1. Welcome to PlowSite. Notice a fresh look and new features? It’s now easier to share photos and videos, find popular topics fast, and enjoy expanded user profiles. If you have any questions, click HELP at the top or bottom of any page, or send an email to help@plowsite.com. We welcome your feedback.

    Dismiss Notice

Plow Light Riser and Spreader Project

Discussion in 'Equipment, Tools & Vehicle Pictures' started by TJS, Nov 23, 2012.

  1. TJS

    TJS PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,345

    My plow lights were a little low and I wanted them wider. So I made up a set of risers. Not just any old risers though. These will bolt onto the existing light tower and if I ever want to remove them I can and then utilize the factory holes. The only mod I have to do is drill two more holes.
    Started with 2" x 1/8" wall square tube. Mocked them up so then sit in the center on the light tower. Fisher offsets the factory holes a little forward so I had to compensate for that. Used the digital readout so everything is the same and my holes line up. Turn down the hex on the nuts so they were not so big (LOL). TIG welded the nuts and I will grind the weld off smooth. Made up some 3/8" thick mounting pads for the lights. I will be cutting the end of the tube where the light mounts at an angle so I can get a socket in there. More to come soon. Almost finished.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  2. TJS

    TJS PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,345

    More pics. Nuts welded in and mounting pads made. More to come soon.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  3. IA Farmer

    IA Farmer Senior Member
    Messages: 410

    Nice welding, looks good. Are you reuseing the old lights? Post pics of the finshed product.
     
  4. Stik208

    Stik208 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,316

    Birdseed is one of a hell of a teacher, look at those welds.
     
  5. TJS

    TJS PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,345

    You are joking, right .
     
  6. Morrissey snow removal

    Morrissey snow removal PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,799

    im sure it will look great all of ur stuff does
     
  7. 2006Sierra1500

    2006Sierra1500 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,758

    Should do 2 stud and go to intensifires
     
  8. Stik208

    Stik208 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,316

    I was under the impression he taught you everything you knew....:laughing:
     
  9. Holland

    Holland Senior Member
    Messages: 605

    O man dont even kid about that!!!!

    btw, nice sig! Thumbs Up
     
  10. TJS

    TJS PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,345

    I want to thank Birdseed for giving me great advice on my technique, hahaha. Project came out just as I wanted it to.I had to make the harness a little longer as well. Hooked everything up and aligned the lights. Final pics.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  11. TJS

    TJS PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,345

    Painted. .

    [​IMG]
     
  12. Morrissey snow removal

    Morrissey snow removal PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,799

    came out great nice job!!!! i had to make my lights taller and widder on my fisher aswell. do u do fab work for a living?
     
  13. TJS

    TJS PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,345

    Nope. I work in the Corp. world and have a full shop at my house. I do some side work though. I really want to start a shop, but not in this economy.
     
  14. ducaticorse

    ducaticorse PlowSite.com Addict
    from we
    Messages: 1,426

    All in all, beut welds... Now tell us all how much that would have cost us layman for you to do that for us an for you to make it profitable..... What, $400 with stock?
     
  15. BUFF

    BUFF PlowSite Fanatic
    from FR NoCo
    Messages: 7,319

    Looks like your 1-2-3 blocks have seen some heat:eek: I have a old set I use the same way.Thumbs Up

    Nice work.....as always.
     
  16. Morrissey snow removal

    Morrissey snow removal PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,799

    with that kind of work u would do great but then again some people would want something done alot cheaper and half the quality, great job on this and all your other projects
     
  17. TJS

    TJS PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,345

    If I were to do these again it would take me not long at all as I designed as I went with the first set. TIG welding and all. There are people out there who do pay for custom work like this. I just modified a tractor plow set up for someone who went to several places and nobody would take his money. I did.
     
  18. ducaticorse

    ducaticorse PlowSite.com Addict
    from we
    Messages: 1,426

    My GF's dad is the 1st selectmen of Ridgefield.... I'd pay reasonable prices, so would many others.. Your welds look tight.
     
    Last edited: Nov 26, 2012
  19. jasonv

    jasonv PlowSite.com Addict
    from kannada
    Messages: 1,114

    Beautiful work, but may be a bit overboard.

    For others looking to do something like this, you can get the same results with a lot less work by cutting a few corners. I'm talking to you ducaticorse.

