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saber lights again

Discussion in 'Meyer / Diamond Products Discussion' started by nbuzz, Aug 24, 2008.

  1. nbuzz

    nbuzz Junior Member
    Messages: 24

    I am curious if there is a way to bypass the control modules & fact. harness for the saber lights, because i am trying to be cheap and not buy the light harness for my truck since i know for a fact that the older lights can be put on an independent sys w/ a switch. i just like the sabers alot better. thanks guys for any input.
     
  2. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    Sure it's possible. You only have the lights...not the modules and related wiring?

    What kind of truck?
     
  3. nbuzz

    nbuzz Junior Member
    Messages: 24

    I bought a used plow from an estate sale. it came with the plow wiring+control but no light harness. its going on a 97 dodge 2500.
     
  4. basher

    basher PlowSite Fanatic
    from 19707
    Messages: 8,992

    And you're willing to cut the trucks harness?
     
  5. nbuzz

    nbuzz Junior Member
    Messages: 24

    I have no problem splicing into the harness. I do want to be able to remove the bull horn though.
     
  6. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    If your good with wiring you can build the entire headlight harness from scratch as thats the only way its going to be "cheap" and "possible" at the same time.

    You can purchase the replacement harness and related parts to make it a simple plug and play if you not good with wiring...but not "cheap".

    I'm not a big fan of chopping into harness's on the later model trucks but with the proper knowledge and good wiring techniques it can be done on the classic bodied Dodges.

    Any good with wiring and diagrams?
     
  7. basher

    basher PlowSite Fanatic
    from 19707
    Messages: 8,992

    That will require either changing the plugs on the night sabers :)nono: maybe the best part of the light) that means weathertech plugs got the tools? You'll need to find a source for that as well.

    Do you already have the Night Sabers?
     
  8. Nascar24

    Nascar24 Senior Member
    Messages: 645

    Hi

    IMHO You would be better off buying a new set of universal set of headlamps and selling the Saber lights, you'll break even or make a a bit on the sabers,

    Heck I'll trade you a set of new universal headlamps if your sabers are in good shape!

    Jay
    508 753 6617
     
  9. Ford_7.3_meyer

    Ford_7.3_meyer Junior Member
    Messages: 24

    I have a similar problem. I got the plow last year, it came of a 01 3/4 Chevy and I have a 90 3/4 Ford. it didn't come with the complete harness, so I wired it with two switches one for hi beam and one for low but I ended up frying them so I called Meyer and thy said you can't wire direct:confused: are thy trying to make money? Or is that true? If yes, how many amps should the switch be? Thinks guys
     
  10. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    You can wire them "direct" (your terminology), but you must use a 25 amp switch (at least) in order to handle the load.

    But powering them with under hood relays is a faaaaaaar better method. Thats basically all the Meyer light modules are btw.
     
  11. Ford_7.3_meyer

    Ford_7.3_meyer Junior Member
    Messages: 24

    Thanks B&B. But Could you explain how I could wire with relays? I've never wired one before. How would it work with high and low beam?
     
  12. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    Since you have it somewhat "hardwired" already you can use a few of the existing wires you've already run to your interior switches to make it the easiest. Use a 25amp fuse in your 12V supply wire thats suppling power to the relays from the battery, and 5 amp fuses powering each switch. Use this diagram:

    relay diagram.jpg
     
  13. Ford_7.3_meyer

    Ford_7.3_meyer Junior Member
    Messages: 24

    Thanks! But how would I do high & low beam? How many amps should the switch be? And is their a certain type of relay I should buy?? Thanks a lot!
     
  14. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    For the hi's and lows just use the diagram X 2, one for lows and one for hi's. Any generic Bosh style $4 relays will do the job.

    With the relays now handling the current draw you don't need a hi-amp rated switch...a low amp switch will do. Good thing to use would be a single pole double throw type switch. This way you only have one switch to run both beams. (hi & low) Look for a three position switch that off-on-on. That way you can switch from lows to hi's without going thru a "center off" position. Prevent the light from momentarily going outs.
     
  15. Ford_7.3_meyer

    Ford_7.3_meyer Junior Member
    Messages: 24

    Thanks again B&B!!
     
  16. nbuzz

    nbuzz Junior Member
    Messages: 24

    bumpin it back up... I know its been awhile. I got a little side tracked:dizzy: I had way too many leaf jobs. I wanted to say thank you to all you guys who contributed to this thread, especially B&B! On that note... I have two more questions.

    i have roughed in the wiring+relays. I haven't put the switches in yet because I wanted your input on this; I want to know if I wire the highs & lows on separate switches can I run both the high/low beams at the same time?

    my only concern is heat and the plastics on the sabers... but I did wire my old ranger up similarly to keep the lows on when the highs were flipped on. I think it'd be sweet lighting if this is possible.

    #2 would it be ok to use trailer light quick connects on these lights so i can still remove the bull horn without cutting my soldered & heat-shrink connections?


    THANKS GUYS!
     
  17. nbuzz

    nbuzz Junior Member
    Messages: 24

    Oh yea... one more. the Blue wire on the saber lights.. called "common" that's the ground for the headlights right?
     
  18. basher

    basher PlowSite Fanatic
    from 19707
    Messages: 8,992

    Yes you can. I recommend that you use plastic molded connections and keep them well Di-electriced. Use a heavy power and ground plug, Snoway, Meyer, The DD twins all run a seperate power harness you can jutilize.
     
  19. basher

    basher PlowSite Fanatic
    from 19707
    Messages: 8,992

    Correct "commen" is electrical engineer for gound. the battery is almost always the best
     
  20. nbuzz

    nbuzz Junior Member
    Messages: 24

    THANKS basher! I'm being stubborn about it. But yes the highs and lows will be on their own relays. what type of trailer connection are you talking about?