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pro plus fluid change/flush

Discussion in 'Western Plows Discussion' started by tony0713, Oct 14, 2014.

  1. tony0713

    tony0713 Junior Member
    from pa
    Messages: 18

    looking to change the fluid in my pro plus. I have to change my resivour due to rust and wanted to change the fluid. should I do a flush while I'm doing it or just a drain and fill?
     
  2. mishnick

    mishnick 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,243

    That depends on how old and dirty the fluid is. If the lift ram is fully retracted its vertually empty so it's just the angle and rams. But if you empty the system it's a bit more work to fill getting the air out. You must fill to level hole, run and top up at least three times. No big deal, they are self priming.
    Be sure to move the magnet from old res to new and put it in the same location in the new reservoir. Make sure to check / clean your sump screens while it's open and consider a new reservoir O-ring. Not sure if reservoir comes with new one.
     
  3. tony0713

    tony0713 Junior Member
    from pa
    Messages: 18

    the fluid is not that old so I might just drain and fill this time. the resivour came with a new o ring and I bought a new pickup screen.
     
  4. dieselss

    dieselss PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 10,963

    I would still flush the angle rams. Your like 3 steps away, and 2 quarts of fluid. Just do it
     
  5. mishnick

    mishnick 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,243

    I like to purge my plow every fall including the rams. I just put a jack under the a-frame to lift the blade off the ground a bit, then remove the ram hoses from the pump unit and direct them into a bucket. Next manually push the blade right and left a few times while the fluid empties into the bucket. Finally re-secure the hoses and go through the purge fill process. When I do the older style (without the plastic shroud) I like to take the reservoir right off, as you will do anyway to change it, and fill the reservoir before I put it on. It's much faster and less mess to do this and then just top it up as you work out the air. Remember though, if you do purge the rams you need to run it up, down, left and right several times and then check the level again and top it up. As the air comes out of the lines and rams the fluid level will drop. Also make sure you put the blade all the way down when you check the level because the lift ram affects the reservoir level. Angle ram position doesn't matter on a straight blade, V blades should be fully retracted when checking. This prevents the fluid from overflowing out of the vent / filler plug from being overfull.
    It takes less than 1 quart more fluid to do the rams. And use proper plow fluid, not Dexron trans fluid. The blue plow fluid stays thin when it gets cold, trans fluid is intended for a trans that warms up. Your plow hydraulics NEVER gets warm so trans oil will get thick when it's cold. Plow fluid is highly modified to maintain stable viscosity at a very wide range of temperatures. Expensive but worth it.
     
    Last edited: Oct 14, 2014
  6. tony0713

    tony0713 Junior Member
    from pa
    Messages: 18

    yea I bought 3 qts of western fluid. I'll do the whole system for piece of mind when it's 3am in the middle of a storm.
     
  7. snowish10

    snowish10 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,080

    Would you consider fluid from last season with a 150 hours on the plow since last your dirty oil to flush the whole system?
     
  8. dieselss

    dieselss PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 10,963

    Yep. Wouldn't even bad an eyelash at changing it. and dropping the res and inspecting the filter.
     
  9. snowish10

    snowish10 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,080

    Do I need to inspect anything else when the res is off and looking at the filter?
     
  10. dieselss

    dieselss PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 10,963

    No it's pretty much wide open. Look at bottom of the res as well, and clean the magnet
     
  11. mishnick

    mishnick 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,243

    A common problem for me has been finding sump screens sitting in the bottom of the reservoir. There is one pickup (white plastic) and one or two return strainers. They sometimes come loose and fall off, often a sign of thick oil, make sure they are in place and clean. Of course, as Dss said, inspect the magnet. Normally it will feel like it's covered with grease, that's normal. But feel the stuff that collected on the magnet and search for partials. If you can feel anything that is as large or larger than a small grain of sand it might be an indication of pump failure. A particle 1/4 the diameter of a human hair will take out your pump or plug a valve. I also like to pour the fluid into a glass jar and let it sit a while (only takes ten minutes) so I can see how much water collects in the bottom. Can't see any... that's a good sign, if you see more than a couple droplets you need to check your grey plastic vent cap to ensure the 5 psi pressure relief valve is not stuck open allowing the res to breath fresh air in and out. For old hands like Dss and myself it's pretty intuitive what to look for but I like to hear myself talk so that's what I tell people to look for.
     
  12. tony0713

    tony0713 Junior Member
    from pa
    Messages: 18

    drained my fluid the other night and thank god I decided to flush the rams because man that fluid was nasty. found my white pickup screen crushed a little and the black one was in the bottom of the resivour. one out of four screws snapped so I had to drill and re tap it. decided to replace my lift hose also because of rust, still waiting on that coming in. will update when I get it all finished.
     
  13. dieselss

    dieselss PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 10,963

    Good deal. Yea those small screws in that aluminum housing is always asking for trouble
     
  14. mishnick

    mishnick 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,243

    Use a bit of anti-seize when you put the screws back in so you never have to deal with broken screws again. Do the magnet check every fall (reservoir pull) then they for sure won't have a chance to seize up. The crushed white sump screen probably hit the magnet. Make sure when you put it back the magnet is in a spot that won't interfere.
     
  15. dieselss

    dieselss PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 10,963

    Or dielectric grease on the bolts.
    Antiseeze will dry up and cake causing the bolts to seize in the holes. Now there's no exact time that it'll happen, and no explanation as to why this one and not that one. I can say that it's happened to me to many times that I stopped using it all together. Just another option to try
     
  16. mishnick

    mishnick 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,243

    Interesting (DSS) that you find anti-seize causes problems?? After all it is purpose designed for this job. I have been using the copper-coat for many years and I thought the idea was that the fluid suspension was expected to dissipate leaving the copper paste barrier to prevent electrolysis and corrosion seizing. I especially put it on wheel nuts and years after, when I pull them again, I can still see the copper residue and find they come off like a dream. But that is steal on steal, perhaps with steal screws in aluminum housing this is not the case... I will have to look into that. In any case, even spitting on the threads would be better than nothing......
     
  17. dieselss

    dieselss PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 10,963

    I used to use it on brake caliper slides. Come to find out it actually locked up the slides. The oil dried out and left the paste and that caked and seized.
    Also in certain instances, it's conductive and that's a bad thing.
    So all in all I stopped using it. Not saying that people shouldn't, or can't. Just my .02 when I comes to antiseize. Also that stuff gets on everything you touch
     
  18. Whiffyspark

    Whiffyspark 2000 Club Member
    from SOMD
    Messages: 2,402

    I hate anti seize for the same reasons. Especially the getting on everything one. Pisses me off to no end so I don't use it anymore either

    I actually use this now

    http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000XBH9HI?pc_redir=1413455582&robot_redir=1

    It sounds/looks incredibly gay. But it's the best stuff I've used. I use it for spark plugs, bolts, grease to put ball joints in, etc.

    I use synethic caliper grease for slide pins
     
  19. dieselss

    dieselss PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 10,963

    It's super I bet!