

    Jerre Heyer Senior Member
    Messages: 948

    Al, Until you said you removed the couplers I would have said you had dirt or debris in on of the clys and it was blocking a coupler. If you removed hose and couplers and still had the problem then I would put it at bent cylinder(S) or mounting points on the Quadrant to A-Frame assembly or a bent A frame.

    Jerre
     
  3. Garagekeeper

    Garagekeeper Senior Member
    Messages: 459

    I would check the voltage to the C coil first, be sure your getting 12 volts there while you operate the power unit.
    I mean checking with a voltmeter not just a test light.
    If there's isn't enough the valve wouldn't be pulled open.
    Have you tried to operate the power unit with the hose connected to the power unit itself?
    You should have no slow down or deadheading if the valve is operating correctly while angling right, pump should just run.
    If it does operate and not when connected to the plow then I would be replacing coupler sets.
    If it does deadhead then you need to remove the c coil and valve and watch the valve's travel while hooking the coil and valve assembly up to a 12 volt power source.
    It should give a good clicking sound after you have operated it six or seven times if its going its full travel, plus you can see the inner part of the valve move.

    :rolleyes: John..............................................
     
  4. hot_raud

    hot_raud Member
    Messages: 39

    Jerre,
    So, I should have been able to move the A-Frame by hand back and forth with the hose connected? Like I said, I could barely do it with the hose disconnected and only one cyl bolt to A-Frame at a time.

    Al
     
  5. hot_raud

    hot_raud Member
    Messages: 39

    John,
    what does deadheading mean? I'll check again, but I'm pretty sure my voltmetter (digital read-out) was approaching 12 volts) I did notice, though that there wasn't a whole lot of magnetism on the c-coil. Can I swap the C coil (and valve for that matter) with the B coil and valve? Are they the same? If so, maybe I could swap them and then see if I have the same problem. If I do, then it probably is not a coil/valve/current problem, right?

    Al
     
  6. Tommy10plows

    Tommy10plows Senior Member
    Messages: 345

    That is why I only used Hydraulic belt driven pumps. Who would want to deal with these problems in the middle of a snow storm, or in advance of a snow storm. Belt driven is the most reliable system known, and as far as I am concerned Monarch Road Machinery makes the best pumps and valves.
     
  7. Flipper

    Flipper PlowSite.com Addict
    from CT
    Messages: 1,180

    I like the belt drives to. I even still run one. However we must realize that no one offers this system anymore and that most newer truck cannot even fit such a system. That being, he asked for help for a specific system. We do not need to critisize why he has it. Lets help him figure out the problem.

    By deadheading, John wants you to connect the two angling ports together, just use the hose and quick connect. Then run the pump. You should see the hose tense a bit when the pump kicks on and then the pump sould run with no effort as it just circulates the fluid. If not then you have an internal bind.
     
  8. hot_raud

    hot_raud Member
    Messages: 39

    When angling ports are connected to each other on the pump, it runs just fine - although I can't tell which way fluid is flowing. I figured I could test the bent-angling-cylinder theory by just swapping cylinders. I think I can test the C-coil by swapping it with the b-coil and the same is true with the c valve and b valve. I can check the switch by testing for voltage at the C-coil. I can even swap the couplers to see if there is a difference. The only thing I can't isolate in this manner is the crossover valve - but then, by process of elimination, if I still get the same behavior after doing all this swapping, plus the voltage test and deadhead test, I can assume that the crossover valve is the culprit. At least I *think* so....
     
  9. hot_raud

    hot_raud Member
    Messages: 39

    Thanks everyone - looks like the problem was the coupler on the right side.
     
  10. Garagekeeper

    Garagekeeper Senior Member
    Messages: 459

    Those couplers will do it every time.
    It's to often that power units are torn apart and valves replaced when a simple thing like a coupler is to blame.
    You almost have to look at couplers as yearly maintenance replacement items.
    Glad you got it up and running.
    :rolleyes: John.....................................