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Discussion in 'Commercial Snow Removal' started by finnegan, Jan 5, 2001.

  1. finnegan

    finnegan Senior Member
    Messages: 313

    whats the best way to stop rust before painting steel?

    thanks in advance....
  2. Rooster

    Rooster Member
    from Kansas
    Messages: 650

    Try this web site, the stuff really works.


    Let me know how if how it works for you. If you decide to use it.

    P.S. I have no financial interest in this company.
  3. SlimJim Z71

    SlimJim Z71 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,031

    I would think, the best way to stop rust, would be to start with a VERY good coat of primer. If you make sure the surface is prepped right, and then coat the whole thing with a good coat of primer, followed by several good coats of paint, it should last quite a while...

  4. MJ

    MJ Senior Member
    Messages: 129

    Finnegan - same techniques as used in auto body repair. Sand to bare metal and remove ALL rust and smooth out pits. Sand to at least 2" beyond the rusted area. Smooth the area with a finer grit sandpaper. Remove all dust. Spray with a good quality primer. Let dry. (I use a 2nd coat of primer - most don't). Make sure primer is dry. Then spray with a good guality paint. Use as many coats of paint as you care to, making sure each coat is dry before adding another. For a good, quality job I usually apply 3 coats of paint. Then lacquer if you want for sealing paint and add shine. Wax for protection and to keep off snow.

    Hope this helps.

  5. Yardworks

    Yardworks Senior Member
    Messages: 143

    There is a product that turns rust into a hard black substance that is sandable and paintable. I've used for a few thing and it seems to convert the rust and stop it from coming back. The only problem is I can't remember what it was called. The first stuff I used was in a squeeze bottle. It was a mess and hard to apply. The last stuff I got was in a aerosol can. That is what I would recomend. It was easy to apply.
  6. finnegan

    finnegan Senior Member
    Messages: 313

    one of the old locals around here said that he used 1 part muratic acid to four parts water and that eats the rust away down to the metal, anybody tried this?
  7. Chuck Smith

    Chuck Smith 2000 Club Member
    from NJ
    Messages: 2,317

    Hmmmmm, saw a 55 gal. drum in the chemical room at work the other day. It said "Acidene" on it. "Rust and scale remover". Now I'll have to read the label, and see just what kind of acid is in it. It might be muratic acid, but in my experience, muratic is used to etch concrete before applying paint or sealer.

  8. frogman

    frogman Member
    from MD
    Messages: 53

    One of the products that turns rust into a black sandable primer is called Extend. You can find it at Auto-zone, Pep Boys, Wall-mart .I've used it quite a bit over the last several years. It stops the rust from continuing the oxidation process (must be top coated, to last). I'd go with Mick's suggestion just use this before priming and prime with only one coat.

  9. Chuck Smith

    Chuck Smith 2000 Club Member
    from NJ
    Messages: 2,317

    Turns out the packaging slip was still taped to the 55 gal drum of "Acidene". Along with the MSDS.

    There are 2 ingredients listed. One is water, 82%...

    The other 18% is HYDROCHLORIC ACID.

    The instructions say to dip the parts in the solution, and promptly rinse with lots of water. It says it can be brushed on too, then rinsed. A respirator, rubber gloves, and a face shield are MUSTS. I should have know it was potent stuff on metal considering it's in a plastic 55 gal. drum.

    ~Chuck aka "toxic paint guy" and now "acid guy" too I'm sure.. ;-)
  10. plowguy06

    plowguy06 Member
    from Ohio
    Messages: 84

    i know this is a somewhat dumb reply, but do poly plows ever get rust or anything like it?
  11. Alan

    Alan PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,393

    If it wasn't for the surface roughness, I'd get my plows galvanized. Pricey, but permanent. There's also the idea of having a silver blade to reflect light back into your eyes that would be a pain for the first year. After that it would be dulled down to a nice satin gray. Used to be a place in Everett, MA that did galvanizing in colors. That might be the way to go,, just might be worth looking them up and dealing with them, they used to have pretty much of a butthead attitude. Seems like that would take care of rust on the A-frame and semi-circle on that Western I'm bringing back from the dead.
  12. Dusty

    Dusty Member
    Messages: 82

    I have used a paint on antique car frames that is brushed on. It comes from a dealer in Newark NJ called Bill Hirsh. It works better than extend and POR 15. It needs to be top coated, but it works well and lasts forever.
  13. Bill c

    Bill c PlowSite.com Veteran
    from ny
    Messages: 85

    Dusty,I am interested in buying some of that paint,I was giving a can a few years ago and it has held up great on my trailer.If you would email me or post here the dealer it would be much appreciated.
  14. Chuck Smith

    Chuck Smith 2000 Club Member
    from NJ
    Messages: 2,317

    Hmmm, Bill Hirsch? I'm 2 min from Newark. I'll have to look in the yellow pages. Was that paint by chance Mastercoat?
    I have used it before, great stuff, but HIGHLY toxic.

  15. 75

    75 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,382


    I like Alan's idea of galvanizing your plow. As a welder by trade, we build a lot of things that end up getting galvanized. Some years back we built a roof rack for one of our trucks out of 1-1/4" square HSS (Hollow Structural Section - tube) and galvanized it. No more rust problem. A couple of things to keep in mind if you send something in for galvanizing: The surface must be clean, so sandblasting all the old paint and rust off would be required. The other major consideration is venting. Galvanizing essentially involves dipping the part in molten zinc. Any sort of closed in area (tubular sections used on some plows come to mind) or corner (where the ribs meet the top angle on the moldboard for example) must have a hole or holes to allow the heated air to escape when the part goes into the zinc and to permit the zinc to drain out when the piece is lifted out of the tank. Without this venting, the result will be a rough, incomplete galvanizing job and there is also the risk of the superheated air (steam if any moisture is present) causing damage such as blowing out seams in the tubing. The shop that does galvanizing work will know what is required in the way of venting - speak to them for specifics! (Every job is different) You can paint the finished product too if you like, but you will have to do some extra surface prep to assure paint adhesion. I admit that with regard to the cost of having a plow galvanized I am "in the dark" - perhaps someone out there would have an idea? Still, this galvanizing idea has me thinking...

    [Edited by 75 on 02-04-2001 at 09:40 PM]