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Reskinning my plow- where to get a skin?

Discussion in 'Truck & Equipment Repair' started by justme-, Jun 28, 2007.

  1. justme-

    justme- 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,138

    I have decided I need to reskin my blade this season instead of patching the holes (they seem to have multiplied over last winter from 1 to 7!)

    Where do you guys reccomend getting a skin? Are there pre made skins? Suggestions?
    It's for my MM1, 8 footer. Toying with the idea of a Stainless skin.....:nod:

    I need to rebuild this blade this year, or look at changing the blade out for next season. (does a MM2 blade fit a MM1 lift frame?

    Any and all suggestions welcome....
     
  2. wild bill

    wild bill PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,239

    new skin

    are you going to put it on,or do you need to have it done.either go to a fab shop and have them make a new skin and install it .or get a sheet of 12 Gage steel and install it your self no premade ones available unless you can sweet talk a plow mfg to cut a weldment out of the production line,if a dealer will do a little leg work for you!
     
  3. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    Here's a good tip if your going to do the install yourself, have the fab shop curl the sheet for you too in their press brake. A pre-curved sheet is MUCH easier to fit/install verses a flat one.
     
  4. justme-

    justme- 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,138

    I'll be doing it myself- cutting the old skin off and welding in the replacement anyway. I can't imagine a fab shop reskin costing less than a new blade by too much...:dizzy:

    I also have to say, I know several machine shops, and a couple sheet metal shops, but noone with the capability to roll 12 ga. Any tips for one in central Mass?
    I'll have to talk to my local Fisher dealer too.
     
  5. basher

    basher PlowSite Fanatic
    from 19707
    Messages: 8,990

    If the blade is structurally sound why not cover it with a poly sheet? They are available from a number of suppliers.
     
  6. Sharpshooter77

    Sharpshooter77 Senior Member
    Messages: 162

    justme- I have a way you can do it. I live down here in Somerville, ma. The local Somerville High School has 12 gauge rolling capabilty. All you have to do is pay for the material that is used. You can even bring the plow down to them and they will cut the old skin out and bend up a new one and weld it in and it will be good as new. I know the the Metal Fab and Machine shop teachers over there very well and they wouldn't have a problem doing it for you. And they do great work I have had a few of my trucks repaired in the auto shop and have had some diaman plate bent up in the machine shop. let me know what you want to do.

    Shane
     
  7. Ole Tower

    Ole Tower Senior Member
    from MAINE
    Messages: 210

    reskinning a Plow Blade

    I have Re-paired & built several Fisher Plows--a Local Steel Co supplier T.W DICK CO--can furish the Plate steel--but--in Bending the plow Curve their Machine--has to bend It in 1/4 to 1/2 inch segments --in order to get the proper Roll--which takes a lot of TIME!--as they Charge by the Hour!--Final Results?--the Blade surface looks Funny?--all those little press lines--running from side to side across the Face of the new Skin--I Dono? any CO around Here?--that can Roll it?--One continuos Roll--like Factory--It Works OK!--but--it Harder to Clean UP w/a Grinder in Preperation to Prime & Paint--All those little Indentations!--running the Full Width of the New Skin--my Opinion--a Lot of WORK!--OleTower--
     
  8. tsmith

    tsmith Senior Member
    Messages: 255

    I can tell you the redneck way of bending your sheet metal without a roller or a brake. You need your sheet metal, a truck, some 4x4s and 2x4s a little longer than your piece of metal and preferably a friend to drive the truck. Lay the sheet metal down on the 2x4s with them spaced at the edges and drive back and forth on the sheet metal, then move the boards (keep them straight and running length ways) keep moving your boards and adding to the height to get your metal to bend in a moon shape, periodically check against the plow for correct curvature. It takes a little time and patience, but it works, I just did it for half of my blade last week. You will have to clamp it on the plow and massage it a little with a hammer because it will want to bow up at the ends. It worked good for me.
     
  9. justme-

    justme- 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,138

    Thanks for all the suggestions- thats really alot of help. I really planned on rebuilding and wending in a patch 2 seasons ago, but....you know how it is when the off season comes....:blush2:

    Basher, I thought of a poly over it, but with 7 holes, all good size now (1 bottom center spanning 2 rib cavities) the ribbing is sound, but the steel skin may only support the poly for 1 season before it deforms through a hole, plus the hole open from the back will create a great place for snow and salt to accelerate the rust. Rust is cancer- if you don't cut it out completely it will come back quickly.

    Shane, you have a PM!
     
  10. Nascar24

    Nascar24 Senior Member
    Messages: 645

    Hi

    Have you tried to locate another blade? I have purchased a few LCM and CM models
    ( model just before MM) and converted them to a MM blade. It's a simple conversion on the quadrant frame add new angle Iron back at the mounting ears, trim out the old one and box in the channels.

    the reason I suggest this is I have found plenty of these baldes out there and most require little or no serious work needed and they typically can be bought for $100-$250, which I'm sure you'll be spending on a new moldboard that is ready to install. Something about these older blades without powder coating they seem to in better shape as time goes by?

    I have also re-skinned by using more than one piece of stock, most fab shops have rollers that are 4' long or smaller or brakes that are 6' or shorter, you can always have two pices formed and weld them together,. Another suggestion is use a backer strip when welding the two pieces together, makes for a better job.
     
  11. fernalddude

    fernalddude PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,106

  12. buzzz427

    buzzz427 Junior Member
    from Maine
    Messages: 2

    moldboard replacement

    I have been thinking of replaceing the moldboard on my 8 foot hd. thought I would get some pointers on here but dont see much I looked at the fisher parts catalog and there is a part # for a moldboard but havent talked to the dealer yet and for less than five hundred bucks I must be missing somthing.
     
  13. sweetk30

    sweetk30 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,588

    its easy .

    open phone book . find local steel fab shops.

    call ask if thay can roll a sheet of steel. some shops can and cant. if thay can ask how big .

    some shops have 4 ft wide roller and some have 8 ft wide roller.

    the 8ft wide will work perfect for 1 sheet . but if not 2 4 ft and weld the center up.

    then cut off the old skin. grind or sand blast the frame work of the blade. have the steel shop match the arch needed. then weld the new on and repaint.
     
  14. fernalddude

    fernalddude PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,106

    Dont foget to do the inside of the plow frame before welding the skin on. I used red lead on the inside.
     
  15. justme-

    justme- 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,138

    FWIW I STILL have not reskinned mine...but I'm in pretty despret need this year. Talked to a welder friend who has a guy who can do it but it will be cheaper to buy a used blade... going to hit the local Tech HS since I know they have the capability to press brake 8 feet.

    I talked to my local dealer a few years ago about a new moldboard- as long as the board you have it the new style you should be ok, I have a MM1 so I need a whole new moldboard and a frame to the tune of $1800...