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removng a fisher plow?

Discussion in 'Fisher Engineering Discussion' started by bgingras, May 18, 2005.

  1. bgingras

    bgingras Senior Member
    Messages: 282

    Ok, stupid question but...

    I just bought a 2000 k3500 dump with a fisher minute mount...it's currently attached for transprt home...how do I remove it when I get back home? I have always used the old fashioned a fisher, but never a minute mount. It's not a MM2.
     
  2. ChipsEarthWorks

    ChipsEarthWorks Senior Member
    from CT
    Messages: 105

    YOUR in luck I can help
    #1 if the directions on the back of the plow are worn off then read on if the are not then read them they should be on the back side driver side of the plow.

    if they are not there then here is how I do it

    #1 pull in to where ever you are going to store it then drop the plow
    #2 pull the little L shaped rod it should be on the drivers side that will release the jack in the center
    #3 I like to like to lift up a little on the truck to help set the jack
    #4 pull pins on each side and turn them so they stay out
    #5 disconnect connection's ( electric or hydros not sure what yours is )
    #6 back truck away from plow

    BE sure the jack is set before you pull away from plow or it will fall and it is a pain in the a** to get it up to height of truck again. Also it is a good idea to put a board or brick,something solid under the jack pad that way there it does not sink into the ground ( this is for asphalt, dirt ) hope this helps if you do not understand me that fine there should be directions on fisher web site
     
  3. bgingras

    bgingras Senior Member
    Messages: 282

    I think I got it now...the directions in the manual i douwnloaded were a little sketchy. I'm going to try to pop this thing off tonight so I don't have to worry about it. Truck is real sweet, plow looks almost new, truck does to. I'll post pics once it's home.
     
  4. killed300ex

    killed300ex Senior Member
    Messages: 293

    dont forget befor you unhook all your connections to lower your lift ram all the way down that way none of it is showing to rust.
    Evan
     
  5. ratlover

    ratlover PlowSite.com Addict
    from IL
    Messages: 1,325

    Yes, putting it in float and pushing down with your hand to make sure its all the way down is important. Keeps the cylinder protected and sometimes if you dont reinstalling it can be a major PITA

    Now would be a good time to do your yearly flush of the system too :nod:
     
  6. Yaz

    Yaz PlowSite.com Addict
    from NH
    Messages: 1,061

    Leave plow on a somewhat level spot...

    1)Keep the truck running.
    2)Lower the blade and keep float activated. if you shut off the truck the float will lock....not good...
    3)Next I found if you stand to the side you push down the lifting ram buy pushing the chain with you foot, it intern will shorten the length of chain and lower the ram easily to the bottom.
    4)Pull the jack release pin.
    5)Unplug your connectors and store in the boot on the plow
    cover connectors on truck.
    6)Pull out release pins and lock into the open position, I used a real big screwdriver to lever out the pins for years. I found it was the best for me.


    To put on...

    1)Pull into frame and push blade forward a tad.
    2)Release pins off the locked opened position.
    3)Raise up the head and the pins will lock in. you can't raise the head if you didn't loosen up the chain as mention in the removal process, that's why it's important to do that.
    4)Install two electrical connectors
    5)Raise up jack by pulling the release lever and lift the jack up by hand. It locks in when you let go of the release lever.

    Have fun... :)
     
  7. meathead1134

    meathead1134 Senior Member
    from MA
    Messages: 170

    I wish it was that easy to connect my MM1. I have a B*@!& of a time hooking it up. Every time I try to connect it, its either too high or to low. The pins never line up. I just end up getting fustrated and have my farther in laws tractor and lift it up a little just to get the pins to lock in. This thing is a real pain in the @ss. I have tried to put boards underneath the cutting edge and put the thing into float and put the jack down. I pull the pins with a big screwdriver and it releases, the front end of the truck lifts up a little now the dam thing is too low :realmad: I am back to square 1 again. I'm probally just going to drive the truck homw with the plow on it park it for the winter and take the plow off in the spring. Can anybody help me out on this one. I have a 1998 GMC 2500 with a fisher MM1.
     
  8. SIPLOWGUY

    SIPLOWGUY Senior Member
    Messages: 678

    Keep trying. Practice makes perfect. I've had a minute mount 9 years now and it was tough at the beginning but then one day it all gets good!
     
  9. meathead1134

    meathead1134 Senior Member
    from MA
    Messages: 170

    maybe I should get some timbrens or new springs or something I don't know
     
  10. justme-

    justme- 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,138

    you're doing something wrong if it's not lined up.

    the tough part is lining the frame horns up in the plow frame sockets- if you take it off right and it's on solid ground it will line up to go in.
    Only time I have eight issues are when the ground defrosts and becomes mud (plow sinks in) or the snow I was parking on (or left the plow on) melts to different heights.

    Make sure a arm (lift arm) is ALL the way down and carry chain is loose. Drop the jack foot, then push the whole plow lift frame BACK toward the truck- this raises it enough to get the jack foot to lock. (If you don't do this step, that's you're problem.) Unhook electrical connections, push whole lift frame back while pulling pins to let them come out easier. Back truck away.

    to connect it's the reverse except the plow frame has to be lifted again (push back against the truck again) to allow the pins to go in- then lift the jack foot.
    The MM2 is not any different in this respect- the only difference is you have 1 lever to throw that works both pins instead of throwing each pin seperatly. You still push the frame back to the truck on both operations.

    I had more trouble with my MM1 my first season than my old speedcast, now it's no different- about 1 minute to mount or dismount.
     
  11. Stik208

    Stik208 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,316

    Floor jack underneath it.

    Jason
     
  12. justme-

    justme- 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,138

    Unnecessary when you do it right.
     
  13. danno

    danno Senior Member
    Messages: 401

    I`ve also had trouble removing the plow. I almost need 2 people to help me push the headgear back and try removing the pins at the same time. It`s not the greatest position to be in doing both yourself.

    What I ended up doing, I cut a 2x4 just the right size to fit between the top of the plow back lip, to the point on the triangle plate on the lift arm. I wedge the wood so it keeps the headgear back enough to pull the pins. Why does this have to be this way ? :cry:
     
  14. justme-

    justme- 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,138

    When all is done right I push the headgear back (on the drivers side for example) with my left hand on the ear under the headlight- hand at about shoulder height with my arm bent so basically my shoulder does the work then l bend down and wiggle the pin out. Reverse the procedure for the other side. I'm only 5'8" so it's not like I'm tall or anything.
    I like the wedge the wood idea tho.
     
  15. danno

    danno Senior Member
    Messages: 401

    Is it a problem with anyone else how difficult it is to push the head gear back, and pull the pins ? :confused: