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questions on meyers plow

Discussion in 'Commercial Snow Removal' started by paul soccodato, Dec 31, 2002.

  1. paul soccodato

    paul soccodato Senior Member
    Messages: 430

    went to look another plow truck yesterday. 85 chevy k-30 drw rackbody dump. very good shape, normal spots of rust on the cab, (not bad at all). 6.2 diesel. the truck needs some work, the rackbody is in bad shape, truck has been sitting its whole life. truck has only 6500 miles on it. all in all, a great truck for $1500.
    anyways, its got a meyer setup on it, 8' blade

    question 1- the plow pump is driven off the engine (like the old fishers). i have never seen a meyer setup like this. were they avaliable like this or did some scientist do this themselves?

    question 2- the ears for attaching the blade are like 3' under the truck. is this normal?

    any insight would be greatly appriciated
  2. BRIMOW525

    BRIMOW525 Senior Member
    Messages: 259

    I'm no meyers expert but as far as I know there wasn't and belt driven pump for meyers. As the mounting for the ears of the plow is normal for the older style mounts. If you look at some old meyers setups on early 80s blazers and pickups, they mount damn near under the oil pan. just my 2 cents hope it helped.
  3. Chuck Smith

    Chuck Smith 2000 Club Member
    from NJ
    Messages: 2,317

    Yes, Meyer did use a belt driven pump, in the 70's and early 80's. It was standard on the Dodge Sno Commander. It sounds like someone retrofitted it on the Chevy. Does is have 2 BIG knobs by the (old style) headlight switch that look like PTO knobs? Push pull type knobs?

    It sounds like the mounting ears are too far back. Try and fully angle the plow, and see how close it comes to the bumper when angled. Meyer makes a few different A frames ranging in length from 34" - 39".

    It sounds like someone retrofitted the whole set up from a Dodge.

    Is the plow an ST series? Does it have 2 trip springs, or 3? If it has 2, then it is a plow from the 70's.

  4. PAPS Landscape

    PAPS Landscape Member
    Messages: 51

    I have an 86 Chevy C-20 and the mount is like about 3' back under the truck as well.
  5. paul soccodato

    paul soccodato Senior Member
    Messages: 430

    thanks for the info,
    im not sure about the plow type or the controls. im going to go back and look at it again today, so ill take a better look.
    thanks again
  6. CMerLand

    CMerLand Senior Member
    Messages: 173


    Cant speak for Chevys but I do have the pre-ez mount setups on my Fords and they mounting pins are only about 12-18 inches back from the front bumper. Are you exaturating or is it really three feet back?? Like chuck said Meyers does have two different A-frame lengths and Chevys do use the longer setups on their plow but its not thaaaatttt much longer. The 8 footer blade I bought is technically for a Chevy but I just had the lift chain moved back on a-frame and it works perfectly. If its a jury rigged retrofit, just go over the plow frame attaching points to make sure they are strong enough to stand up to plowing.

    It turned out my first plow setup was actually missing the truck side frame brackets and the upper head gear and plow carrier were only held in place by the angle straps. Fortunately that year truck Meyers truck frame actually had these long extension arms the extended halfway back the the truck before Y-ing out to mount at the middle of the truck frame. Being knew I didnt realize I was missing parts until that frame complete self destructed after the war er storm of 93.
  7. paul soccodato

    paul soccodato Senior Member
    Messages: 430

    i just looked at it again, and chuck to answer your questions,

    the blade has 4 trip springs on it. i didnt have a tape measure with me, but im pretty sure the blade is either 8 1/2' or 9'.

    the controls are exactly like you described.

    the plow pump itself is mounted above the power steering pump. its a monarch pump, and is really small.

    maybe i exagerated a little on the plow hookup, its probably 18"-24" under the truck, its directly under the sway bar.

    what do you guys think? is this setup going to work, or should i do anything to change it?
    the truck has'nt run in a year and a half or so, so i have to go through it and get it running. im buying it from my friends boss, and my buddy knows the history of the truck, and was the only one who drove it.
    thanks again
  8. Chuck Smith

    Chuck Smith 2000 Club Member
    from NJ
    Messages: 2,317

    Paul, the blade is a C series, or a Husky. Definitely a stout plow, much stronger than the ST series. I would buy the truck personally for that price. I would run it unttil I could find a good deal on an E-47 or E-60 power unit, as pushing and pulling those knobs to control the plow gets old real fast. You can remove the lift cylinder, and install the Electro-Lift pump in its place no problem.

