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Pre DD 810 pump questions

Discussion in 'Blizzard Plows Discussion' started by beanz27, Nov 29, 2014.

  1. beanz27

    beanz27 Senior Member
    Messages: 984

    So I'm looking at buying two F350's from a guy a few hours from me. One's got a straight blade that I'll sell, the other has a Blizzard 810 that I'd like to try out first.

    That being said, the owner is the first and only owner of both trucks, and plows. He says that the blizzard goes up REALLY slow, he thinks it's the pump on it.

    How hard is it to change the pump? And how do I check it?

    I'll check the ground, fluid, etc. Probably change the filter and fluid also, but I'd rather check it before replacing it. Also, he told me $250 is what he found out to buy the pump. That price right? Seems low for a electric hydro pump.

    It'd be a 2001 I believe, any specific things to look for on these plows?
     
  2. beanz27

    beanz27 Senior Member
    Messages: 984

    No one has anything?
     
  3. bliz&hinikerDLR

    bliz&hinikerDLR Senior Member
    Messages: 471

    There should be a test port on the hydraulic manifold to test pump pressure. I don't know the exact number you are looking for but it should be above 1700psi when you dead head the pump by angling the plow all the way to the right.

    Changing pumps is pretty easy. It will give you chance to poke around in the reservoir and clean things out as well. Be careful not to damage the oil seal on the pump shaft.

    Your price sounds pretty accurate for a pump. There is likely only one part of the power unit you will have to replace. If it is the pump, you will need to know if you have the old "gold" motor with the splined pump shaft (as I believe you do) or if you have the newer flat pump shaft.

    Plow should have 4 hoses going to each wing. These older, more complex plows were less service friendly and had more moving parts/cylinders. They serve a good operator well. The cost a bad operator big bucks.

    List of things to look for is too long and year specific. See it run, use your judgement, and spend only what you are willing to gamble.
     
  4. lilweeds

    lilweeds PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,178

    Grab the serial numbers, it's much easier to tell you possible solutions. The blizzards are a bit slower, but the move better with a load on them.
     
  5. cl733

    cl733 Senior Member
    from Canada
    Messages: 252

    I have an 01 or 02 blade aswell ,If you have the splined pump ,then its most likely a KP-16 pump, I paid only about a hundred bones new, for mine and it was easy to change out, get the new shaft seal while you are at it, believe there is a thread about that pump here somewhere
     
  6. fastjohnny

    fastjohnny Senior Member
    Messages: 654

    While you are in there put in a faster pump. Change the pump motor to an extended duty as well. It's well worth it.
     
  7. cl733

    cl733 Senior Member
    from Canada
    Messages: 252

    I changed up to the bigger motor as well , think it was the 1789, it has a lot more power and would handle the bigger pump easily , not sure how much bigger a person would want to go, kp25, or , I see the kp20 and larger pumps shouldn't be run at over 4000 rpm, don't know what the 12v motor runs at
     
  8. fastjohnny

    fastjohnny Senior Member
    Messages: 654

    Stock is 2.47 IIRC. I've ran the KP30 for years with zero problems, just nice efficient hydraulics.

    The pumps are limited by psi, not rpm. The higher output, the lower the psi max.
     
  9. damian

    damian Senior Member
    Messages: 330

    add a ground to the motor to keep the motor from searching a ground thru the pump gears which is what wears them out.
     
  10. TJS

    TJS PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,346

    With all those KP numbers you are thowing around sounds like you are talking Fenner/SPX stone pumps. I have a Fenner and there is a great hydraulic store that has these pumps cheap(i have to find it). The stock fenners are 1.6cc/revolution. I upgraded to KP-3.1 cc/revolution. I also upgraded my motor to an HD one. However when upgrading to a higher volume pump they draw more on the electrical system. Again, I am just talking pump talk here not Blizzard plows. Pressure = force and Volume = speed. My old heavy diamond was always slow coming up to curbs. Now it is nice and fast and left and right is really fast. Upgrade the hoses to 3/8" also if you have the small 1/4" hoses as well. Get those at surplus center dot com.
     
  11. fastjohnny

    fastjohnny Senior Member
    Messages: 654

    A tip a day...Add redundant power supplies ...
     
  12. cl733

    cl733 Senior Member
    from Canada
    Messages: 252

    I might just have to try one of those kp30 pumps, I was just going thru my manual for my blade its a 2001-2002 manual , I bought the blade used with only about 3/4 of an inch wore off the cutting edge, so it hadn't been used that much, I had the solenoid stick on last winter and burn it up a bit, replaced it with the little bigger motor, and while I was at it did the pump just because, I measured the pump in it and it came up as a kp16, 1.6cc/rev , in my book it says the pump should have been a 2.1cc/rev, I see also in my manual that my lift cylinder is a 3x4 5/8 , the newer blades use a 3 1/2 x 4 5/8, wonder if I could just put in the bigger lift cylinder , would it fit in the frame, im thinking it should, anyone try it , that would still give me a faster lift with less strain on the motor , and way fast angle , wing movements
     
  13. fastjohnny

    fastjohnny Senior Member
    Messages: 654

    It will fit and it will work well.
     
  14. TJS

    TJS PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,346

    The larger bore the cylinder the slower it will move given the same pump output. If you want speed keep the same cylinder you have and put a kp-3.1 in it.
     
  15. cl733

    cl733 Senior Member
    from Canada
    Messages: 252

    I did pick up the bigger lift cylinder and while re hosing my blade tried to put the cylinder in but it wont physically fit inside the a frame the way the iron wraps around to the bottom of the a frame prevents in from fitting inside , also noticed the a frame is constructed of a lot heavier iron than the newer PH1 8100 blades we use also, ill have to look at it again and see if some trimming would solve or should one just leave it alone my book says its a 2001-2002 blade wtf
     
  16. chazg33

    chazg33 Member
    Messages: 97

    we run the bigger lift cyl had to trim up the opening in the frame a little to fit in, but works great