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Plowing heavy slush

Discussion in 'Commercial Snow Removal' started by Remsen1, Jan 31, 2001.

  1. Remsen1

    Remsen1 Senior Member
    Messages: 188

    Are there any tricks for plowing heavy slushy snow. We've been experiencing a thaw which caused the based snow to turn into slush (my residentials are not paved, so I do not salt or sand drives to expose bare ground). Making the first pass was very difficult no matter what I tried (full angle, partial angle, no angle). Floating the plow or using the plow shoes was not an option because I was only plowing 1"-1.5" and if I floated the plow or used the shoes, I wouldn't be plowing anything. I loaded the box of my truck with this heavy wet snow and this did help improve traction. I'm afraid I was beating the hell out of my plow. I imagine that a v-plow would really excell under these conditions.

    Any tips? Or do I just have to deal with it the best that I can? Needless to say, I will not be accepting any callup work for this type of snow. (can't really even call it snow)
     
  2. John DiMartino

    John DiMartino PlowSite.com Veteran
    Messages: 2,154

    Maybe its time to try a uerathane cutting edge.Dino will hook you up with one.I need some snow now to try mine.
     
  3. Plowboy

    Plowboy Member
    Messages: 34

    WHat exactly wwas the problem, traction, or scraping action, or was it the plow tripping too easy???

    I jsut tighten the trip springs up a couple turns when dealing with this kind of a mess to keep the plow from always running about half tripped, in snow it is never a problem, an I have never had traction problems, In tough condition, I use 4 low to avoid overheating the trann, and it also gives you more control in tight quarters.
     
  4. Deere John

    Deere John Senior Member
    Messages: 410

    Despite all the discussion here about how poorly a Boss plow trips, it is that same characteristic that makes them excell at cutting loosened hardpack. The plow stays put and cuts really well.

    I feel a steel edge is also an advantage for this particular job, because you want to minimize the contact area in order to cut more.
     
  5. Remsen1

    Remsen1 Senior Member
    Messages: 188

    With this type of "snow" (can't really call it snow) all the weaknesses seem to show up at once. The problem is making that first pass. At first, my main problem was traction. Each time I tried to push the snow with the blade angled, my truck would slide to the side. When I decrease the angle or went to no angle I would go a little further and then spin. At this point I loaded the bed of the truck with snow, this increased my traction and got me a little further. Now my main problem is blade tripping and at times I would still catch an edge and slide. This usually only occurred on the first pass. After I was able to get through once, I was fine.

    I've already tightened the springs, near to the end of the adjustable range. Maybe the springs are shot? I think it is just the extreme conditions though. I am 99% convinced that a V-plow would have significantly less difficulty making the first pass. The design would break through the crust like a wedge and would put an equal amount of resistance on both side of the truck so it wouldn't slide off to one side. I want to hear from some of you guys who have switched to v-plows to hear if I am correct.
     
  6. greenquestlawn

    greenquestlawn Senior Member
    Messages: 157

    You are correct in the v position you dont slide. but depending on the amount of hard-pack it still may cause problems on the next passes. I dont know if you get enough snow to justify a back-blade but they are great. they have down pressure so over time (scraping every time plowing) the hard pack never builds up. Heres a pic of mine if you want to see




    http://greenquest.net/photo_page.html
     
  7. Eric ELM

    Eric ELM Husband, Father, Friend, Mentor, Angel
    from Chicago
    Messages: 239

    Nice set up you have there. Looks nice.
     
  8. DanG

    DanG Senior Member
    Messages: 240

    Nice truck,
    That looks like a daniels back blade.
    same as on my one truck except for the color.

    Dan
     
  9. Deere John

    Deere John Senior Member
    Messages: 410

    Remsen - I don't remember reading what type blade you have, but you should have at least 3 springs on a 7.5 footer. Eight footers need 4. I have seen up to six, but I would not want to be in the truck when that setup recoiled - you'd want to hide under the dash.


    Be carefull cranking on the 5/8" adjusting bolts. Overtightening them will not do much to increase trip resistance, but you risk over-stretching the springs because you preload too much stretch in initially. Add more springs.

    Yes vee-plows are better, but it is still hard work. Loaders work the best.
     
  10. Remsen1

    Remsen1 Senior Member
    Messages: 188

    Greequestlawn,

    We get plenty of snow every winter. We've had 15 plowable snows so far. I think the backblade would be feasible. I never saw one of these in action. Do you drop it when you back out? Is the down pressure enough to decrease rear traction? does it scrape up gravel? sod?
     
  11. Remsen1

    Remsen1 Senior Member
    Messages: 188

    Deer John, I have a 7.5 Meyers w/ 3 springs. I tightened them according to a previous post "enough to slip a business card between the coils". I wasn't going to tighten them more, I was worried about stretching them as you indicated, but could they just be tired springs? How could I add another.

    I'm beginning to think that part of my problem is because this is a meyers plow (lighter than other brands), I wasn't scraping enough each time, then we get a thaw and viola! problems!
     
  12. greenquestlawn

    greenquestlawn Senior Member
    Messages: 157

    Remsen1,

    The backblade is used to scoop as your going forward 1.It can be used with the front as you go across a lot this scrapes whatever is left by the front (if any). Also if you have ever had to move snow from one end to the other a backblade will cut this time ALOT especially if your using a straight blade.
    2.when you back into a drive drop the blade in front of the garage and pull out mine scrapes down to pavement regardless of the snow.
    Depending on the amount of down pressure yes it can reduce traction, but that also depends on the weight of the snow.Its really never a problem though. As far as gravel and sod i have scraped some gravel but not much although its strong i worry about repairs. the back blades that mount to the reese hitch (im told) are not as strong. this one is mounted to a fabricated bumper that surrounds the hitch for added strength it was built by a trucking supply company its not a pre-built blade, they customize thers to each truck being that every make & model sits different. If you would like to see a close up pic of it let me know.
     
  13. Deere John

    Deere John Senior Member
    Messages: 410

    Remsen - as much as there is not alot of praise here for Meyer plows, I have found that they do scrap and backblade well - probably better than my Bosses. The cutting edge angle, when the mouldboard is properly cambered, is favourable to both jobs. Durability is their downfall. I did start with a ST-90 in 1981. We added a third spring and replaced the other two.

    My longwinded suggestion is to replace the three old springs with new. I don't know if other Brand's would have heavier springs (ie, Western, Boss), but that may be an idear. You know how to adjust them correctly - springs are not expensive - update and try again.

    To add a forth, a welding shop would cobble you a lower mount for not much, and me thinks you just have to drill a 5/8 hole on the top to add the bolt.