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rear blade trouble

Discussion in 'Truck & Equipment Repair' started by Baseball1, Jan 28, 2010.

  1. Baseball1

    Baseball1 Junior Member
    Messages: 18

    This morning my rear blade stopped going up. It was working just fine, except it seemed to be drawing more juice than b4, then I put it down for the final pass and that was it. I had to drag it home and take it off to finish. Luckily I was close to home. It was low on fluid so I topped it off but that made no difference. When I go to lift it up you can here the pump trying to work but it acts like it isn't getting enough power. Any suggestions on what to start with? It's only about 5 degrees right now so I'm going to have my coffee and work on it in a little while. Just looking for some help so I can limit how many fingers freeze off.
    Thanks
     
  2. augerandblade

    augerandblade PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,054

    Is this on a truck or tractor
     
  3. Baseball1

    Baseball1 Junior Member
    Messages: 18

    On a 2000 f250 super duty.
     
  4. augerandblade

    augerandblade PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,054

    Put a cable to the pump motor from the battery and see if it spins better. Could be elec trical so check all your connections, solenoid,.. There is a whole lot of threads on..........plow not lifting......on this site........Probably the same solutions apply, except you ll be kicking the back of the truck instead of the front if the fix is getting tiresome. Hope ya get a quick fix and your fingers arent getting numb.
     
  5. Baseball1

    Baseball1 Junior Member
    Messages: 18

    Thanks, I'll let you know shortly. Is there a way to check the solenoid with a volt meter?
     
  6. augerandblade

    augerandblade PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,054

    Usually the solenoid will "Click" but inside the terminals are not making a good connection, which prevents all the electrical power from getting through. To check it youhave to jump the solenoid with a cable at the two large terminals, power coming in and power going to the pump motor. Be careful with sp arks flying cuz,(I dont know how close the battery is to it) it may cause a battery explosion if conditions are just right. I would recommend going to the pump motor first and putting a booster cable from the positive side of the battery right to the power in side of the motor., if it spins good then you can work y o ur way backwards
     
  7. Baseball1

    Baseball1 Junior Member
    Messages: 18

    Thanks, I'll be out there shortly.
     
  8. augerandblade

    augerandblade PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,054

    I be watching for your post, Im doing invoices, however almost dun, then a coffee break, then I will be away for??????????????????
     
  9. wahlturfcare

    wahlturfcare Senior Member
    Messages: 320

    you could always test it with a battery charger or spare battery. you could have moisture freezing it up too. If you have a space heater, you might try blowing heat onto it to see if it is freezing up.
     
  10. carl b

    carl b PlowSite.com Addict
    from Ohio
    Messages: 1,330

    If it was low on fluid. than the motor had to pick up the slack . I'm thinking you may have burnt up the motor .
     
  11. Baseball1

    Baseball1 Junior Member
    Messages: 18

    Thanks for all the help, especially augerandblade for getting back with me right away. I replaced the solenoid and as I put things back together I found a broken wire at the pump valve piece. For got what they're called. After replacing that it worked for a minute then quit, that's when I remembered I forgot the cardinal rule, check the simple thngs first. My ground wire going to the truck had come loose. Tightened that and works great again now. Maybe that caused the solenoid to go bad, don't know. No it didn't take all night to fix, I was at my sons hockey practice. It was still a long and cold day. Thanks again.
     
  12. no lead

    no lead PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,308

    just an FYI for all viewing. a bad ground will produce a low voltage draw, meaning not full 12 volts. when this happens the solenoid doesn't "click" or engage properly. without enough voltage it will stick open and not work, or worse stick on and run till the motor goes bad. check connections often and keep them clean!