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plow sticking to the left

Discussion in 'Commercial Snow Removal' started by RICHIE K, Mar 11, 2005.

  1. RICHIE K

    RICHIE K Member
    from NJ
    Messages: 35

    HAVE A ? FOR YOU ALL I HAVE A 4X4 S-10 WITH A 6.5 MEYERS PLOW ON IT WITH A E-47 PUMP. ONCE AND A WHILE WHEN PLOWING WITH IT ANGELED LEFT IT WILL GET STUCK IT THAT POSITION. THE ONLY WAY I CAN FREE IT IS TO DISCONNECT THE HOSE AND RELEASE THE PRESSURE, THEN IT WORKS FINE, WHAT DOES THIS MEAN ?????????? :confused:


    RICHIE K

    www.kulakandcompany.com :redbounce
     
  2. Clapper&Company

    Clapper&Company PlowSite Veteran
    from NE OHIO
    Messages: 4,413

    when it gets stuck dose it move up & down ? or dose it just go down intill you unhook the hose?

    Check your fuild level.

    My 7.5 E60 did the same thing, i'm going to say its one of your coils, check Angelo's trouble shooting.
     
  3. JMR

    JMR Senior Member
    Messages: 567

    I chased a similar problem, replaced coils and valves with no luck(fortunately I have spares), turned out being bad couplers. :D
     
  4. ght1098

    ght1098 Member
    Messages: 86

    Same thing on mine, bad couplers
     
  5. Runner

    Runner Senior Member
    Messages: 957

    It can also have contaminants in the fluid. Eventually, what happens, is the fluid gets material in it that keeps it from moving freely. I just went through this with my plow as a matter of fact, and have done several others. Over time, as the cylinder rams move in and out, they scrape metal off of the inside of the ram. This metal builds up and then causes clogging. Mine got to the point that it wouldn't even move. Before, I could just kick the stick back and forth, and it would free up. Sometimes, when I dropped the plow down to the ground, or just let it sit, it would free up. This is because the contaminants would settle back to the bottom and away from the coupling. Now, this metal is not like shillings,..it's like a very fine gunpowder that can't even be seen in the fluid. The problem is, is that just changing the fluid and filter is not a total fix. As a matter of fact, it is a waste of time and fluid. To do it right, the pump must be disassembled, flushed and cleaned, the rams have to be taken apart and cleaned THOROUGHLY. This means that they need to be sprayed with brakeparts cleaner and blown out a FEW times. Any rubber and/or nylon seals need to be cleaned thoroughly or replaced. Any cork seals just need to be replaced...there is no cleaning these because the metal imbeds itself. Hoses must be flushed. At this time, it sure doesn't hurt to replace the couplers. I know this seems like alot of work (it takes us about 4 hours worth), but to do it right, this is what takes place. I also had a ram go bad, and didn't have the time to rebuild it then (we had snow coming), so I just bought a new ram. I have to rebuild the old ram now, so I'll have a good extra one around the shop in case someone needs it in an emergency.
    I hope this info helps, and like someone else said,..it could just be coupler failure. I hope it's that simple...try that first.
     
  6. RICHIE K

    RICHIE K Member
    from NJ
    Messages: 35

  7. Crash935

    Crash935 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,377

    Before you tear everything apart, try putting a 1/2 or 3/4 inch spacer on the stop where the sector ring meets the a-frame. Sometimes parts are worn enough that they are traveling farther than they should and are bottoming out the cylinder and locking up.
     
  8. Robhollar

    Robhollar Senior Member
    Messages: 766

    I'd bet you have a bad coupler...Rob
     
  9. home rescue

    home rescue Member
    from wv
    Messages: 94

    Had the same problem last week, spent about two hours chasin and replacin parts come to find out it was a bad coupler. Had to keep hitting my angle switch till the blade hit dead center then everything worked great, back to the left and didn,t want to return. 12.00 dollar fix.