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Removing S2 coil and valve

Discussion in 'Western Plows Discussion' started by graycenphil, Jan 12, 2010.

  1. graycenphil

    graycenphil Member
    Messages: 82

    So I think my problem is the S2 valve (try to angle and the plow lifts). Is there anything I need to know before I start taking it apart? Just loosen the coil with a wrench, remove it and then take a socket to the valve? Clean it, blow it out and replace? Anything to watch out for?

    Thanks.
     
  2. fabcraftinc

    fabcraftinc Member
    Messages: 69

    on straight blade uni or ultra mount only the S3 is activated as well as the motor running. If you angle left, the S2 & S3 have to be activated, angle right only S2. verify what movements you do have first.
     
  3. RepoMan207

    RepoMan207 PlowSite Fanatic
    from Maine
    Messages: 5,031

    I would think your issue lies else where as well. However to answer your original questions, yes, that is exactly how you do it. Just make sure to take note where the wires go if removing all three. Instructions can be had if needed though.
     
  4. twinman326

    twinman326 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,683

    Repo, I might have to agree with you.

    Couple of days ago I ran into the same problem plowing a complex.

    I thought it was the s, valves, but I prove myself wrong. Not saying it can not be graysenphil problem. My problem came out the be the controller. The board itself was messing up..Lucky I had another controller on hand and proven my theory correct.

    Like I said that was my problem, Graysenphil problem might be different..I would still check the controller to see if it is acting up.See if you can borrow another controller to see if your problem straighten out.If not check the electrical wiring first... Just my opinion.............
     
  5. graycenphil

    graycenphil Member
    Messages: 82

    I'm thinking the valves because I tried jumping the controller, following the instructions in the mechanics manual. I put a wire between various wires on the connector in the cab and the right coils energized. I kind of figured all that was left was the valve. Agree?

    Thanks again.
     
  6. twinman326

    twinman326 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,683

    Try the controller first.....If you think the s val is not working, take a screw driver to see if the valve magnetize. For example, controller plug in and power. Move (have someone help you) the controller for right angle, using a screw driver touch the S2 when energize, the screw driver should stick the the valve. That would tell you the valve is working. Do it to the rest of the remaining two valves. If the one of both don't magnetize, you could have a problem with the controller. If if does magnetize, then your problem lies somewhere else. The valve might not be spooling.The screen might be dirty. The black/orange wire might not have a good contact (not clean enough). Could be the grill harness.. Have someone move the controller to the left, while you wiggle the connector plug (plow and truck). If it does start to work, then you have a problem with the pins not making a good connection.. Now if that the case, use battery cleaner, spray both ends, let sit for a couple of minutes. Then use a air gum and blow everything clean. Then take a pair of channel lock pliers, and squeeze lightly on the truck side plug (the one with the holes. Female). Use dielectric grease on both ends, and plug them back together.

    Here a test

    coilstesting.jpg

    coilstesting.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jan 12, 2010
  7. graycenphil

    graycenphil Member
    Messages: 82

    When someone moves the controller, the coil energizes (holds a screwdriver) and the motor runs. Just doesn't angle.
     
  8. twinman326

    twinman326 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,683

    Did you remove the valve and check to see if there is any contamination?

    Also have you check the fluid level?
     
  9. graycenphil

    graycenphil Member
    Messages: 82

    Fluid is full. I am planning to remove the valve and clean it.
     
  10. fabcraftinc

    fabcraftinc Member
    Messages: 69

    After you remove the coil (black/ round thing), feel the stem for any dents or bulging. After you remove the valve, make sure the stem inside moves in and out freely. There should be about .090" of travel on a good valve. I do agree that swapping controllers is the quickest way to start. Also, be aware of any ice that could of formed in the valves. Usually at 20 degrees or colder ice will start to be a problem.
     
  11. RepoMan207

    RepoMan207 PlowSite Fanatic
    from Maine
    Messages: 5,031

    Apparently this has been an on going issue for you. I went back an re read your previous threads to get some more back ground information. All these things your experiencing are most likely due to deteriorating control harness / connectors, and or controller. What was your out come when you had issues before, what has and hasn't been done?

