1. Welcome to PlowSite. Notice a fresh look and new features? It’s now easier to share photos and videos, find popular topics fast, and enjoy expanded user profiles. If you have any questions, click HELP at the top or bottom of any page, or send an email to help@plowsite.com. We welcome your feedback.

    Dismiss Notice

Rims rusted to the truck

Discussion in 'Chevy Trucks' started by BPK63, Oct 10, 2011.

  1. BPK63

    BPK63 Senior Member
    from CT
    Messages: 244

    I wanted to rotate the tires on my 92 K1500 before winter and I can't get the rears off. I soaked up all the lug nuts and got them all off. With the lugs off the tires won't budge. I tried a 5 pound slide hammer but no luck. Any ideas before I have to take this thing to the garage? I hate to go to the garage.
     
  2. Too Stroked

    Too Stroked Senior Member
    Messages: 555

    Put the lug nuts back on, then loosen each of them about 1-2 turns. Then go out and carefully beat the crap out of the truck for a few minutes. You'll hear them loosen right up. In fact one hard start might be enough. Make sure not to drive too far with the loose lug nuts though.
     
  3. trqjnky

    trqjnky Senior Member
    Messages: 620

    that, do a couple figure 8's...

    or hit the lip of the rim from the back side with a sledgehammer. i have to do that all the time at my shop, farmers trucks seem to rust together horribly.
     
  4. coldcoffee

    coldcoffee Senior Member
    Messages: 776

    Common problem. I use a 20# sledge after soaking (from the back side) where the rim meets the axle. Make sure you use stands, but I also use 6x8 wood blocks for extra piece of mind...don't ever rely on a hydraulic jack. Not so hard that you bend the rim, but start by wacking the rounded edge above the bead. Rotate the wheel as you continue. It may take several tries, but eventually it will break loose. A big rubber mallet would probably be safer for the rim...but I'm not that patient.

    Apply some anti-seize lube on both surfaces before reinstalling.
     
  5. goel

    goel PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,079

    Beat it off with a 4 ft 4x4
     
  6. rick502

    rick502 Member
    from Vermont
    Messages: 54

    BPk63. X2 on sledge if steel wheels. If you have aluminum alloys be much more careful. I do not recommend you loosen lugs and drive truck, puts a lot of stress on lug studs.
     
  7. BPK63

    BPK63 Senior Member
    from CT
    Messages: 244

    I tried one wheel tonight backing off the lugs and driving it in circles around the driveway. Not a great feeling doing that but the wheel still did not budge. Been soaking the centers with pbblaster for a couple days now. I have not hit it from the back side with a hammer yet. Maybe I'll try that tomorrow. I've never had wheels stuck on like this before but I guess it's common. I used a 5 pound slider hammer for 15 minutes and all I did was straighten out the hooks on it. The rim has slots all around it where I could insert the heavy hooks but I just straightened them out. Rims are steel.
     
  8. rick502

    rick502 Member
    from Vermont
    Messages: 54

    It is common, sledge should work be safe and good luck. Let us know
     
  9. Too Stroked

    Too Stroked Senior Member
    Messages: 555

    I'll fully agree that you've got to be careful here, but think of the damage whacking a wheel repeatedly with a 20# sledge can do. Get my drift?
     
  10. coldcoffee

    coldcoffee Senior Member
    Messages: 776

    The heavier the hammer the better. Not saying a 5# won't work, but I can usually pop a steel rim w/ about 3-5 wacks.
     
  11. coldcoffee

    coldcoffee Senior Member
    Messages: 776

    For myself, I find that the less number of strikes the better. Smaller hammers can require a lot more strikes, then those strikes tend to get sloppy. Unless your on a lift, it's a bit awkward of a swing.
     
  12. rick502

    rick502 Member
    from Vermont
    Messages: 54

    I use a 4 pounder and start in near the hub. If that doeasnt get it I rotate the tire while striking the bead. Never had to use more than that. Insert your own size joke here. ;)
     
  13. cosgo

    cosgo Member
    Messages: 63

    Get a big sledge like others said. Also, If you're careful, you can add some heat to it. If you havent done it before, then i dont recommend it.... and again, add some antiseize before putting it back together - apply right to the face of the hub.
     
  14. Way back I had a job in the tire changing section of the automotive department at Lechmere. (yes, way back when!!) When we had the situation described we would take another mounted tire and throw it, like a frisbee, on it's side, directly at the bottom of the tire that was frozen on the hub. The frozen on tire needs to be about 3 inches off the ground. 9 times out of 10, the force would snap it loose. Sounds stupid but it works.....
     
  15. BlizzardBeater

    BlizzardBeater Senior Member
    from Maine
    Messages: 420

    Do not run the truck with loose lug nuts, trust me. I've seen people do this. You more than likely will not hurt yourself, but I have replaced studs before for people because the wheel did pop loose and sheer the studs. A very large sledge, like a 20#, to the back of the rim will get it off. If they are alloy rims or you are concerned about damaging them, stand a block of wood up against the back of the rim and hit that. They key to this is not to be gentle, you really need to wail on it.
     
  16. MikeRi24

    MikeRi24 Senior Member
    Messages: 563

    CRC Aerosol makes something called Freeze Off or Freeze Your Nuts Off...something like that.It makes some kind of chemical reaction with metal and rust that makes it so cold it supposedly breaks the rust and frees things up. It works great I use it all the time for extremely rusted bolts. Anyway, it comes with e spray needle, use that and stick it right down in between the wheel spokes and soak it around the studs or as close as you can get. blast the outside of the studs and around the center ole as well. You spray it on steady (use a lot of it) and let it soak for a couple min and the whack the tire (not the rim) with a dead-blow hammer. Should pop it off. When I was an oil change monkey at a Chevy dealer a few years ago, we used to do that routine with great success.
     
  17. mayhem

    mayhem PlowSite.com Addict
    from Peru MA
    Messages: 1,016

    Soak it overnight from the backside and then smack a block of wood thats held up to the bacside edge of the rim. I would not advise hitting the rim directly with a sledgehammer. Too risky of either bending the lip or cracking it if they're alloys.

    Or smack it from the inside on the tire itself...hit it as hard as you like.

    When you finally get it off, use some emery paper and get the bulk of the rust off the mating surfaces and coat the whole area and the studs with anti-seize compound. Then reassemble.
     
  18. the new boss 92

    the new boss 92 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,989

    mine were like this on my 2500. i got a buddy over and we kept kicking the sidewalls of the tire, it wouldnt budge. i got real pissed and nailed the top of the tire and it poped right away!
     
  19. BlizzardBeater

    BlizzardBeater Senior Member
    from Maine
    Messages: 420

    Dont put anit-seize on wheel studs, it makes it very easy to overtighten wheel studs.
     
  20. KBTConst

    KBTConst Senior Member
    Messages: 426

    If it is steel wheels heat the rim around the drum it does not have to be red hot just enough to expand it then hit on the back side with the 3 lb hammer it will pop right off. I have done plenty of them this way.