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Rearend sag

Discussion in 'Chevy Trucks' started by JayMac, Oct 22, 2008.

  1. JayMac

    JayMac Member
    Messages: 95

    Ok, I have a K1500, regular cab, stepside that I've turned the bars up on in order to get the correct ride height for the plow as recommended by Western. Currently the truck sits level, add the plow and ballast (@ 500#) then the rear drops slightly more than the front when the plow is down, bring the plow up truck sits level. So with that said I think that I have the correct balance when plowing. Yes or No?

    The problem I think is when I add a trailer or load. The rear sags more than I like it to causing the steering to get a bit washy. I think from reading some threads that there are three solutions. 1) add an overload like Timbrens. 2) lift the rear with blocks. 3) add a leaf spring. So now the question is what is the correct fix and why?

    Thanks in advance
    Last edited: Oct 22, 2008
  2. red07gsxr

    red07gsxr Senior Member
    from meriden
    Messages: 256

    i dont know for sure but it seems to be that if you turn the frt bars back a turn then the back wont be sitting lower with the plow down. you can add a leaf if you would like in the back. not very hard.
  3. SnoFarmer

    SnoFarmer PlowSite Fanatic
    from N,E. MN
    Messages: 7,921

    Install timbrens front and rear.
    would be the easiest and cheapest fix.
  4. Indy

    Indy Senior Member
    Messages: 704

    4) do squats and lunges, that will fix a saggie rear:jester:
  5. Truck_Stuff

    Truck_Stuff Inactive
    from NJ
    Messages: 74

    You should give SuperSprings a shot. I think it may take care of your sag. I wonder if anyone on here has ever tried them?????
  6. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    Your height and ballast sound perfect. Just add a set of Timbrens or helper springs in the rear to cope with the ballast/trailer.

    Wouldn't recommend add-a-leafs or lift blocks in the rear or else your going to get the tail high stance when the truck is unloaded....which is more times than not.
  7. sweetk30

    sweetk30 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,588

    i would swap out the springs in the rear my self first. he has old worn out super light springs as its a stepside and not designed for loads all the time.

    look for some springs from a 3/4 ton truck or 1ton. the 88-up trucks use 64" long springs on 1/2-1ton trucks. the only real diffrences is thickness of the leafs and # of leafs in the pack. the pro to all of this is the length of the springs keeps the ride good even on the heavy springs.

    i took my 1ton with 5 leaf stock springs and hooked up a 10k trailer. the rear droped more than i liked. so i had a set of leafs i removed from a 3/4 ton truck. i checked and found 1 leaf from each would fit in my 5 leaf packs with out and problems.

    so i got 4 new ubolts and 2 center pins. then installed the extra leaf per side. then rechecked the sag in the back with the trailer hooked up. sits much better and the truck only came up 1" in the rear with out trailer hooked up.
  8. Q101ATFD

    Q101ATFD Senior Member
    Messages: 277

    First, your ballast is about right - but correct weight distribution should not be judged by how much one end of the truck sits or squats. That's all related to spring rate and kinematics. Second, lift blocks are not an answer, they just make the truck look higher. The weight will still be distributed the same with a trailer or a load, and your loose steering will be the same. I would add timbrens - I have them on both ends of both plow trucks and from an engineering standpoint, they are the best solution.
  9. streetsurfin'

    streetsurfin' Senior Member
    Messages: 770

    I like air shocks on the rear in a situation like this.