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Plow installation, couple of question.

Discussion in 'SnowDogg Snow Plows' started by White Gardens, Dec 10, 2012.

  1. White Gardens

    White Gardens 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,665

    Started working on installing my 7.5 hd plow on my f-150.

    Got the main power harness installed along with the plow solenoid, so the main power system is in place.

    1st question. Where is the best place to install the power wire for the controller? I was thinking of hooking it directly to the battery considering there is already a fuse in the power wire. This would be the easiest as then I wouldn't have to fish the wire behind the dash to the other side of the cab where the fuse box is located. Is there any issues with doing it this way?

    2nd question. I started to install the light harnesses. I was able to get the passenger side done as I took the light out to reach in and install the play solenoid. I went to turn on my lights and the headlight on that side didn't work. Now I'm guess that because the lighting system isn't completely installed that the headlight isn't going to work until it's done. Is this correct?

    3rd question. Now, the last thing I plan on doing is installing the mount. I was looking today and realized that there is no room to insert the bolts through the frame tube because of the bumper. Now, there is a 1" trim piece on the bottom of the bumper. With that removed I might just have enough room. Would this work, or am I better off just removing the bumper.


    Thanks.

    Nick.




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  2. plowguy43

    plowguy43 PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 5,269

    Easiest way is finding a switched fuse in your fuse box and tapping it. Key on, plow on, key off, plow off so no battery drain or excess wires hanging around.


    Install the harness completely, tap the signal wires and double check connections- then go ahead and turn it on.

    Definitely remove the bumper, the extra 20 minutes to do it will save you a ton of aggrivation.
     
  3. White Gardens

    White Gardens 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,665

    Didn't think about the key on/off draw. Did pick up a fuse tap today to install it into the fuse box.

    Haven't gotten to the harness yet. Decided to work on the mount today. Did end up partially removing the bumper, and yes, it would have been a struggle otherwise.

    Only issue I have now (besides finishing the light harness) is the rear support bracket for the plow mount. No where in the instructions did it mention having to drill holes for this bracket and I've got what I believe is either the oil or trans cooler there. Not horribly in the way, but I need to double check to make sure I've got the right bracket before drilling any holes.


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  4. John143

    John143 Senior Member
    from NEPA PA
    Messages: 254

    I did 2 ram 2500's a month or so ago. We put the 8ft HD 's on them. both mounts required drilling of the truck frame. I think like 2 holes at the front bumper was all the lined up. As for the power in the cab. I found a real easy way.... Pull out your cigarette lighter out and tap the blue wire on one of the two wires on the back of the lighter. The lighter is controlled with your key. I found it easier then trying to plug something in the side of a fuse. Don't bother reading them instructions! Or looking at the pic's! Search youtube!! I found a couple good install vid's..

    Good luck!
     
  5. White Gardens

    White Gardens 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,665

    Mount is in and all wiring except for the controller wire. Plow should go on in the next couple of days as I'm wrapping up a few odds and ends landscaping wise for the season.

    Can't do the cigarette lighter in my truck as it functions with the key off. It doesn't really matter though as it's has to go behind the dash anyway to get to the fuse block. I bought a fuse tap the other day, so it should go easy.

    My only other option is to re-route the controller wire through the fire-wall on the passenger side, but there is no existing hole over there. The drivers side already had a hole and grommet ready to go. That and the blower box and other crud is in the way on the passenger side.

    As for the mount, I did also have to drill two holes in each bracket on the frame. Not sure if your plows had the rear "A" frame brace like mine that attaches to the cross bar mount and attaches to the truck cross member under the motor. That "A" frame I had to drill two holes for, and went easier than I expected.

    The biggest problem with the mount was aligning the "A" brace with the mount bar. The holes were about 1/4"-1/2" off and I had to do some finagling to get them to line up.

    Over all, besides being short about 7 bolts in the kit, the installation has gone smoothly. Probably could have done it faster, but I've taken my time to do it cleanly and right the first time.




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    Last edited: Dec 12, 2012
  6. John143

    John143 Senior Member
    from NEPA PA
    Messages: 254

    That's funny! I was short 7 bolts myself! In-fact they didn't give me enough long bolts for the frame and I was short a couple of the small bolts for the front mount that can be removed in the summer months. If you didn't get the bolts already. Lowe's has the grade 8 in-stock. A little pricey though.

    Glad your almost up in running!! Thumbs Up
     
  7. White Gardens

    White Gardens 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,665

    Farm and Fleet had them. Get them by the pound. Lowes is ungodly when it comes to bolt prices. Might have spent 5 bucks on them and I grabbed about 5 extra for other projects along with some washers and lock washers.

    Not sure if you have a Farm and Fleet there, but also try Tractor Supply if you've got one. That or just any good hardware store.

    One thing I was truly happy about is all the bolts were welded to rods for ease of installation. Not sure if all other plow companies do the same thing, but I was sure impressed.


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    Last edited: Dec 12, 2012
  8. White Gardens

    White Gardens 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,665

    One more question for anyone who might have the answer.

    Is there supposed to be a bracket to hold the controller plug inside the cab? I didn't get one if there is and I noticed that there is some clips on the plug, so I assume that there is a bracket to hold it.

    If there isn't one from buyers, does anyone know of a bracket?


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  9. John143

    John143 Senior Member
    from NEPA PA
    Messages: 254

    The only bracket that came with ours was to hold the hand held controller. Im guessing your talking about the plug under the dash? There is not bracket made to hold the plug in place. We always uses a couple black zip ties. In fact that's that way our local dealer installs them.
     
  10. White Gardens

    White Gardens 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,665

    That sucks. I might have to do some modifications and see if there is enough clearance to put it through the dash underneath somewhere so it's more of a solid mount. That or come up with my own bracket of sorts.


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  11. John143

    John143 Senior Member
    from NEPA PA
    Messages: 254

    Get some roofing flashing and a break. You can make a real nice bracket and even shoot it with a rattle can.
     
  12. ggb6259

    ggb6259 Senior Member
    from SW MI
    Messages: 214

    No special brackets for the plugs or wiring but your controller should have a bracket that it fits into.
    Mine is chromed and fits the notches on the back of the controller. I fabbed an arm out of flat stock and bent it such that it was sitting where I could use it with my center arm rest down.. Worked well.

    gb
     
  13. White Gardens

    White Gardens 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,665

    I'm still thinking of trying to make a holding bracket for it. I don't like the idea of having any tension on the plug with the controller wire connected to it.. That and zip ties will only go so far.

    I've got some roof flashing, but what I might do is notch out the dash underweight to fit the plug through and use some flashing as extra support either behind the dash or on the surface.

    I was able to mount the controller bracket on the dash itself and I can actually still comfortably touch the buttons when resting my arm on the center fold down console, so that worked out well.

    As for the ergonomics of the controller, I'm not the happiest with the design. If your trying to hold it and use it, it just feels too big in your hand. That and the buttons are huge.

    All in all, what sucks is I won't be driving this truck in a storm. :cry: I still need to drive my big truck for the commercial lots and I need to be the one in charge of the salt applications.


    Got the plow side finished today and mounted to the truck. As for the over-all design of the plow, I'm more than happy with it. Seems stout over-all and I especially like the grease zerks and grease points on the plow. I also like the rod that holds the headgear after dismounting the plow along with the adjustable jack.

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    Last edited: Dec 14, 2012
  14. plowguy43

    plowguy43 PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 5,269

    I love the jack, makes mount/dismount very easy IMO.

    As for the controller, I lay it in my lap and push the buttons that way. Pretty easy once you get a feel for it, mine also requires two buttons at times to be pushed so the lap makes it easier