    The mount is in the correct place, right under the sway bar.

    For $1500, if the plow is in good shape, and the dump body is in good shape, and dumps, the motor runs (or can run with a minor investment) then I would jump on it. Look at it this way, even if you put $2k into it in the next year or so, you will have a solid reliable truck.

    I just looked at a truck VERY similiar to this one(86 K/30), except it had a gas motor, and many more miles on it. The body was perfect, the dump body floor had holes in it (from having a V box in it its entire life), it had a Western plow on it in great shape, and a Western V box on it in great shape. Both the V box and truck started right up, motor didn't burn any oil (was a rebuild with less than 3K on the odometer... so they said). Brand new tires with less than 1,000 miles on them. I didn't test drive it. I offered them $2500 for it (would have gone to $3500) and they declined. They sold it 2 days later for $6500!

    If the dump body was solid, and I knew the brakes (including brake lines) were 100%, the front end was 100%, the trans was 100%, I would have paid the $6500 myself.

    I still think it is ridiculous for a truck that is 16 years old to be worth $6500, but that is just a peeve of mine, much like a new pickup costing nearly $40K with the options I'd want for plowing....

    I made my offer based on replacing all the steel brake lines and fuel lines, complete set of brakes all around including calipers and wheel cylinders, welding in a new dump body floor, having the bench seat renovated, etc.

    IF* I paid $1500 for it, I could easily invest another $6K, and have a truck that was almost BRAND NEW.

    This truck is a prime example of what is so great about 73 - 87 Chevy/GMC trucks. Parts are cheap and readily available, and they are strong trucks for plowing and hauling.

    Stepping off the soapbox now.....

  9. paul soccodato

    paul soccodato Senior Member
    Messages: 430

    Chuck ,
    thanks for the help. since all i own are westerns and have no experience with meyer stuff, what model pump would i be better off with? also what else do i need for the swap? ill just go up to the dealer and get everthing i need before i put it to work. going to be awhile before i go through the truck and get it on the road.
  10. Chuck Smith

    Chuck Smith 2000 Club Member
    from NJ
    Messages: 2,317

    Paul, the E-47 is the cheaper, slower (and somewhat more reliable....here come the flames....) power unit of the two most common. The E-60 is faster, and more expensive. The E-57 is the newest, which is basically the E-47 with the same larger motor that the E-60 uses.

    Now.... since you are a Western guy, there is no reason I can see for you to not be able to use a Western pump and controller for the Meyer plow. You may even have a used Western pump laying around, or be able to find a good deal on a used one. Then you would have versatility as far as the pump and controls (less spare parts) go.

    With the C series (or Husky) plows, there are little if any problems with them. The only parts for the blade you might want on hand are replacement trip springs and trip spring mounting eyes.

    As was discussed in another thread, make sure the pivot pins are not siezed, and the plow can trip. Other than that, I see no problems.

    Anyone else see any problems with using a Western pump? Since the truck has the old conventional mount, the Western pump should* fit.

    Worse case scenario, you buy a used headgear from for a Westeern, or have yours modified by a welder.

  11. BRL

    BRL PlowSite.com - Veteran
    Messages: 1,277

    Me personally, I'd stick with the under the hood pump if its OK, or even make any repairs\maintenance needed to it & use it (that may include replacing all of the hoses, valves, pump etc., or rebuilding some of that stuff). Switch the controler from what is there to a Western "slick stick" (not sure what Western really calls that LOL) for under hood pumps & rock & roll. Like Chuck said, check the pivot pins & maybe just replace those from the git go so they don't become a head ache down the road. On the C-8 I bought that had been basically sitting for years, the plow tripped fine, the pins looked fine, but they still snapped during the first plow event. So I'd just replace those right away. Under the hood pumps are basically bullet proof, have yet to make emergency repairs on any under hood pumps I've had\have (knock on wood). But you can read plenty of my posts about fixin' the electric outside pumps. ;) Sounds like a good deal to me. Good luck.
  12. paul soccodato

    paul soccodato Senior Member
    Messages: 430

    thanks for all the help. when the truck is up and running (plowing), ill let you guys know how i made out.
    thanks again
  13. Chuck Smith

    Chuck Smith 2000 Club Member
    from NJ
    Messages: 2,317

    BRL, the cost of the electric coils and valves alone, new, would equal the cost of a used power unit. IF the truck already had the underhood pump, and electric controls, I'd say stay with it.

