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Repowering Conventional Fisher plow - part II

Discussion in 'Truck & Equipment Repair' started by hugger94, Feb 10, 2010.

  1. hugger94

    hugger94 Junior Member
    Messages: 18

    I have finally gotten the Fisher push plates mounted on my 89 F250 4x4 7.3L diesel. The push plates were suppose to fit 1987-91 F250's but the brackets hit on the radiator support and wouldn't align correctly. They had to have a chunk cut out on the curve that lays on the top of the frame, with another piece of steel welded inside the angle cutout to re-strengthen the brackets. It then went up on the frame like it should have in the first place.

    I am now working up the courage to wire up the Monarch M3593 pump. I have a wiring diagram provided by the seller, but I need to know if I need to wire in a circuit breaker to avoid a direct connection from the battery to the motor solenoid. The diagram doesn't show one but I am undecided.

    I am attaching a copy of the wiring diagram and the plow lights wiring diagram which I just finished working though and working with a DPDT toggle switch to control the plow lights.

    As always any advice will be greatly appreciated.

    hugger94
     

    Attached Files:

  2. hitachiman 200

    hitachiman 200 Senior Member
    Messages: 262

    No fuse necessary here. You want all connections to go directly to the Battery, including the ground. DO NOT! ground to frame.
     
  3. TJS

    TJS PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,345

    Put a relay in your light system. Let the relay take the load and not the switch. Do a search on "relay" or "seprate lighting system" you will find a thread somewhere here on that.
    T.J.
     
  4. no lead

    no lead PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,308

    we ALWAYS install a 200 amp breaker between the battery and monarch. not sure that is the right diagram for your pump. does yours look like the picture?
     
  5. hitachiman 200

    hitachiman 200 Senior Member
    Messages: 262

    Why? the solenoid itself is the cut off. Every connection equals more resistance in the circuit, more resistance equals higher current draw in the circuit therefore creating more potential for problems with no gain. Billions of vehicles on the road can't be wrong.

    :bluebounc:bluebounc:bluebounc:bluebounc
     
  6. no lead

    no lead PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,308

    when the solenoid sticks on and the wire catches fire back to the battery your truck and electrical system will suffer.
     
  7. hitachiman 200

    hitachiman 200 Senior Member
    Messages: 262

    30 yrs of plowing and never heard of a soliniod sticking on a plow, or a car for that matter. What are the odds?
     
  8. no lead

    no lead PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,308

    well hugger, listen to whoever you want. i would use a breaker.
     
  9. hugger94

    hugger94 Junior Member
    Messages: 18

    Didn't intend to create a fire storm regarding whether or not to put a circuit breaker between the battery and selenoid...

    No Lead, yes my pump looks like the diagram in the pdf. That wiring diagram is the same as the monarch m-3593 in the Monarch Wiring Guide for DC power units.

    http://www.bucherhydraulics.com/348...er-packs,-Series-MONARCH/Series-DC/index.aspx

    Click on wiring diagram on the right side, on page 8 of 54.

    hitachiman, I hear what you are saying, but I have personally had a starter solenoid stick several times on a 1989 Ford Bronco, it was actually the ignition switch sticking in the steering column causing the problem but it caused the solenoid to stick none the less.

    TJS, I will look into the relay issue. I currently have the plow lights hooked up as they were on my 1984 F250 with the conventional plow lights were.. either the regular vehicle headlights or plow headlights, with the plow directional/running lights live all the time, using a dpdt toggle switch and a fisher 8603 ? headlight wiring harness used to intercept the vehicle's headlight high/low beam. Only one or the other headlights are active at a time.

    hugger94
     
  10. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    It's not uncommon actually, and as the solenoids become more and more cheaply made (since people buy them based on price :rolleyes:) it's becoming even more of a problem. In fact if you dig around here a little you'll find posts from panicked members when their pump motor won't stop.

    Have seen a couple trucks burned to the ground because if it. Seems some operators aren't swift enough in the noggin to hop out and pull the power plug. Instead they just let it fry. :help:
     
  11. hitachiman 200

    hitachiman 200 Senior Member
    Messages: 262

    I hear ya, but Man, you would save like $10 and risk your truck? Speaking of which I did have a power plug on a western fry just last week. Burned out rite at the plug where the cable joins the pin on the pump side. ground wire to boot. Could have been ugly, good thing I caught it in the shop.
     
  12. hugger94

    hugger94 Junior Member
    Messages: 18

    Now these last two posts have put the fear in me on my wiring abilities, I believe I will put a breaker in just to be on the safe side as well as a bullet connection to quick disconnect the power if needed. I would hate to have to hunt for a wrench while my truck was smoking.

    Thanks for the input and will let everyone know how it goes when completed.

    hugger94
     
  13. hitachiman 200

    hitachiman 200 Senior Member
    Messages: 262

    Oversize your wire and fittings to reduce resistance, use a quality soliniod (and carry a spare) and snap tie everything to eliminate fraying your cables and all will be good(oh yeah, spray everything with FF to keep it clean):)

    :bluebounc:bluebounc:bluebounc
     
  14. no lead

    no lead PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,308

    you can get a resetable breaker for the same price. if you have problems, push the reset button. take your time with the wiring and do it right. all will be fine.

    do you have a box for the switches?
     
  15. hugger94

    hugger94 Junior Member
    Messages: 18

    I just checked in on this thread this morning. I was planning on heading to the parts store after this to see about a breaker.

    no lead what switches are you referring to? All of the connections for the headlights were spade connectors which I heat shrinked after testing and then encased with plastic wire loom and electrical tape. Then should be pretty water-tight.

    Are you referring to the circuit breaker, yes I have a plastic water-tight box that I think I can fasten to the same mounting plate as the hydraulic pump. The NAPA # 755-1573 6-pole connector is sealed in extra plastic and zip-tied to protect it from the weather. The toggle switch controlling the headlights is in dash.

    What switches are you talking about.

    I do really appreciate everyones input and hopefully for my personal health this old fisher plow will see another snow storm for many for years, based upon the mony I have dropped resently.

    On a side note, I do have several pieces of old fisher conventional cable/belt driven hydraulic pump setup(s) as well as the complete Fisher hydraulic setup kit (HPS4595B 1988-91 7.3 L Diesel W/O AC) to mount the pump onto a 7.3L diesel w/o AC, means you have to pull the AC compressor to mount the pump, if anyone is looking for one.

    hugger94
     
  16. basher

    basher PlowSite Fanatic
    from 19707
    Messages: 8,993

    Not that long, every year we have units come in with 12 volt soleniods stuck in the "closed" postion. We use a 250amp fuse instead of a circuit breaker.

    As for cars and trucks they are full of "fuseable links" for electrical protection.