1. Welcome to PlowSite. Notice a fresh look and new features? It’s now easier to share photos and videos, find popular topics fast, and enjoy expanded user profiles. If you have any questions, click HELP at the top or bottom of any page, or send an email to help@plowsite.com. We welcome your feedback.

    Dismiss Notice

Reconfigure Ultra Mount for 02 Silverado

Discussion in 'Western Plows Discussion' started by 02ChevyMI, Feb 13, 2010.

  1. 02ChevyMI

    02ChevyMI Junior Member
    Messages: 4

    I am new to plowing. Purchased a used Ultra Mount that was assembled for some other vehicle.

    I have hooked up the mounts and wiring. My issue is this unit was obviously assembled for something with a much higher frame.

    I have downloaded and printed the instructions for this unit, as best as I can figure anyway, lots of models out there.

    Anyway, I have everything working except for the height of the pivot pin at the base of the frame. We are working on getting the bolts out, but I am not sure those pins can be removed and moved to a higher hole without taking everything off the sides. The other issue I see is the fact that there may not be enough room even after moving to the highest set of holes. According to the manual, I need 9 3/4" to the center of the back bolt. I currently have just over 2"

    Now for the questions. Are those pivot pins short enough to remove and move without completely taking it all apart? The brackets that are currently down low, can I get them up and out of the way or do I just need to torch them off to get the ground clearance I am hoping for?

    Thanks in advance for any help you people might be able to give.
     
  2. cubicinches

    cubicinches PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,412

    The pivot pins won't come out without removing the stand assemblies and the six bolts which hold the configuration plates. It's not that big of a deal. Lean the headgear against the blade and support the pivot bar with a big block of wood. Get a helper to steady the headgear so you don't smash your headlights. Two guys can swap configurations in 20 minutes or so, with air tools, depending on how easily the bolts come apart and if the pivot pins aren't seized up. A little heat helps if that's the case.

    Most later Silverados wind up in configuration two if they haven't been all jacked up. Measure from the ground to the top of the receivers on the truck frame to determine the correct configuration. It's all in the instructions.
     
  3. 02ChevyMI

    02ChevyMI Junior Member
    Messages: 4

    We are working on getting the bolts broken loose, but this thing was sitting in a snow bank when I bought it last month. Not sure now old this thing is or how long it was just sitting there.

    It is unfortunate that we have to take so much apart. With the way everything is so stuck together, it might be summer before this thing is up and running properly.

    The plow is sitting at a friends house. He is the one with the loader that took it out of the back of the truck. Riding too low to get it home to work on it at my house so this is starting to get annoying to drive all the way over there for working on rusted fasteners and a nearly complete dissembly just to move some pins.

    I am currently running at 11" to the top of the receivers. I am planning on turning up the torsion bars to get the 13" the instructions mention. The side plates are still going to be pretty low. Am I going to have to torch them off to get reasonable clearance?
     
  4. twinman326

    twinman326 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,683

    Here is the configuration for the plates

    conplateabc.jpg

    If your looking at the back side of the plow, the driver side pivot plate should be "B" (bevel end up.
    Pass side pivot plate should be "A" (bevel side up).

    Configuration #1 = 13" to 14.5"
    Configuration #2 = 14.5" to 16.0"
    For #1, and #2, you don't need the stacking plate. The only time you need the stacking plate is for configuration #3, and #4. If the stacking is on, then you can remove it if your only using configuration #1 or #2.

    If your going to be turning the torsion bars up a little to reach 13", then use configuration #1.

    DO NOT install the pivot pins in the two upper holes (read #4)

    conplateabc.jpg
     
    Last edited: Feb 13, 2010
  5. 02ChevyMI

    02ChevyMI Junior Member
    Messages: 4

    I must have looked at that picture over a hundred times, and it just now makes sense. They must have turned them over to get the pivot down lower. Now there is no question that I will need to break all of them loose and flip those brackets over. It's amazing to me that it didn't make sense until now.

    I am going to try to get this back home and get all of those nice rusted fasteners broken loose.

    Thanks for all the help. I will let you know how it works out. Might be a few days.
     
  6. cubicinches

    cubicinches PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,412

    When switching from configuration 3 or 4 to 1 or 2, you must flip the plates and switch them from one side to the other. When you get it apart it becomes more obvious. It's not that hard really. Get a 1/2" impact gun with a 15/16" swivel socket and buzz that thing apart. Heat the nuts up if they're rusted.
     
  7. twinman326

    twinman326 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,683

    Just make sure the "bevel ends" are up on "A" and "B" (look at configuration #1, and #2)

    If the setup is for #3, and #4, that means they also have the "stacking stop" attach as well.....You DON'T need the stacking stop on configuration #1, or #2..


    Good luck..........
     
    Last edited: Feb 13, 2010