    Tools you need;
    - Tape measure,
    - Grinder with cutoff wheel, OR sawzall with metal cutting blade and a FLAT FILE, OR if you really want to be a redneck metal worker, skilsaw with a 7" abrasive metal cutting blade. You could even do with just a hacksaw and a file.
    - Drill with an assortment of bits.
    - Box wrenches.
    - Optionally RIVNUTS and install tool.

    Now what OP did with welding the nut into the square pipe. You could do with rivnuts, OR you could do with a LOOSE nut and a long wrench, OR you can buy nuts that have a little piece of metal on the head, not sure what they're called, but you put the nut down the tube, get the bolt started a bit, and the little piece of metal on the head will keep it from turning in the tube.... OR, you could drill all the way through the square pipe and drop a bolt full way through.

    Redneck way to line up the holes is to use c-clamps to hold the piece of metal in place, and drill through the existing holes with a regular hand held drill. Its nice to do things the mathematical way, but sometimes its easier and just as effective to redneck your way through.

    What OP did welding the light base onto the square pipe... really not necessary since the bolt will hold it in place.

    Now don't get me wrong, what the OP did is beautiful work, but reality is that it is a bit overboard if the result was just the functional final product, he surely went to such extremes because he ENJOYS it (and I ABSOLUTELY appreciate that motivation).


    Now myself, I had to do the same type of modification to my Arctic plow. Stupid kit came with light antlers that would position the plow lights BELOW the truck lights. No alternatives available. So to the scrap yard I went, with a $5 bill, and came home with a twisted piece of 3/8" x 2" flat bar and $1 left over. With a sledge hammer, two bricks, a pipe wrench, and a vise, the twisted piece of scrap turned into a nice 8 foot piece of flat bar, not even much rust on it -- more or less brand new, just twisted.

    With something similar to this;
    http://www.princessauto.com/pal/product/8000447/Metal-Benders/Universal-Metal-Bender
    (mine is actually a better unit than that one, but they don't seem to sell it any more)
    I bent the flat bar into a configuration that would take the original light antlers and move them 11 inches up and 4 inches out from their original position. I don't have an actual photograph of it, just initial drawing of the plan -- not to scale. The red part in the picture.

    So $4, a bit of work (fun), primer, paint, and 4 bolts, objective achieved.

    plow light.jpg
     
    Last edited: Nov 27, 2012
  20. TJS

    TJS PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,345

    Jansonv,
    I do appreciate your redneck creativity. However, I would have went to my local steel supplier which I have used for years with 20 bucks in my hand and came home with the same material you have (new straight, and rust free by the way) and stopped for a burger on the way home with the remainder of the 20 bucks. After eating the burger and taking my time while you are still beating the flat bar into shape with the sledge hammer, brick (really?) and pipe wrench I am still ahead of the game when I get home. Nice straight piece of material. Plus I never really have seen a Chicom bender come close to bending 3/8” thick flat bar. I would have bent it in my home made bender that is stout.

    Ok. Onto the next subject: you wonder why I welded the light pad to the square tube; I did a full weld on this because I hate water/salt/chemical intrusion where I can prevent it. I made sure I had no anomalies in my welds for this. Plus it looks cleaner.

    The fabrication I perform might be overkill; however I never have problems with something I made for me or a customer. Plus, I could not even do a poor job if I forced myself to. Also, I try and make my work look as professional as possible. Who knows it maybe a selling point later on.

    As far as making a profit that was brought up by someone else: My posts here are not spam, they are mostly for entertainment and are primarily one off projects that give that different look to my stuff as well as give people here some ideas. However, the difference between my equipment and your redneck equipment is that I am production ready if I ever have to make something again and again. Yes it would take me longer to do the first one or two and may take some time to make jigs and such, but while you are still cutting your un-square steel with a cut-off wheel, and drilling holes with a hand drill. I am already at or beyond the next stages closer to completion.

    Here are the major tools I have used for this project and by the way they have all paid for themselves over and over as well:
    -Horizontal Band Saw with Hydraulic feed rate and auto stop.
    -Bridgeport Milling Machine with DRO with abundant of cutting tools.
    -SouthBend Lathe and cutting tools.
    - Bench Sanding belt set up, removing sharp edges. Faster than a file.
    - Miller Dynasty 300 DX TIG welder and Bernard Water Cooled torch and consumables.