    If I were you, or better put: if your in fact tired of running around with your head cut off with all of these problems, I would simply replace your control harness ends if not the whole thing; both truck and plow side. I might even consider a new controller, and give the pumps wiring, coils, and cartridges a good once over and be done with it once in for all. I suppose some may see that as being excessive, but that's just me. I know there has been some time in between issues, but I really think it's just a matter of deteriorating components.

    Your on the right track and you have all the right info to guide you. Follow the steps and you'll nail this in no time. Keep us posted and good luck!
     
  12. mxz

    mxz Junior Member
    Messages: 12

    I had the same problem, save yourself the hassle and leave the valves alone. Take twinmans advice about cleaning your connections. I took a pair of vice grips and lightly clamped my 9 pin connector while they were connected. This was my problem , at least it forced me to clean and service everything on my plow.
     
  13. twinman326

    twinman326 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,683

    Repo, once again I have to agree..
    In post #4 and #6 I mention some of the things that could go wrong..In post #6 I even put a diagram so he could check the spool for movement. It can be something simple as electrical, connection at the solenoid, grill connector and like you stated the controller.

    After graycenphil is done checking, I would recommended giving the system a complete check over and also a good flush. I also recommended using dielectric grease on all connection...

    Just my opinion...
     
  14. graycenphil

    graycenphil Member
    Messages: 82

    But it appears to me everything electical is perfect. I move the controller, and the motor runs and the coils energize, everytime. Doesn't this indicate that the electrical system is fine, leaving only the hydraulics?
     
  15. twinman326

    twinman326 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,683

    Here is a question. Think before you answer.

    Did you go through the electrical (grill connector, terminals on the solenoid, trying another controller, checking the controller harness going through the firewall) for corrosion, chaff wires, bad connection???

    Maybe you over look something !!!
     
  16. graycenphil

    graycenphil Member
    Messages: 82

    Okay, I'll double check them all before I pull out the valve.

    Thanks again.
     
  17. mxz

    mxz Junior Member
    Messages: 12

    grill connector......grill connector.....and grill connector.
     
  18. twinman326

    twinman326 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,683

    MxZ..I think he got the point.....Grill connector has been mention several times already.....
     
  19. twinman326

    twinman326 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,683

    Something that wasn't mention, check your vehicle charging system..

    Do you have "quick couplers" on the ends of your pressure hoses (from the pump to the "ram assy" (angle cylinder, make the plow go left, or right)??

    Also I did a search and came up with one of your threads to be similar to this one
    http://www.plowsite.com/showthread.php?t=94266.

    It seem you been having the same problem, and you haven't taken anyone advice to help resolve the problems. B&B, Repoman, myself and others have been giving opinions, and possible causes to what the real problem might be or is the solution that is causing the problem at hand.

    My advice, do what someone on this site ask you to check..Don't assume everything is "ok". If your ask to check the plow harness out for any corrosion, grill connector for loose or broken pins, chaff wires were the controller harness goes through the fire wall, controller harness itself and plug, swapping controller, black/orange wire that connected to the small terminal on the solenoid, and plow frame (which is also connected to S1,S2,and S3 valves), which is the ground wire, vehicle charging system, because it can not stay with the supply and demand for voltage, remove the "s" valve to check if any contamination inside the channel, or test the valve for a struck spool. The people on here are not throwing these thing at you just for fun..There here to help, and maybe they had the same exact problem your experiencing right now. The more info you can give (what kind of plow, hydraulic, cable, relays, mod), the better result you will receive.

    Out of respect, show a little respect. If someone like B&B, Repo, or who ever ask you check something, take your time and check it. On the other hand, once the problem is resolve, you have much more in site and valuable info then you had when the problem occurred. Then if there another problem that occurred, you might be able to fix it on your own !!!
     
    Last edited: Jan 13, 2010
  20. mxz

    mxz Junior Member
    Messages: 12

    Just a note on what twinman said and very importantly please if you find the problem post what action resolved it so that others can learn from it.