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Pull plow design

Discussion in 'Commercial Snow Removal' started by scottr, Oct 16, 2015.

  1. scottr

    scottr Senior Member
    Messages: 360

    Starting to build my pull plow, the blade is a Blizzard 810 with the wings removed ( free blade ). I started mocking up a 4-link system so I can keep the angle of attack the same all the time, but, my Buddy stopped by and thought it would be a big mistake not to have a trip feature incorporated into the design.
    I installed a Sno-Man pull plow on his rig a few years ago and he does about 70 driveways and small roads, he has a lot time using it and says his is tripping all the time. Now, keep in mine, around here, we don't have any paved driveways on either of our routes so hitting a rock sticking up is not uncommon until a layer of snow pack develops. I know this is very different from what most of you plow with your pull plows. Looking for advise from those that may use them in rough terrain.
     
  2. BUFF

    BUFF PlowSite Fanatic
    from FR NoCo
    Messages: 7,196

    I don't run a back blade but understand what your worrying about. I've followed your Bronco built thread and you should easily come up with a trip edge design with 2-3 sections that would trip. Since you're building from the ground up I'd look into having it set up for down pressure and float.
     
  3. WIPensFan

    WIPensFan PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,485

    I think you will have problems with a conventional front plow acting as a pull plow. Pull plows are normally 90 degree angle to the ground when pulling so they bump over irregularities in the ground. This is helped by the side wings facing forward but with pull plows with moveable wings they can obviously be all the way straight out and still bump over. I don't see how float would work or a trip edge. I know the Snow-Man plows trip the entire plow so I think that's what needs to happen with yours. Even when pulling on paved surfaces the surfaces are never smooth, transitions to sidewalks and streets and heaved concrete are all over the place. Never had a problem with my Daniels plows, they just skip right over at full down pressure.
     
  4. scottr

    scottr Senior Member
    Messages: 360

    Good advice guys, WIPens, your right about the 90 degree angle, I'm toying with the idea of tilting the cutting edge so that it is at 90 to the ground, I know it won't act the same as a sno man or Daniels, but might help. Also did a little more looking at converting the Blizard to a trip edge like a fisher but it would take to much effort to rebuild the bottom due to the boxed in areas etc. I do however think I can build a frame work and hook up more like a snoman and allow it to trip forward, I won't use a hitch connecting point, instead a solid 2-point pivot.
     
  5. FredG

    FredG 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,180

    I have a Daniels pull behind down pressure is a must as stated above. I don't use it that much anymore. You get tired of backing over piles after a while.

    When I first got it I would drop the blade and go like a front blade in float. Found out real quick you need down pressure.
     
  6. scottr

    scottr Senior Member
    Messages: 360

    Thanks Fred, down pressure it will have, float I will not, at least to start with, I couldn't find a small doubling acting valve with a float built in when I built the hydraulics so I'll start with a double acting cylinder and see how I do.
     
  7. Mr.Markus

    Mr.Markus PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 5,157

    On my little Arctic Plow partner the cutting edge is acrually angled backwards to the mouldboard of the plow, this way it doesn't catch anything but rather rides up over and with the down pressure still does an excellent scrape. just a simple design worth mentioning.
     
  8. scottr

    scottr Senior Member
    Messages: 360

    I can see how that would be a good design Markus, sometimes a guy ends up shooting himself in the foot trying to use (free) something that's not designed for that use. I may have a limp when I'm done :)