    You can't buy the replacement parts for the manual valves anymore, as they are outdated, and need to be changed to a new style manual valve. A few years back I sent a friend to Northern to replace his valves on his manual set up on a Sno Commander. Every local dealer laughed at him and told him to buy an E-60 when he asked about getting new manual valves. The guys at Northern helped him. As it turns out, the valves he needed were not listed in their catalog, but they could still get them.

    That is why I told Paul to go with a used power unit (especially if he already has a spare).

    If the coils & valves and wiring costs $400 (just an example price) he could find a used unit for that I am sure.

    On a side note, did you ever plow with the push pull knobs? NOT fun...

  14. plowking35

    plowking35 2000 Club Member
    from SE CT
    Messages: 2,923

    I rarley disagree with chuck, but I would stay with the underhood controls. Fisher still makes all the parts you need to keep it up and running. In fact I would swap a fisher cable controlled joystick in and then no push pull knobs.
    We just bought the entire under hood fisher control system for 50.00 from a local junk yard. That included joystick, cables, under hood pump and valve body, lift cyl, drive sheath, and pump mounting plate. We did change the hoses, but that is it. For that kind of money its well worth it, and no need to deal with the elctro system, and the common glitches that meyer seems to have.
    On a side note, the local town near me used to run all meyer systems on 80's style trucks, and they would run push beams under the truck sll the way to the frame in back of the cab. The plow did mount at the front sway bar, and they also used under hood hydros. I wonder if this truck has the same type of municipal upfit.
  15. paul soccodato

    paul soccodato Senior Member
    Messages: 430

    i actually have a new meyer catalog (buried in a stack of other catalogs). i was looking at thier pumps, what do you think about putting an E-60H on that setup? will it bolt right in place of the existing lift cylinder?

    thanks again
  16. Kent Lawns

    Kent Lawns PlowSite.com Veteran
    Messages: 315

    Keep the hydralics the way they are.

    They're quick and reliable.

    Rewiring a 20 year old truck and/or investing $ into a $1500 unit seems senseless.

    BTW: The Husky was only made in 7.5'. (Until it was "re-introduced in 1990.) The blade in all likelyhood is a C-8 or or C-8.5 and not altogether a bad piece of equipment.
  17. BRL

    BRL PlowSite.com - Veteran
    Messages: 1,277

    I have used a push pull plow set up before & you're right. That's why one of my first suggestions (like Dino mentions) was to replace that with the Western\Fisher control. If you go to hydraulics places you can get the parts needed for those units, vs going to plow suppliers. I priced replacing the valve unit in mine and it was going to be $225.00 for new. Actually didn't need it, just cleaned up the one I had & it was fine. Paul's valve unit may be fine & just need to be changed to the other controller.
    Oh, I just re-read your post. I wasn't talking switching to electric valves. Use the same valves just change the controller to the cable controller, which is easy & comfortable to use, and uses the same pull valve unit. I'm not saying switching to an E-60 is a bad idea, just that I'd prefer to stick with the more reliable underhood set up, if its already there & working. They are easy to maintain & or rebuild\repair if necessary. Just go to a hydro place for parts instead of Plow place.
  18. phillyplowking1

    phillyplowking1 Senior Member
    Messages: 412

    MY opinion is to go with the newer style e-47 or e-60.Why would u want to be messen around with that old underhood system?
  19. paul soccodato

    paul soccodato Senior Member
    Messages: 430

    ive never used the underhood meyer setup before, but if its anything like the old engine driven fisher setup i had in my 84 k-20, its coming out. too slow for my taste.