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Question on plowing with 4" lift & 35's

Discussion in 'Ram Trucks' started by DODGEing, Feb 1, 2009.

  1. DODGEing

    DODGEing Member
    Messages: 53

    I'm looking into buying A 95 2500 CTD but it has A lift and 35's so the question is I already have A western ultra mount set up for the truck ? what needs to be fabricated to make it work? or what needs to be removed from the truck to make it work ? Can I leave the lift on it change tire/rims to get it plowable? Any input would be appreciated.
     
  2. COLOFIREMAN

    COLOFIREMAN Member
    Messages: 78

    If your going to plow with a lifted truck your going to have to fab "crash" bars that will attach to front mount, go under the front axle, and hook to the frame. I had to do the same thing on my 89' Jeep grand wagoneer with a 7" lift and 35's. Worked great until I blew the motor and transfered everthing onto my 73 J4000 with 3" lift and 33's.
     
  3. DODGEing

    DODGEing Member
    Messages: 53

    Can you send any pics ? I'd like to see. Thanks
     
  4. COLOFIREMAN

    COLOFIREMAN Member
    Messages: 78

    Here's a few of the first version I made, refined better as time and money became availible.
    This is the rear mount...
    [​IMG]

    This is the front mount. I mounted it like this because I plow alot of deep driveways and need to break my way up the driveway then push it out. I needed the suspension to be able to move free with bottoming out on the lower bars.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I mounted the lift western lift motor and lifts on the vehicle using a front hitch multi mount system. Hope this helps.
     
  5. COLOFIREMAN

    COLOFIREMAN Member
    Messages: 78

    The great thing about this mount was with weight on it it didn't rattle but it would slide on the leaf spring as the axle needed to move normally. This picture is missing the bushing I had on the top of the leaf spring. I was pulling the motor out of this Grand Wagoneer during this photo. All of the force is directed to the middle of the frame like a older DOT truck. The best thing I liked about this is the cradle didn't hang down any farther than the "pumpkin" does. I used this mount for over 3 years without any problem and alot of snow bashing.ussmileyflag

    EDIT: To make a mount like this work on your truck wouldn't be very hard at all and I have helped a friend here put a plow on a 1/2 Dodge 94-01 body style truck. I don't have any picture on this computer but I know where he lives and will try to snap a few of it. All we did is order a factory rear spring mount from dodge, and weld it upside down to the axle in line with the frame. This give you a nice strong flat surface to weld to. Then using a 2" piece of DOM, we welded it to the spring mount making a spring pivot point. Then using 1/2" 2" flat stock we punched 3/4 holes in both ends of 2, 7" pieces, makng a heavy duty shackle. The main reason for the 7" piece is to use leaf spring shackle bushings to isolate rattle. Then just weld another piece of DOM to the lower cradle where the plow would mount and presto you have a strong, high clearance, plow mount that will move with the suspension and put 1/4 of the weight of the plow directly on the axle and off the front of your frame. The best thing I like about this type of mount is when your trying to break a drift, the plow is not "pulling" down on the front frame horns, it's "pushing" on the stronger middle of the frame.

    This will give you an idea how tall my plow Jeep was with this mount. 3-years and I never broke a plow mount, or frame.
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Feb 1, 2009
  6. DODGEing

    DODGEing Member
    Messages: 53

    Thanks, I can see what you did on your rig but I dont believe it would work on Western's ultra mount.