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Repowering Fisher conventional plow - Advice needed

Discussion in 'Truck & Equipment Repair' started by hugger94, Jan 19, 2010.

  1. hugger94

    hugger94 Junior Member
    Messages: 18

    I have a 7 1/2 conventional belt driven hydraulics under hood. I purchased a 89 F250 4x4 7.3L which I am wanting to convert over to underhood electric over hydraulic pump to avoid reinstalling all of the cable driven valves, remove the a/c compressor, etc.

    I have identified the monarch M3593 pump as one that will work but would like to know what other mfg pumps are being used under the hood, and what type of controller to have in the cab?

    I am tired of buying stuff and then finding out that it won't work or I have to remove some equipment like the a/c compressor to run the hydraulic pump. Thought I would change and ask for advice before I buy.... to make the better half happy.

    I would appreciate any and all replies.

    hugger94
     
  2. Crash935

    Crash935 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,377

    Cant beat the monarch pump!

    Fenner and Barnes also make similar type pumps!

    Any type/style of those pumps would be the cheapest and easiest way to go.
     
  3. hugger94

    hugger94 Junior Member
    Messages: 18

    Crash935,

    Are you using the m3593 pump? If so do you just connect the c1,c2, & c3 ports to the appropriate hydraulic ram to control the plow blade?

    I am looking at the Western electric joystick controller P/N 56369 with a six wire plug for the in cab controller. I am hearing that this controller will work for both Western and Fisher plows.

    Will I need to have isolate this power to a separate battery or will the two batteries I currently have for the diesel be enough?

    Thanks for the reply and hope I am asking the right questions.

    hugger94
     
  4. TJS

    TJS PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,342

    I used a Fenner pump set up to go from conventinal speed cast to elec. hyd. The fennner and I am sure the monarch stand alone pumps come with their wire harness and 2 toggles. I also mounted my Fenner like a Inst-act (MM2) is mounted on the plow frame so I do not have to mess with quick disconnect fittings when hooking and un-hooking the plow.Plus there is not very much space under the hood of the truck to mount a stand-alone pump.
    I had to modify the resivour to be able to mount the pump vertically as well.

    As for using a Fisher/Western joys stick, it can be done. You just need to draw up a wiring schematic from the joystick to the stand alone pump wiring.
    T.J.
     
  5. Crash935

    Crash935 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,377

    Hugger,

    I ran the 683's and still have one laying around. The 2 batteries will be plenty, had trucks running off one battery and had trucks running off 2 battteries without problems.

    Using the western controller will be a problem without reworking the pc board. Western controllers are set up to open 2 valves when angleing left but if you drop one wire you wont get it to angle right. Definatley need to dig out the schematics.

    C1 is raise if i remember right, C2 and C3 were angle.

    Little tech info from Monarch,

    http://www.bucherhydraulics.com/bausteine.net/file/showfile.aspx?downdaid=9360&sp=E&domid=1017&fd=3

    How much room do you have under the hood or are you going to have to go out on the lift frame?
     
  6. hugger94

    hugger94 Junior Member
    Messages: 18

    TJS, Thanks for providing me some visual information on your setup…. I was sure that there had to be someone out there that had converted one of these old snow plows and was using electric over hydraulic to re-power them. I really enjoyed your link you provided on the conversion process you went through. Also the information on the joystick that you and Crash935 provided did help me go into this project with my eyes open.

    I am hoping that my project will be somewhat simple in that I am staying basically Fisher original with the exception being converting from the cable/ belt driven pump which would force me to remove the a/c compressor to mount the Fisher pump and eliminate the knee knocking cable joystick mounted under the dash next to the driver kick panel. I really wanted to get away from it sticking out there to knock into every time I got in or out of the truck.

    Again, thanks again for you response.

    hugger94
     
  7. hugger94

    hugger94 Junior Member
    Messages: 18

    Crash935,

    I located a “new” M3593 from one of the threads on this forum.

    https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?Item=9-7883&UID=2009121418321514

    and will be heading to Lincoln, NE in the AM to pick it up. Thanks for the heads up on the western controllers….I found a Monarch controller on ebay that will work and by relocating both the vacuum canister and the radiator/windshield fuild containers I will have enough room on the driver’s wheel well. I was going to have to relocate the vacuum canister either way for the manual cable controlled valve.

    I really appreciate the heads up on the western joystick. As I responded to TJS I have found a monarch controller that will work and with the information you provided I have located the wiring and troubleshooting diagrams needed to wire it up to the M3593.

    I will post a follow up maybe even some pictures of my conversion to pass along my experiences.

    Thanks again for your responses, they were a big help in coming up with the right combinations to make this conversion work. I don’t want to jinx it but it seems so straight forward.

    hugger94
     
  8. Crash935

    Crash935 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,377

    Get us before and after pics of it greased up and wedged in there.
     
  9. hugger94

    hugger94 Junior Member
    Messages: 18

    Will try to do.... However, I do have some trouble with memory and will probably miss a couple of pictures that should have taken.

    I will do my best to get pictures before I start, that seems to be my biggest downfall.

    Thanks again for the information.

    hugger94
     
  10. hugger94

    hugger94 Junior Member
    Messages: 18

    Okay, here are some before pictures of the engine bay on my 89 F250 Diesel before I started moving things around… Radiator / windshield reservoirs from the driver inter fender to passenger (replaced the two separate units with a single unit from a newer vehicle) my windshield washer reservoir was missing when I purchased it so I get a windshield washer as a bonus. The vacumn canister to the right of the overflow reservoir is relocated to the firewall area between the brake booster and breather.



    On the passenger wheel well I had to relocate what I believe was the idle control valve closer to the firewall making room for the radiator /windshield reservoirs. I reused the bracket that was to support both of the reservoirs as the upright support for the new combined reservoir on the passenger fender.



    The next photo shows the relocated idle valve and the radiator/windshield washer reservoir on the passenger fender wheel well.



    The reworked support bracket for radiator/washer reservoir is below.

    Dscn0431x.jpg

    Dscn0433x.jpg

    Dscn0434x.jpg

    Dscn0437x.jpg
     
  11. hugger94

    hugger94 Junior Member
    Messages: 18

    Repowering Fisher snow plow part 2:

    I created the template of the bolt holes on the monarch m3593 pump on the left and then built the mounting bracket for the pump on the right using three points to suspend the pump securely.

    Dscn0438x.jpg

    This photo shows the pump mounted on the bracket ready to be installed.

    Dscn0439x.jpg

    Side view of the pump mounted on the mounting bracket.

    Dscn0440x.jpg

    Since the inter fender is plastic I had to create a metal support plate to support the 41 lb monarch hydraulic pump. This next photo shows that mounting plate created for some old diamond plate with a strap added on the back side fastened to the brake master cylinder bolt.

    Dscn0443x.jpg

    With the mounting plate firmly in place, I drilled the necessary holes through the plastic inter fender to fasten the two bolts to the inter fender. Since there was a 1.5 inch gap between the plate and inter fender, I did cheat a little and inserted a small piece of 2x4 between the plate and the plastic inter fender to have something to tighten the nuts up again.


    This last photo show the new pump mounted in its new home between the battery and cruise control module on the driver’s inter fender area. It is a tight fit but it will work, now to finish hooking up the rest of the plow.

    Dscn0445x.jpg

    Dscn0438x.jpg

    Dscn0439x.jpg

    Dscn0440x.jpg

    Dscn0443x.jpg

    Dscn0445x.jpg