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Ratlover's T bar adjustment procedure

Discussion in 'Chevy Trucks' started by ratlover, Jan 10, 2005.

  1. ratlover

    ratlover PlowSite.com Addict
    from IL
    Messages: 1,325

    Here is the proper way IMO to adjust your torsion bars. Although its possible to just crank away its not the best method IMO and can lead to stripping out the adjusters and that will either leave you SOL or taking a bolt to the melon worse case scenario. These bolts are under A LOT of pressure! Especially after numerous adjustments it can wear on the threads. Its like working under a car that’s just supported by a hydraulic jack, some guys have done it for years with no problems and some unlucky guys have had accidents the first go around. I have used a jack to raise the front of the truck up and take some load off the bars and this is the 1/2 assed right way to do things and better than just cranking with the truck sitting but its still not the best way. The proper way it to use this tool http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/otc7822a.html from OTC to take all the pressure off the bolts.

    There are 2 adjuster bolts at the end of your T bars mid way under your truck on either side of the truck. They are 18 mil IIRC. They are on the cross member that the T bars terminate into behind the transfer case. You will see a little warning sticker on it referring to the tbars on the back side of the cross member. Maybe someone ;) will post some pics to make it real easy for the new guys. JMO but I would limit a crank to 1.5” and 2” at the max from stock height. You CV joints should be pretty level. If you have a used truck our trucks suspension may have settled or the previous owner may have already cranked the bars. Take a look at the front geometery, stock is close to parallel with the ground and the truck stock will have a slight rake front to back. The amounts of turns you make makes 0 difference! All that matters is how high the front end is from stock. If you crank a 1/2 turn or 12 turns and get 1” its still the same as far as the truck is concerned. The T bars were designed from the factory to be adjusted. You can and should adjust them for added weight up front like a big bumper or a plow. Guys that run plows may chose to raise in the winter and lower in the summer and that’s alright. If you write down what your measurements are and always crank your truck to that # then you will be good to go. # of turns really dosnt mean squat.

    Step 1 is to measure your trucks ride hight up front. It dosnt matter were it is but it need to be repeatable. I like bottom of the fender or bumper or the like. Bounce the front of the truck a few times to make sure the front end is settled. Also you measurement is weight dependant so measure it with what ever weight you will be running with most of the time. Measure with 1/2 tank of fuel or so, measure with how your truck will be outfitted normally ect. Measure both passenger and driver side. Its likely there will be side to side differences. Its OK to have a level truck, you can crank one side more than the other. Remember this number! its great if you have a new truck that way you can always have a reference to what stock height is.

    Step 2 is to remove the pressure from the T bars with the tool or at a minimum jack the front all the way off the ground.

    Step 3 is to take your 18 mil socket and turn the bolts. I would turn the bolts 3 full revolutions to start. Some people like to mark the bolts and or the socket and the frame as reference points, I just use a breaker bar and count. Either is acceptable. A shot of spray lube isn’t a bad idea or some anti sieze.

    Step 4 is remeasure time. Unload the bars and bounce the truck. If you are doing the 1/2 assed adjustment method then drop your jack as fast as possible and this should settle the suspension. 3 turns is likely to be too little so repeat and crank some more.

    Hopefully I didn’t forget anything. If I did or you see something screwy with my methods feel free to say something.