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Running Cables for old Western Plow

Discussion in 'Western Plows Discussion' started by 68scout, Dec 7, 2009.

  1. 68scout

    68scout Junior Member
    Messages: 12


    I have an old (year unknown) Western 6.5 with Cable operated pump. I believe it is a Mark III

    I only do residential plowing, mostly for fun, since we don't get much heavy snow here in NC
    I got the plow mostly because I've always wanted one since I'm originally from Syracuse NY and because at $150 for the whole setup it was too good to pass up. It originally went on an S10 but I cobbed it onto my 1968 Scout.


    Sorry this next pic is so big, photobucket won't let me resize it...even after 4 attempts it crashes firefox each time...anyway this is a close up of front.


    and blade up (can't resize this either)


    The left and right rams are shot, so for this season since I do light duty I removed them and plan to replace them with some used but serviceable leftover Automotive shocks to keep the sway down when it is up, and then just use the Clevis pin and angle it left and right by hand. Annoying for now, but with light use I can live with it for now.

    The Cables that came with it seem to work, but the Solenoid is shot, and the one of the clips on one cable is broken where it "snaps" into the joystick.

    My biggest question is the cables just seem to be to long. How does one wrap and manuever them into the cab? They reach almost to the back seat. I was thinking this year of just getting a ford solenoid, cobbing that to a switch in the cab, and using only the "up/down" cable. Would it be possible to replace the original. cables with like a manual choke cable? That would give me push pull in the dash for up/down.

    I don't want to "hack" anything permantly as I plan to eventually get new rams and hook it all up. However it's an old plow, was sitting a long time, and I am worried about overall motor and center ram condition. It works, and lifts up and down, but the ram has a little bit of speckle rust around the top (I sanded and cleaned as best I can) and I know that is not good for the seal. It doesn't leak yet however

    Sorry to Ramble...would really appreciate critiques and comments as I am brand new to all this. I'm lucky to get 6" when we get the worst down here, so it isn't going to see a lot of heavy duty.

  2. twinman326

    twinman326 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,683

    I found this pdf off of western site. I am not really familiar with cable operation pumps. The last page will show you the cables (#100 is the number shown). It has a number for a short version cable 7 1/2, and the standard cable 9'. It seem like you cannot shorten the cables, because it look like it has a compress end on the cable that goes to the pump (I might be wrong). The relay for the plow don't cost that much..Something like 20.00 or maybe less.

    Here is the link (look on the last page)
    short version pdf http://www.westernplows.com/pdf/13497_020088.pdf

    Long version pdf (more info)
  3. twinman326

    twinman326 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,683

  4. 68scout

    68scout Junior Member
    Messages: 12

    I appreciate the PDF links. I already looked at those on the western site. The manual mentions no more than 8 degrees bending the cables and thats it about the cables pretty much.

    I'm pretty sure I have the long ones.

    The cables are also pretty stiff. The do move, but since I have never seen one of these before in good working condition I have nothing to compare it too. I suspect they need replacement. I'm going to remove them today and if they are the same connections then I am going to cut and shorten one and try and fab it into a simple knob in the dash I can pull in and out like the choke operates. That will give me Up/Down control.

    If that doesn't work out I'll still have the other cable to start at square one for up/down again. Sided to side is not on the menu this year as it needs new rams and hoses and quick connects. Just going to move it by hand if I need for now.

    I picked up a ford solenoid for $8 yesterday. I'm in the process of finishing up the dual battery wiring (with Isolator) and that way the plow will be on it's own battery and separate from the scouts battery. Once I finish that I will be able to wire in a push button to raise and then the knob to lower. It will still be operable by one hand.

    I think that should work for now. I would rather fix it right, preferably replace the whole front unit with an electric one, but moneys tight and I can live with UP/Down for now.

    Besides I know once I do all this work and get it right then we won't get any snow this winter :D

    Maybe someone can chime in who has a cable plow and give me an idea on how much (or little) resistance should be on the cable?

    Thanks for the links

  5. Kevin58145

    Kevin58145 Junior Member
    Messages: 24

    I have a cable operated western too and have the same problem I'm not sure if they're to stiff of if that's how they're suppose to be I too suspect I need a new set of cables cause sometimes I have to pull the joy stick back to the neutral position when moving left or right and the cables are ran basically in a straight line to the pump with little curve in them at all.long story short I seek the same info hopefully some one knows
  6. 68scout

    68scout Junior Member
    Messages: 12

    Hi Kevin,

    I figured it out...they are supposed to be very easy to move. I took them both off and figured since they were exactly the same I had nothing to lose by cutting one.

    The left/right cable moved very easily. The Up down cable was the stiff one. Since I am Codging this whole assembly anyhow I went ahead and cut the stiff one to the length I would need to put a "push/pull" knob in the dash in a straight line with little curving.

    After I cut it I could pull the cable out of the sleeve. (I cut the joystick end off) I found the center cable had a kink in it that was causing it to bind up some right about 2 inches above the end. I straightened it out with needlenose and lubed the interior sleeve and put it back together and its smooth. I ran it into the dash and I can now lower from inside cab. All I have to do is brace the cable and install some kinda knob.

    So you probably need new cables. What I learned was that even though the outer cable doesn't look kinked and your bends are smooth you might have a kink internally you can't see. I did. You might also be able to lube them...if they can come out easily hang em upside down lengthwise and keep dripping 3 in on oil (or something better) down them for a few hours (or use compressed air to force it down, I did to speed it up) and see if that helps.

    For those interested, the cable on these older plows are made up as follows:

    Rubber/Plastic outer shield
    Metal coil
    under that are 16 straight galvanized or stainless wires
    inside that is a plastic sleeve
    inside that is a solid stainless "wire" and this is the piece that moves in and out

    I can take a pic if anyone wants to see it

  7. Kevin58145

    Kevin58145 Junior Member
    Messages: 24

    Hey thanks for the info I figured I need cables its a pain is the rear having to pull it back to the neutral position, I'll probably pick some up today I'll post after I install with my findings probably gonna cut the old cable to see where its jamming up.